clutch slipping?SOLUTION!!!-CHECK THIS OUT!!!!

[Greg Cothern]

I concur, drain the oil, all of the oil as much as possible, then fill with appropriate oil and see if there is a change.

[Lurkin]

Bob, I had close to the same situation on my 01 when I bought it about a year and a half ago.  It was in great condition, a bit less then 8K miles, but after I bought it and was riding around I noticed clutch slip on high rpm shift-and-go's, not steady state get-on-it's though.  After checking the clutch play, and changing the oil (a couple times just to be sure), the clutch was still slipping.

If I recall my research correctly, you'll pay:

o about $70 for stock formulation friction plates only
o about $110 for stock formulation friction plates, new steel plates, springs
o about $160 for Kevlar friction plates, new steel plates, HD springs

The Kevlar kit is the one DD sells.

I went ahead and got the Kevlar kit, as I didn't want to play with ensuring that the original steel plates were good, and I didn't want to have the bike waiting for parts if the plates were bad.

I am very happy with the Kevlar kit.  I didn't even notice the HD springs on the lever pull, some have said they noticed, but I didn't.  Clutch engagement is good, and does not "bite" too hard or quick.  I was initially concerned that the springs and/or the engagement might be bothersome for cruise-mode riding, but there is no cause for that concern.

Rod...

[rjb/AKA Bob Barram]

Thanks, Rod, I guess that is confirmation that it can happen, I am just surprised because both of my previous Magna's were used and I never had a clutch  problem until after 50,000 miles with one of them.
Thanks also for the expense lay out for the replacement, I know Chris L. did the kevlar and I think I will go that route.
I am wondering if it is even worth the oil change until then.
Bob

[Lurkin]

I was also a bit peeved at having to change it out out less then 10K, but you never know what a previous owner actually did...  But I may also have one of the rogue PITA Magna's, as I have a strange front wheel whine at around 50mph, an occasional grinding when starting, along with the bad clutch.

You might want to try the oil change as "usually" a bad clutch is first seen as slippage on high power take-offs.  With your's, the slippage during street speed roll-on may just be it working through some moly in a previous oil change.

In one of my starter trouble-shooting steps, I changed from M1 EP 15W-50 to Rotella (dino) 10W-40, just to see if that was the problem.  The dino Rotella is only $10/4 qts., and I figured if it didn't fix the problem I was having (which it didn't), then I'd just switch it back after 1-2K.  $10 was actually the cheapest trouble-shooting step that I've taken

Also, when you do change the clutch (and it is very easy), check the MOOT or MRA Tips site.  One of them has a clutch write-up that notes a couple of the things to watch out for (popping the engine cover off, reduction gear pin/washer, holding the clutch basket to remove the bolt...)

[rjb/AKA Bob Barram]

Thanks for the advice, Rod, sounds good.
I just can't believe someone could wreck a clutch in 3K miles.
Maybe there are other things that happened but the bike looks as good a 3K miles.
Bob

[Lurkin]

We're definitely following the same thought pattern here.

What I forgot to mention was when I did replace my clutch plates, both the steel and friction plates looks good.  The steel  was not warped, discolored, or worn funny, and the friction plates still looked like they had life left.

At that point I just figured that the PO was using car oil, and the plates were permanently moly'd......

[rjb/AKA Bob Barram]

Well, I went to my favorite metric shop in Frisco, CycleConcepts, to buy the oil and  bounced the question of my clutch problem off James. He went out and looked at the tension of the clutch lever and said it was too tight, there should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch play at the lever. He set it for me and I drove off with the oil, anxious to try it, AND.....
IT WORKED!!!!!!!!! Boy, am I a happy camper!!!!!
I had made that change when I bought the bike and had done the same thing to my other Magna and the problem had started, never thought it was related.
Bob

[Magnum Magna]

That is great I am glad you have a full Magna back.

Happy Trails to You.

[roboto65]

Thats great news Bob glad you got it fixed

[Gloveberg]

I think we all (myself included) deserved a punch in the head for never asking the most obvious question, "Have you adjusted the lever?"

Doh!!!

[roboto65]

Well it may not be the clutch could very well be oil ,springs or the clutch that pretty much covers it unless it is out of adjustment but I think you got that already !!!

Yeah well I was close hehehehe just glad Bob fixed just kinda show that it is the little things that get Ya !!!!

[Greg Cothern]

I agree Jimmy, I briefly thought about it, but tossed it since he mentioned he could take off hard in lower gears and not get the slip.
Guess it was just enough engages to slip with less torque, but the clutch grabbed with greater torque.

[antman]

The only types of riding that I know to make a cluctch go bad are: extended amounts of time slipping the clutch or high RPM drops during launches.  

The cluctch is a wet clutch but you can still burn them up if you slip it alot.  With only 3000 miles I would not imagine that either of these would be the case.  

Oil, clutch adjustment, or bad clutch plates seem likely to me.  

Good luck