Apparent Regulator Failures

[TLRam1]

Yes that is a Honda dealer and OEM. I tried to access their website, not working at the moment. I've sent a few others their to purchase the regulator.

[lragan]

Lawrence, I wished we could have tested mine at MOOTmag6.  I would have been willing to let you "dissect" it. 

Lance, it took a while to sort through what was going on.  I did not have test gear with me at MOOTMAG, in fact did not buy the temperature measuring equipment until I returned home.

And no dissection is necessary -- I don't even loosen any nuts or bolts.  The probe clamps to the heat sink fins with a heavy paper clamp and a couple of tie wraps keep the wire going up to the meter (in a tank bag) in place.  When I am done, I clip the tie wraps off and you are back to original condition.

[Sledge Hammer]

What if the redesign (assuming there is one) is just designed to handle more heat and not necessarily run cooler?

The two goals are really something of a set of Siamese twins: since the nature of the materials establish the limits of just how hot the electronics can get internally before they fail -- and most power semiconductors have pretty much the same maximum internal temperatures -- the only way to being able to get them to handle more heat is to make sure they run cooler, either by making them more efficient or by sucking the heat out as fast as you can.

I still think Lawrence's idea of a scoop to duct air up across the regulator is a great idea, but like he said, making it work so the air actually flows the way you want might take some doing. Is there a fluid flow dynamics engineer in the house? 

[bigdaddysnake361]

Hey guys n gals good news the manuf. of the R/R does have a one yr. warrenty. I called DK and they said mail it in. Cool beans yeah! I'm a bit relieved. Not looking forward to a long wait to get one back tho. or the wk involved. But hey I wanted a warrenty and I got one, be happy huh! Later, I'll keep ya'll posted.

[Charles S Otwell]

"I'm a bit relieved"

How do you spell relief ?---w a r r a n t y .

[TLRam1]

Yes that is a Honda dealer and OEM. I tried to access their website, not working at the moment. I've sent a few others their to purchase the regulator.

They changed their website as I called to see if they were still in business. They told me nothing would change but the price did go up from 140.00 to 170.00. I emailed and they did not respond, enough of that.

I did locate another Honda dealer who had a better deal at 133.00 for the OEM regulator and another dealer at 141.00 plus shipping which I wouldn't think would be more than 10 dollars. If anyone has a need before Len's R/R is complete or prefers a OEM let me know and I will check them again and send you the info.   

[hootmon]

I've been semi-following this post.. I have a '94 Magna and replaced my Regulator 40K miles ago and it went bad again..(Not too bad). The 1st regulator overcharged the battery, the second stopped charging.
I just ordered a Regulator from RegulatorRectifier.com. They claim a redesigned regulator that is more reliable and has an 8% boost in power output and is about $115. Here is the link to the regulator
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1994-2003-honda-vf750c-magna-regulator-rectifier-p-782.html?osCsid=5e072961f5039e81a16c5954662e81fc. It comes with a 6 month Warranty.
I am also relocating my Regulator to just behind the right side cover (Hopefully improved cooling). I will attempt to send a picture when the project is done.

Hootmon Harry



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[TLRam1]

When you replaced your regulator the first time did you use OEM? What year did you do that in?

[hootmon]

When I purchased the '94, the Regulator was bad (Over charging) the bike indicated about 10K miles, but the speedometer cable was broke, so the bike probably had at least another 5K on it. I replaced the regulator with one from Old Bike Barn. That was ~3.5 years ago. The bike now has 50K on the odometer (I obviously fixed the speedo cable) and the regulator just dead (no voltage output).

[Indonlire]

Okay, Here's my update:

I contacted Wild West Honda who had the R/R for $230.00, I thought that was a little steep and decided to try to find a used one.  I finally found a motorcycle salvage yard in Houston (I could only find one) and the guy there said I would have to bring in the old part so he could match it up.  Work and family commitments conspired against me for quite a while until I finally had a Saturday off where I could go to the salvage yard.

Once there, I showed the guy the part and he disappeared into the black hole behind the counter and finally reappeared with a similar part. He told me It would need to be rewired to match the wiring on my original part and that the guy working on my bike would know how to do it.  So I, sweetly as possible, told the guy I was working on my bike and we had a brief discussion about sexism and mechanics.  So I paid the guy $75.00 and left with the part confident in my ability to put my bike back together and laughing that that guy won't assume anything the next time a woman walks into his shop looking for a part for HER motorcycle. 

After carefully comparing both R/R's I decided they were both wired the same, just with different colored wires.  Checked all my fuses, none were bad, but I replaced the main fuse because I didn't like the reading I got from it.  Charged my battery ( I replaced the one that was overheated).  Well it's been hot and more family commitments ... I finally made the time and put everything back together.  "Serenity" started up just fine and we went for a ride around the block. 

I start riding to and from work on her tomorrow.  So hopefully my problem is solved for now.  I do plan to go ahead and purchase a new one to have on hand if this should happen again – since I put a used one back on.   Been watching the thread but didn't have anything to add.

Felicia

[ronmag]

 After the R/R problems at mootmag 6, I am thinking about putting a voltage gauge on my Y2K magna
just to keep an eye on things. Kuryakyn has one that will mount on the bars, but it is an LED unit.
Dakota Digital also has one that mounts on the bars, but it is 160$ out of my price range.
Ronmag

[Curtis_Valk]

I am thinking about putting a voltage gauge on my Y2K magna
just to keep an eye on things.

I'm using a single LED battery monitor from Electrical Connection: http://www.electricalconnection.com/meters_indicators/04101.htm

The electronics would need to be tucked away inside the headlight nacelle or a dedicated enclosure fabricated since most Magnas don't have a fairing.  They used to have a surface mount model with it's own enclosure but I don't see it now.  I leave mine "hot" all of the time so I can monitor the battery even when the bike is tucked away in the garage.  If I notice any color but green, I'll either ride or hook up the battery tender.

After my Valk alternator failed in Colorado, I became convinced that battery and charge condition is something a rider needs to be continually apprised of.

Curtis

[Charles S Otwell]

In the Magnas case they need to add a color for over 15 volts.. It's a shame we don't have some electronic techs on here  to figure out how to add one?

[hootmon]

I sent EC an e-mail asking if they ever thought of adding an over-voltage indicator... Hey, it can't hurt to ask!!!

[Sledge Hammer]

If you're willing to make your own mount for it, how about one of these http://www.mouser.com/catalog/635/2022.pdf? Jewell Instruments's analog 0-30Vdc meter (Mouser P/N 541-OMS-DVV-030) for $22.42, less shipping. If it's the one I used at a previous job, all you have to do is to mount it and run wires to it.