SS BRAKE LINE LENGTHS-?

lragan · August 27, 2008, 03:25:56 PM

Terry, I used an oil can with a pump in it. It was about out of 90 weight oil which I use on my chain, so I dumped the rest of the oil, rinsed it with gasoline, rinsed it three times with brake fluid, and pumped brake fluid up from the bottom. It feels solid now, and there were no bubbles in at least two reservoirs full of brake fluid pumped through it the normal way.

Nonetheless, I am going to buy a "vacuum pump" type brake bleeder. Can also use it on my cages. Just haven't been to town to check out the prices at Harbor Freight. Sometimes the catalog is cheaper, and sometimes the local store, on the same item. Go figure!

Charles S Otwell · August 27, 2008, 03:29:19 PM

If your talking about Harbor freight, you do know that you can print out the online catolog price and they will honor it at the store, at least they will at our store.

lragan · August 27, 2008, 03:30:29 PM

Quote from: mainerider on August 26, 2008, 07:09:16 PM

I was just logging on to post a question about the grommets and protective rubber covering when I saw your post here on the same topic...Could you cut the oem grommet located on the fender brake line bracket and re-use it? Is it possible to slip the OEM grommet over the hardware end of the DD cable and re-use it? Also, did you bother replacing the tie up near the tree that holds the brake and speedo cables? I would like to have everything on hand before I yank the OEM cable off. Thanks.
Joe

Joe, I tried to slide the OEM grommet over the banjo fitting on the end, without success. I could barely get it to slide over the rubber outer cover of the brake line!

The grommet I found I had to cut. The only reason I haven't cut the OEM grommets off is a little silly, I guess. I want to leave the OEM unit intact in case someone wants one. If I can't find useable grommets at Radio Shack or Fry's (the main use of them has historically been to protect wires from edges of chassis holes in electronic equipment) then I will cut the ones off the OEM line and install them on the SS line.

Lurkin · August 28, 2008, 08:36:27 AM

Just confirming Lawrence's experience. I had to cut the stock grommet, as it would not fit over the banjos, and getting the tubing over the banjos took a bit of wrangling and cussing.

As for bleeding, I have a Mity Vac, but found the easiest way for me to get 'em bled was to use patience and gravity. I've changed my brakeline twice now. The first time I used the MityVac, but found it was easier to add the inital fluid, pull the hell out of the lever until the fluid found it's way into the caliper, then let it sit for about 30 minutes and let gravity fill the caliper and allow the majority of the air to weep out (it will stop bubbling), just watch the resevoir so it doesn't go too low. Then put the drain plug in, work up some pressure with the lever, and do a couple of "normal" bleeds with the lever and plug.

Rod...

Magnatic · August 28, 2008, 11:40:21 AM

I used to have a Ducati 907ie that I always had trouble bleeding the brakes. I read somewhere to zip tie the brake lever down and leave it for a day or two. That always worked for me.

L J VFR · August 28, 2008, 12:20:56 PM

Magnatic, Let me ask a stupid question.. Did you pump the brakes before you tied off the lever, or did it without any pressure to the lever?

Magnatic · August 28, 2008, 12:33:40 PM

I could not get much pressure to build up, so I just zip-tied it down tight to the handlebar, and left it
alone. It was at least 24 hours later when I got to it, then I cut the zip-tie and it was good to go,
nice and firm. I did this at least 2-3 times and it worked every time.

L J VFR · August 28, 2008, 12:45:53 PM

Shoot.. That works for me. Let it do it's thing itself!!

Just reminder to self, do this when it is 10 degrees and snowing outside..

lragan · August 28, 2008, 04:18:08 PM

With the handle all the way down, there is a way for air bubbles to work their way to the top. The whole problem is that air is lighter than brake fluid, so it wants to go up, and in pumping the brake actuator, or pulling via a vacuum pump from the bottom, we are pulling the air bubbles down. Depending on temperature, brake fluid used, size of the line, etc. the bubbles may or may not work their way to the top without interference.

That is why pumping fluid up from the bottom works -- it pushes the air bubbles in the same direction that they want to go anyway.

Nonetheless, I was at Harbor Freight today, and bought a brake bleeding kit with valve on sale for $19.95. May be a waste of money, I don't know. An oil can with pump in it pushing from the bottom works pretty well...

roboto65 · August 28, 2008, 05:55:17 PM

The only thing I see wrong with the ziptie method is if you are leaving the cover off during that 24 or so hours. Brake fluid is hydroscopic hope I got that right meaning it absorbs water so the longer you leave that cover off the more water it absorbs from the air and if you live in Texas

you know thats alot during this time of the year LOL

lragan · August 28, 2008, 06:07:11 PM

Quote from: roboto65 on August 28, 2008, 05:55:17 PM
The only thing I see wrong with the ziptie method is if you are leaving the cover off during that 24 or so hours. Brake fluid is hydroscopic hope I got that right meaning it absorbs water so the longer you leave that cover off the more water it absorbs from the air and if you live in Texas you know thats alot during this time of the year LOL

Close enough, Allen. The word you are looking for is hygroscopic. Hydroscopic is the ability to see underwater. Your point is well taken, though.

The bigger point for me is my impatience. I don't want to wait a day for the whole thing to settle out. I want to finish it and ride NOW!!

mainerider · August 28, 2008, 08:15:20 PM

Quote from: Lurkin on August 28, 2008, 08:36:27 AM
Just confirming Lawrence's experience. I had to cut the stock grommet, as it would not fit over the banjos, and getting the tubing over the banjos took a bit of wrangling and cussing.

As for bleeding, I have a Mity Vac, but found the easiest way for me to get 'em bled was to use patience and gravity. I've changed my brakeline twice now. The first time I used the MityVac, but found it was easier to add the inital fluid, pull the hell out of the lever until the fluid found it's way into the caliper, then let it sit for about 30 minutes and let gravity fill the caliper and allow the majority of the air to weep out (it will stop bubbling), just watch the resevoir so it doesn't go too low. Then put the drain plug in, work up some pressure with the lever, and do a couple of "normal" bleeds with the lever and plug.

Rod...

Hey Rod,
I take it you were able to slip the OEM brakeline rubber overcoat off and then you put it over the new SS line? Thanks.
Joe

mainerider · August 28, 2008, 08:23:53 PM

BTW,
Did you all see a big improvement with the SS line? I ask because I've already seen a big improvement by changing the fluid out; it hadn't been done by the prior owner and was 5 years/14,000 miles old. I've seen soda with fewer bubbles than what came out when I bled it

I guess my more focused question is how much additional improvement should I expect to see with the SS line ? Thanks.
Joe

lragan · August 28, 2008, 10:45:22 PM

I am a poor experimenter, I fear. I made two changes at once -- the new HH sintered pads AND the new SS brake line. Together they made an awesome difference, but I can't quantify which one was the most effective.

Lurkin · August 31, 2008, 07:03:19 PM

Joe, I had to clip one end off the cover in order to get it to start, after that it was just "convincing" it.

Rod.