Starter Switch

TLRam1 · February 02, 2009, 11:36:13 PM

Lawrence or anyone else who has dealt with this and can give input, I asked Lawrence as he seems to be our resident electrical guy. It will take me some time to figure out the schematic so to save me some time I was calling on help from ones who can more easily decipher the wiring diagram.

The guy wired a aux starter switcher directly to the solenoid. I do not know if he disconnected wires, cut wires, etc. yet. I have not been into it yet deep enough to sort or answer many questions.

The switch may be bad. Which way should I have continuity on the terminals, from front to back on each side, criss cross?

Which 2 wires can I jump across to activate the solenoid, if the switch were bad?

Kickstand switch has three wires, one for the light and which 2 would I check for continuity? Is this a normally open or closed circuit?

Neutral switch, does this dump to ground? Is this a normally open circuit?

What am I checking on each circuit for example.

Red/bl and y/r should be open, push the button and it should be a closed circuit.

Gr/Y should be open to ground, put the bike in gear and it should be a closed circuit to ground.

Make it simple! Lol It will take me some time to get back and check these out so don't expect a quick response.

Charles S Otwell · February 03, 2009, 12:26:15 AM

Terry when mine quit I took the redneck approach, I took the switch and starter button out of the housing and took them apart, sprayed them down with cleaner and checked all the contacts and cleaned them. with the switch apart it was easy to see which contacts were open or closed when the switch was on and which contacts were opened or closed when the starter button was pushed. In my case the springs were weak and the contacts weren't making good connection. I stretched the springs and added a little grease (in other words I'm to cheap to buy a new switch) and put it back to gether. I did check out the switch to see if it was working before putting it all back together. I don't have a wiring schematic and the one you posted is too small for my old eyes, even with my glasses

. Maybe Lawrence or someone will have more technical advise, I'm mostly just wasting time

mainly yours

..

TLRam1 · February 03, 2009, 01:11:30 AM

Not at all Charles as that is probably the approach I will take with the switch. Before I say it is the switch I want to ensure the rest of the circuit is functioning properly and will have to decipher PO's wiring and reconnect what he may have undone or cut. I was not for sure if the starter switch would come apart and it looks like a pain to replace and expensive to buy the whole starter switch harness.

I will also need to see what wires are suppose to connected to the solenoid. Lawrence has the schematic, I don't understand why my camera did not take good photos of the pages.

This was a good waste of time!

Chad in Michigan · February 03, 2009, 07:07:48 AM

Terry I have the .pdf of the manual if you need it, it has the schematic in there as well. I've messed around with those wires on my bike. I installed a keyless ignition on it. I'll look over the schematic and try to remember what goes where.

Chad in Michigan · February 03, 2009, 07:45:46 AM

OK Terry. I think I remember after looking over the schematic. you should have a black/green, black/white and a yellow/red for the starter circuit. the blue/white + black/red is for the headlight - it shuts off power to the headlight when you press the start button.
you should have continuity across the black/green and the black/white with the run/kill switch in the run position. you should have continuity across the black/white and the yellow/red wires when you push the starter button AND have the run/kill switch to run. The yellow/red wire is the one that goes back to the starter soleniod to start the bike. +12v on that wire should start your bike. you can jumper it out at the soleniod to test if need be. the run/kill switch is tied into the starter circuit. the power (+12v) goes from the battery to the post of the starter solenoid, through a fuse (30A) then through the ignition switch, then through a fuse (10A) then through the run/kill switch, then the starter button, then on to one side of the starter relay coil (yellow/red wire) the other side of the coil needs to be grounded in order to work. if you have +12v all the way there and it still does not start, you need to check the neutral saftey switch, the clutch switch and the side stand switch. the ground side of the coil goes through all those components in order to make the coil energized and turn the starter over. if you want to quickly test the bike after you've made the +12v checks and it does not start, you can bypass those and run a ground wire from the battery to the green/red wire on the starter solenoid which is the ground for the starter solenoid. if it starts, then you know you have something wrong with the ground side and need to check those 3 switches on the ground side. hope this makes sence.

Chad in Michigan · February 03, 2009, 07:53:56 AM

Here's a usefu part of the schematic as well:

click to download and enlarge.

I added the schematic that you posted above also terry.:

[attachment deleted by admin]

TLRam1 · February 03, 2009, 05:59:21 PM

Thanks for taking the time to write this up Chad. It will probably be this weekend before I can tear into this.

Thanks for the scans on the wiring diagram, I will try to that to the Magna FAQ Section. Your scans are easier to read than the book.

My scanner does not have a large platform to scan the oversize page.

TLRam1 · February 03, 2009, 06:05:36 PM

LOL now that I look at your scans, I guess your platform was not large enough either.

Chad in Michigan · February 03, 2009, 06:46:13 PM

Hey terry, i didn't scan that in. I have the entire thing in a .pdf file if you want it. shoot me your email addy. again and i'll send it to ya.

TLRam1 · February 08, 2009, 08:02:29 PM

Getting setup for a long search and discover mission to resolve the starter issue where the previous owner rerouted the wiring and hooked up another starter switch. Have to undo the wrapped wires and see what wires were cut, went where and attached to what.

Switch is dangling, Chad's notes are organized and attached to the windshield.

Another previous owners wiring skills at their finest. This bolt was Hot, connected directly to the battery, nada fuse one. That large honker of a side cover starter switch will have to come out and plugged with a grommet. Sorta cool, reminds me of a old school Harley where you reach back and hit the starter button. In gear, out of gear, side stand down, up, doesn't matter it's going to turn the starter motor!

After undoing all the wiring, the bolt was tied to nothing other than the battery, served no purpose. The other electrical tape was just wrapped around wiring.

Started going through Chad's checklist. Made my way up to the starter switch, jumped the 2 wires that should give the solenoid juice and in turn the starter motor, sure enough it did! I pulled a Charles frugalness and worked on the switch.

After undoing all the wrapped wires come to find out the PO did not cut or reroute any, this turned out relative easy thanks to your notes Chad.

Charles S Otwell · February 08, 2009, 08:27:59 PM

Glad to hear you got it figured out, "Charles frugalness" that was nice of you, but cheap is what I am and it's ok to call it that

. Nice to know who has all those good wiring diagrams

.

Chad in Michigan · February 08, 2009, 08:30:38 PM

Glad to hear it came out alright

wondering why he did, or more of, what he did.. i don't know why that bolt would be tied to the + terminal.. he could have tied the switch to positive and the switch would have supplied power when pushed to the starter solenoid. maybe that's what he did. so you cleaned the contacts and all is good after removing the P/O's wiring snafu? thats great! hopefully that's all that's wrong with it. are you going to do anything about those goofy looking grips? they look strange for some reason.

Chad in Michigan · February 08, 2009, 08:34:19 PM

got to thinking about that bolt terry. he probably did that to quickly pop off that side cover instead of the seat to jump start it. if you think about it, he could have connected a jumper lead there and then to the frame to jump it.. looks like too thin of wire, but would have served the purpose.. just tryin to think redneck

TLRam1 · February 08, 2009, 08:37:56 PM

Quote from: chadschloss78 on February 08, 2009, 08:30:38 PM
Glad to hear it came out alright wondering why he did, or more of, what he did.. i don't know why that bolt would be tied to the + terminal.. he could have tied the switch to positive and the switch would have supplied power when pushed to the starter solenoid. maybe that's what he did. so you cleaned the contacts and all is good after removing the P/O's wiring snafu? thats great! hopefully that's all that's wrong with it. are you going to do anything about those goofy looking grips? they look strange for some reason.

He wired the honker switch direct to the solenoid. I left it for now incase my regular switch fails, a back up. I took the switch apart, cleaned, greased, bent up the contacts a bit so it would work. Yea, I don't know what the bolt was for?

The grips will go for sure, still deciding what to do. Charles has my "ace in the hole" and offered up a set if I don't go another route. They look strange as they are torn up. lol

TLRam1 · February 08, 2009, 08:40:08 PM

Quote from: chadschloss78 on February 08, 2009, 08:34:19 PM
got to thinking about that bolt terry. he probably did that to quickly pop off that side cover instead of the seat to jump start it. if you think about it, he could have connected a jumper lead there and then to the frame to jump it.. looks like too thin of wire, but would have served the purpose.. just tryin to think redneck

I thought maybe as you but instead touching the bolt to the solenoid, doesn't look like enough room and no arc marks on the bolt, I think we are on the right track though.