Shindengen Regulator

[lragan]

Len, I am sure you have noticed that the bottom of the unit is a cavity with potting material in it.  Consequently, there is not a lot of contact area for a plate under the unit.  I doubt the thermal conductivity of the potting material is very high, and even if it were, there is a hollow where it doesn't quite fill the cavity.   

Every little bit will help, of course.  Relocation is probably the best bet for reliability considerations.

I have been looking at another approach of heat removal, namely a heat pipe.  The biggest obstacle is sealing a copper tube without applying heat.  It has to withstand substantial pressure.  I have noticed sealed compressors for heat pumps as in Air Conditioners that have a protruding copper tube that appears to be crimp sealed with some sort of cold weld process.  Are you familiar with a tool that does this?  If so, is it a big expensive item or something I might be able to afford to buy?

[TLRam1]

Len, I am sure you have noticed that the bottom of the unit is a cavity with potting material in it.  Consequently, there is not a lot of contact area for a plate under the unit.  I doubt the thermal conductivity of the potting material is very high, and even if it were, there is a hollow where it doesn't quite fill the cavity.   

Every little bit will help, of course.  Relocation is probably the best bet for reliability considerations.

I thought about the backside after I posted, with a large plate where all edges touch, every little bit will help.

Still in the process of email exchange with Sunon the fan company. I prefer to keep it hidden somewhere, if the fan does not pan out I will look into the plate to assist the dissipation of heat. I've not the experience with looking for other places as many of you have, that may happen when I receive my regulator. 

[Len Averyt]

Len, I am sure you have noticed that the bottom of the unit is a cavity with potting material in it.

Yea i know what your talkin about. you would have to fill it with a thermal conductive putty. Which you can get its the consistancy of plumers putty, not like the white heatsink compound. But like you said the potting probably doesn't conduct heat very well so it would probably be a moot point.

[Capt. Howard]

Maybe put an air-conditioning unit on it like in a Lap-Top computer!!!!

Don't short circuit me....I'm not a "Geek"....Oh you could tell....LOL

You guys are going to figure it out I'm sure and I will be glad to test it for you.....

I'll go back to wheel-house now........Capt.

[TLRam1]

The new ones come black vs the natural aluminum color. I had little cooperation from the factory regarding their waterproof fans, if I had more time I could resolve this.





This is the backside, looks like there is enough surface metal where a plate added to the the backside would help reduce the heat.

[lragan]

Putting a plate on the back side definitely could not hurt.  The plastic battery box is bound to be worse than simply hanging it in the air.

What would be most effective -- beyond the plate -- would be to extend the heat sink laterally to the limits of the mounting space.  This could be done with a piece that mounts the R/R on a reasonably thick aluminum base which extends past the edge of the R/R, as you planned for the plate, but add fins to the extensions.  A heat sink with a well in it for the R/R, if you would.

Not as cheap as a plate, for sure.

It would be nice to find a solution that does not compromise the appearance of the bike, and does not require unwrapping the wiring harness.

[TLRam1]

I do plan to extend the plate out, haven't thought about fins on the plate, good idea. I think it would be better to have a conduit between the two surfaces, what are your ideas?

[lragan]

I do plan to extend the plate out, haven't thought about fins on the plate, good idea. I think it would be better to have a conduit between the two surfaces, what are your ideas?

Not sure what you mean by "conduit" in this context, but there needs to be good thermal contact.  Given limited flatness on both parts, a thermal "grease" of some sort is probably called for.

[lragan]

Maybe put an air-conditioning unit on it like in a Lap-Top computer!!!!

Don't short circuit me....I'm not a "Geek"....Oh you could tell....LOL

You guys are going to figure it out I'm sure and I will be glad to test it for you.....

I'll go back to wheel-house now........Capt.

This is not as far-fetched as you might think.  Many of the high power CPU chips require cooling, and among the most effective are systems that use heat pipes.  My chemist son and I are in discussion about trying out such a solution for this problem.  If it comes to pass, we will, of course, post it here first!!

[TLRam1]

I do plan to extend the plate out, haven't thought about fins on the plate, good idea. I think it would be better to have a conduit between the two surfaces, what are your ideas?

Not sure what you mean by "conduit" in this context, but there needs to be good thermal contact.  Given limited flatness on both parts, a thermal "grease" of some sort is probably called for.

That's the term I was looking for! I was thinking of grease but the obvious didn't come to mind.

[TLRam1]

Are you saying to put copper tubing between the fins? and extend out or a closed system with water added?

[lragan]

Are you saying to put copper tubing between the fins? and extend out or a closed system with water added?

We have in mind a plate that would mount between the R/R and the battery box, just as you have proposed.  Our plate would have two horizontal holes in it that would have sealed tubes inserted in the holes.  The tubes would be brought aft, with gentle bends, and terminate under the fender mounts tightly against same.  If we do it right, the temperature of the mounting plate should remain within about 1 degree C of the temperature of the metal of the fender mounts.

We are still debating the details, including material (Cu or Al), the working fluid (H2O, Acetone, Freon of some sort) and the composition of the wick material. 

It would not be as inexpensive or simple as the relocation that Jim accomplished and I copied, but it would preserve the aesthetics of the bike, and would, we believe, keep the R/R cooler.

Don't hold your breath for this.  The engineering of it is not simple.  We have a lot to learn, and may decide it is a bad idea after we try some things.

[TLRam1]

Jump on it Lawrence, whatcha waiting for, sounds like a good idea! If this could be mounted in front of the motor either above the radiator or lower in the area around the oil filter.

[Charles S Otwell]

I like to ask a dumb question now and then so here it is, if a small fan could keep the regulator cool (assuming you could find one water proof and durable enough) wouldn't a small 12 volt air compressor put out enough air to do the same thing, it could be wired to run when temps require it , something like the radiator fan switch??

Ok after you stop laughing someone give me a serious answer, probably somone besides TLRam1

[lragan]

I like to ask a dumb question now and then so here it is, if a small fan could keep the regulator cool (assuming you could find one water proof and durable enough) wouldn't a small 12 volt air compressor put out enough air to do the same thing, it could be wired to run when temps require it , something like the radiator fan switch??

Ok after you stop laughing someone give me a serious answer, probably somone besides TLRam1

I don't know if this would work or not, Charles.  I have an extra compressor (see the thread on air horns...) which I will gladly send to you if you want to try it.  Not sure how long this compressor would run in "full on" mode -- it's purpose in life is to power air horns, which, hopefully, are used sparingly and intermittently.  I have not measured the current, but they supply a relay with the unit rated at 40 amps!

With that much current draw, the regulator will probably not get that hot anyway...

Maybe there are better choices.  I only offer what I have---