95 3. gen carbs clean and shim questions

Started by Cannon, November 10, 2009, 03:17:06 AM

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lragan

Yeah, I noticed this discrepancy in experts' opinions myself.  Since I know Greg but have never met Dave Dodge, I chose to "dance with the girl who brought me" to this point.  I have done two bikes using this method, and found that replacing the carbs was much easier than removing them. :-D

I thought about following DD's instructions on the second bike, but only for a second... " naaaahhhhh, let's go with what you already know works". :cool: :cool:

This doesn't answer your question, I know.  Sorry.
Lawrence
'96 Blue Austin TX
Ride to Live, Live to Ride longer Wear a Helmet

roboto65

When you remove the carbs you should loosen the clamps on the engine side and the boots come off with the carbs. When you put them back on I always set the carb and boots on the rear first and press down till seated then the tricky part you need to pry the nubs tits whatever you call them heheh out and the carbs will drop slightly then comes the hard part pushing them the rest of the way a little grease helps before you start.
Allen Rugg 
76 Jeep CJ

The adventure begins where your plans fall through.

Lurkin

My opinion, and I've done it twice this way successfully (not quite the number that others have done, but it works for me), is neither.  I leave the boots loose on both ends.  I apply a thin layer of synthetic grease to both ends of the boots, place them loosely over the engine end, slide the carb bank in, place the boots almost in a straight line between the engine and carbs (I say straight, but they'll still be at a angle of a wider "V" then the engine, i.e., more level, hook the outside edge (engine outside, head sides...) of the boot over the top of the engine port, the inside boot edge is on the top of the inside port, just slightly over it, but not on it.  Then push hard directly down on the carb bank, even pressure from front to back, left to right.

I know this isn't how it's documented here, but I read somewhere that this is how it was done at the factory (fact or fiction, don't know for sure) and it has worked well for me.

Rod.

roboto65

Hey if it works I will try it next time I get to ork on a Magna sounds like an idea the only thing that might have to change would be the clamp configuration
Allen Rugg 
76 Jeep CJ

The adventure begins where your plans fall through.

Cannon

Hello again

Finally temperatures that makes it possible to do some work on the bike 8-)

What is the recommended setting for the pilot screws on a 3. gen with following setup;
- dd needle shims
- k/n airfilter
- stock jets, exhaust and everything else

TLRam1

Quote from: Cannon on February 26, 2010, 09:23:06 AM
Hello again

Finally temperatures that makes it possible to do some work on the bike 8-)

What is the recommended setting for the pilot screws on a 3. gen with following setup;
- dd needle shims
- k/n airfilter
- stock jets, exhaust and everything else


What are they now, what issues do you have, what's your elevation, temps in the summer?

2 3/4 turns out, you can go more if needed, some go 3 or a little more, but that should do a good job for you.

Look at this thread to see what others have done.
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=2119.0
Terry

My mama always told me never put off till tomorrow people you can kill today.

Allen, TX.

74 GT750 - 75 GT380 – 01 Magna - 03 KX 250-01 – 04 WR 450 - 74 T500 Titan

Cannon

#21
They were set to a bit less than 2 1/2 turns out from a light seating. Put the carbs back on today and set the pilots to 2 3/4. Started her up and it all seems ok. Cant really know the final result before testriding. With the snow still falling I guess the first ride will have to wait for at least 6 weeks.

Another queston; the fuel vacuum valve was stuck and i had to fix it. While doing the manual tests before putting it back I discovered that the valve opens as it should when applying vacuum. What I did not expect was that the valve remained open after cutting off the vaccuum. There is actually a tiny one-way air-valve in the housing, in the part where the vaccum hose enters the valve, and this air-valve restricts air flowing back into the vacuum camber. The return spring inside the chamber is for this reason not able to shut off the fuel when vaccum is cut off.

Anyone know why this is? I left the thing for 2 hours and it did not close during this period. This means that a bike with bad float valves could risk having the cylinders filled with gass over time. What would be the idea with a vacuum valve that opens once and never closes?  




Cannon

Test ride yesterday. First ride in 2010. The carb cleaning and needle shims works great. Better throttle response ang midrange power. Perfect! Looking forward to warmer days 8-) 

hootmon

Quote from: Cannon on March 14, 2010, 04:17:41 AM
Test ride yesterday. First ride in 2010. The carb cleaning and needle shims works great. Better throttle response ang midrange power. Perfect! Looking forward to warmer days 8-) 
Glad to hear it.. Sounds like you got out sooner than you expected..
I'm surprised you did not get a response to your Vacuum shut off question, You may want to start that as a separate thread..
"accidents aren't predictable, don't be a DUMBASS" - MD Dan

packge33

I think your valve is bad.  When I pulled mine to check a fuel flow problem, I tested it to find that it closes almost immediately when vaccuum is lost. 

Cannon

And now, after some riding in warmer conditions I must say that the needle schims are great. Cleaned carbs, shims and pilot screws 2 3/4 out makes it a "new bike". No decel pop, no flat spot in midrange and much better throttle responce 8-) This mod is highly recomended. Thanks for all good tips.

Anyone know what to expect from gas mileage after this mod? Better or worse, or as it was?         

lragan

At low altitude (approx 1000 feet ASL), my mileage dropped from about 53 to about 45 mpg.  For some strange reason, when I rode for a week in Colorado (average around 6000 feet ASL) the mileage went up to 55+.  I ride within the speed limits, typically 55 to 70 mph.
Lawrence
'96 Blue Austin TX
Ride to Live, Live to Ride longer Wear a Helmet

Charles S Otwell

My wife's Magna dropped from 50 down to 45 mpg when we put the Cobra Drag pipes on it. I'm hoping the carb work will bring it back up. Although the bike runs fine now, the extra 5 mpg would be nice. let us know how your mileage turns out..
Charles
#279
Texarkana,Tx

Curtis_Valk

Lawrence I don't know if it is the fuel formulation up there or the dense cool air, but I have had the same experience with my Valk and my Chevy truck.  I once got 23 mpg over a tankfull with a Vortec 350 in a '96 Chevy truck in Wyoming.  I thought it was a screw up on fill-up, but the tank before that was 21 mpg and the tank after was 19 mpg.  In Texas the best I could get was about 19 and that was rare.  More commonly 16 to 17 mpg.

Every trip to Colorado, my Valk gets the best mileage ever up there.

Curtis
Rowlett, TX MOOT #315 VRCC #26023
States I've Ridden



No need for a reason other than the journey.