Re-doing a jet kit

[JLeather]

When I picked up my '94 magna it already had V&H pipes on it and allegedly was re-jetted.  I'll believe that it was rejetted because it starts and runs decently well, but has a few issues.  It's more cold-natured than I'd like and it has pretty bad deceleration popping.  I'd say the mains are about right, it pulls strong and doesn't pop under load.  It's just the decel and the startup.  Also, it idles around 1200rpms.  What's the factory idle?  I've done lots of other Honda carbs and I've got a pretty good handle on what affects what range, but this is my daily ride and I can't screw it up.  Is this possibly just an idle-screw adjustment, or will I need to shim the needles a tad higher?  Is there a source for just shims?

[gargoyleddriver]

Theres lots of carb info if you search, but sounds like you need to bump up the idle jets. I did mine and the poping went away and gave me some much needed power on the low end. As for idle I believe its 1000 rpm.

[hootmon]

Theres lots of carb info if you search, but sounds like you need to bump up the idle jets. I did mine and the poping went away and gave me some much needed power on the low end. As for idle I believe its 1000 rpm.

1000 RPM, that's correct.

What air cleaner are you running??

You could try to turn out the Pilot jets some more (no Idea where they are set presently??)
You will need a special "D" socket, if you don't already have one.
I'd start at 2 3/4 turns out, but you may have to go a little further than that..

Any idea if you have any shims beyond the stock ONE shim???
There are some washers you can get from Radio Shack, that's what most people use, they are .020 " each (search the threads). You need to add at least one and maybe two..

There is some talk about going up to 42 pilots, but I have no data on that...

(unrelated) - Question.. Any chance you have a punch mark next to your S/N on the neck of the bike??

[Lurkin]

Advice really depends on the type of jet kit used.  If it was the Dynojet kit, the clip on the jet needle may not be in the right slot.  If it was a larger main jet and shim increase, then adjusting the idle jets may help.  Anyway to find out what jet kit was used?

[JLeather]

Only way I can think of to figure out what's in it is to tear the carbs off, which I haven't done yet since I got the bike.  I'm riding to NC and back from here in MD, like 1500-2000 miles depending on side-trips, in a few weeks.  Hopefully I'll have time before then.  I got a laundry list of things before then including valve adjustment, regulator relocation, and so on.  Since it's running it's kinda the bottom of my list, but I do hope to get to the carbs before the big ride.

[hootmon]

I got a laundry list of things before then including valve adjustment,

The information I have received from the experienced folks on this site is that valve adjustment on the Gen 3's is pretty much a waste.. several people have done it or had it done and none of the valves were more than .02 off. To do the valves yourself, you have to buy a shim kit that contains lot's of shims, you can't just get what you need.
So, you can keep valve adjustment on the list if you want to, but I'd think about replacing it with the carb work...

Did you see my question in my last post??
(unrelated) - Question.. Any chance you have a punch mark next to your S/N on the neck of the bike??

[TLRam1]

I would do carbs first before valves, valves as stated have not been an issue overall.

Posted here is good real life experiences regarding carb work, look over this and if you have questions be sure and ask.
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=2119.0

FAQ Section is a compilation of good information.
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=1917.0

[JLeather]

Hootmon, I'll check next time I'm in the garage.  I honestly have no idea.

If I can skip the valves then great.  Plenty of other stuff to do in the mean time.  The bike only has 11,500 miles on it anyway.  It does have a funny occasional rattle at hot idle.  It might be my slightly out-of-tune carbs rattling the clutch or primary.  I thought I'd do valves and eliminate that possibility, but if that's not likely the culprit I'll spend my time elsewhere.  I'll be pulling the carbs off this Friday (or maybe tonight if I get time after work after fixing the darn dishwasher).  Once I know where it is and what's already been installed I'll know what I'm up against.  BTW, anyone know what the correlation is between clips on the DynoJet kit and shims on a stock needle?

[Lurkin]

The hot idle rattle is probably the cam chain tensioners.  They normally rattle, but if they get significantly worse, then a tensioner replacement is in order.

The clips or shims adjust the needle height in the jet.  I.e., more shims set the needle higher and allow more fuel in.  Same with the needle clip.  The clip sets the height of the needle in the jet.  Lower clip on the needle (higher in the jet) allows more fuel.

There has been discussion on a couple boards that the Dynojet kits instructions are not correct (pics not matching words, or somesuch) and some installs put the needle clip in the wrong slot.  If you can get Greg ("The" MOOT Master) to see this, he probably has some advice as I beleive he had a DJ kit installed successfully.

[JLeather]

Hootmon, I did not see any punch mark on the neck of my bike.  What might such a mark indicate?

As for the carbs, I didn't have time to get them totally off tonight.  I did get everything else off around them, and I do in fact have a K&N filter with my V&H pipes.  I have K&N filter oil so I'll clean and re-oil it before I put it all back together.  Obviously something has been done to the carbs, because it would run terribly on the stock main/needle with these pipes and filter.  Friday I'll have time to get the carbs totally off and see what I'm dealing with here.

I will say that all the screws were correct, tight, and not stripped so whoever did the carb work was good.  Since the guy I saved the magna from didn't seem capable of such care I imagine it was done at a shop.

[hootmon]

Hootmon, I did not see any punch mark on the neck of my bike.  What might such a mark indicate?

The '94 had a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) to fix a "Cam Noise" issue where Honda would drill small holes in the Cam caps to let oil flow through them. IF Honda did the work, they were supposed to put a punch mark next to the S/N - I've NEVER had anyone say yes to the question yet, So it looks like Honda did not perform this work on very many bikes..

My '94 has a "Knock" sometimes at low idle (It's not a rattle, it's a knock), this seems to be "Normal" (for a NON-TSB'ed '94). The "Knock" might have gone away IF Honda had performed the TSB, but unsure since I can't find anyone who has had the work performed.

Thanx for checking for me.

[JLeather]

Well, while I'm this far into it is it worth drilling the caps or what?  I suppose that could be what I'm hearing.  I went and searched for your posts on this issue.  Mine sounds exactly the same.  It comes and goes, at idle only.  Usually 10-20 "knocks" at a time, then quiet for a bit, then back.  Only when hot too.  I'm up for doing the TSB if it's not too bad.  Has anyone actually performed it themselves, and does the noise actually go away?  Anything above idle and I can't hear it over the pipes

[hootmon]

I've been asking for about 4 years and I have not found anyone that has performed this on a a '94, so good luck on your quest!!!
I will tell you that I have about 80K on my bike and the knock is no worse and she still runs like new..
Would it have been better if the work had been done? probably.
Should it be done at this point in my Magna's life?? Hummm....

[Slydynbye]

I say if it ain't broke......Find something else to fiddle with.

[matty]

HI-

I just joined, and was about to post almost the same thing-

My bike is a '97, it has V & H pipes and the prev owner gave me a reciept showing the install of a :Dynojet" kit...

My symptoms are the outrageous amount of decel popping, plus I also have a "flat" spot where the throttle hesitates at about 5-6K RPM, especially if you roll off, then try to roll back on it hesitates then catches forward.

I'm thinking lean condition all around? Would the pilot screws help with this? Is this the same screws that are used for synch?

I am in Baltimore, I would love to team up with someone who could show me how to pull these carbs, I'm a little squirrley about trying it myself.