engine died

[punchy]

well iv'e just taken the reg/rec off....what a sod of a job that was...once id taken the chain guard off
it made it a little easier to get my hands around..i got a ring spanner and pressed into the ring end a 10mm
socket with my vice,that made the job easier...(i found a similar tip but using tape on this site)...gonna order a new one tomorrow...PS its only got short wires..

[LIMagna]

I managed to get at it easily enough with the bike up on the centerstand (thank you Dobie) and reaching up with a small socket from underneath.   What was a real PITA, was reconnecting the wires.  The first one (from the stator) went on pretty easily but the second one was just about impossible to do with the connector sitting in its retainer.  I finally gave up and just connected it outside of that and called the job complete.  If you are using one of the RR's with the longer wires and/or are relocating it, you should have a much easier time of getting things back together.  

[hootmon]

Yeah Punchy, while you are changing it out, and you have to wait for the part, get the relocation kit in the mean time and move the regulator as part of the project.. IMHO..

[punchy]

morning all, my rec/rec should be here today so the thing im asking is can someone do me a basic drawing
of the relocating things i need,brackets etc and the best place to install it,thats if it comes with the longer wires.....if it comes with stock wires would it be advisable to splice into them to make em longer and locate it some where else cooler...thanks in advance,punchy........

[hootmon]

morning all, my rec/rec should be here today so the thing im asking is can someone do me a basic drawing
of the relocating things i need,brackets etc and the best place to install it,thats if it comes with the longer wires.....if it comes with stock wires would it be advisable to splice into them to make em longer and locate it some where else cooler...thanks in advance,punchy........

Someone on this site has already made the bracket to move the R/R to the right side of the bike..
Someone will chime in.. Even if the R/R does NOT come with longer wires, you can strip back the Electrical tape on the wiring harness and move the bundle of wires on the bike back to the right to give you the length you need.

I would go to the local auto parts store also and get some conductive grease to put on all the spades for assembly. It will help prevent corrosion and improve conductivity (reduce heat).

[TLRam1]

Look at these threads and you'll get the picture. 

http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=3657.0

http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=3587.0

http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=3561.0

[punchy]

reg/rec fitted,wires lengthened,kuryakyn battery gauge fitted...been for an 80 mile ride this morning..
things looking good....happy chappy,,,,one more thing, i wired the live wire of the battery gauge into
the live wire on the main light bulb holder,and the black wire to an earthing point..im presuming this is ok..
the gauge is showing everything is working as it should....punchy

[LIMagna]

Wiring sounds fine but you might want to add a small (1amp) fuse on the line up to the battery gauge that way should anything go wrong from inside the headlight to gauge location, you won't blow the main fuse (still have your headlight working).  That's pretty much the way I wired mine.  Glad to hear that everything is back to normal!  

Safe riding!

[hootmon]

.. Another Regulator bites the dust!!!

[John Luttrell]

Wiring sounds fine but you might want to add a small (1amp) fuse on the line up to the battery gauge that way should anything go wrong from inside the headlight to gauge location, you won't blow the main fuse (still have your headlight working).  That's pretty much the way I wired mine.  Glad to hear that everything is back to normal!  

Safe riding!

I'll second this and add that the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.

[LIMagna]

John,

  I think if he did what I did, he tapped off of a wire in the headlight case so wouldn't you just put the fuse as close to the point you tapped as possible?  I know it's not quite the same but at least the wire that comes out of the case is protected and that's the most vulnerable point for a short since it's exposed for a short distance. 

[John Luttrell]

Yes, in fact, if he tapped in at the headlight, those circuits are all fused anyway at the fuse block.  You could however add a fuse where he tapped in for added protection; but it shouldn't be necessary.  I assumed that he had run a new wire from the battery and that it would require a fuse near the battery for protection; my bad for not reading the entire attachments.

[punchy]

yes i spliced into the live wire that goes into the plastic headlight block,the thing iv'e noticed is that when i put the high beam on, my battery gauge goes off then comes on when high beam is turned off...any ideas im thinking that when high beam is applied it must run through the other wire in the light block thus
temporary turning battery gauge off till i switch back to main running light...

[hootmon]

yes i spliced into the live wire that goes into the plastic headlight block,the thing iv'e noticed is that when i put the high beam on, my battery gauge goes off then comes on when high beam is turned off...any ideas im thinking that when high beam is applied it must run through the other wire in the light block thus
temporary turning battery gauge off till i switch back to main running light...

Looks like you tapped into the Low Beam feed wire.. Tap into the instrumentation lights instead and you shouldn't have that issue.

[punchy]

i'll check that out tommorrow hootman, i should have thought of that in the first place..doh