1994 honda magna turn,brake and neutral light stopped working

[tedkraus]

Suggest you re-examine your math.  If V is fixed, and R increases, current MUST decrease, not increase.

You know I must have been day dreaming I was thinking I/R in my head instead of IR thanks for correcting me.

[willie1187]

Well this is going to be a hard one to diagnose. I cant find a anything wrong. All wires have the insulation cover over the wires themselves making it really difficult to see, cant find no kinks or rubs anywhere. I realize I am overlooking the issue but I am no electrical expert. All connections are clean with NO corrosion what so ever. GRRRRR   I do appreciate all helping out!

[lragan]

Is it possible that you are running extra bright tail/brake lights or rear turn signals?  If so, the fuse you are using may be too small.

I know, I know, to suggest a higher amperage fuse when one blows is definitely not a good idea, but if you increase it only a bit, say from the 15 amp that the manual shows to, say 20 amp, it is unlikely that you will damage the wiring.  

If the fuse still blows, you know you have an intermittent short somewhere, and will need to look again.  Intermittent faults are maddeningly difficult to find.

According to the wiring diagram, when the fuse blows, it should also take out the horn, and all the lights on the "dash" -- flasher, oil pressure, neutral lights.  Is this happening?  If it is not, then something is amiss in the wiring -- it has been modified.  If it is true, the intermittent short may be in the front of the bike, near the meters.  There are interconnects in the headlight housing, for example which is made of sheet metal.  I don't remember if the dash light circuits interconnect there or not, but you may want to check it.   It is possible the insulation is worn either inside the light housing, or, more likely, where the wires come into the housing.  Likewise, where the wires enter the speedometer or tachometer housing.

Good luck. Keep us informed.