I have a new problem with my Magna. Lately it just dies at random. It doesn't sputter or cough just dies like you hit the on/off switch. Getting started back up can sometimes be a pain also. Recently I've cleaned the carbs and changed the fuel filter and spark plugs.
We have seen this a couple time and in some of these situations it was a auto fuel shut off diaphragm..
I would also check the ignition module brain.
I had a similar problem on my 83 V65. It turned out the contacts on the kill switch were gummed up and only made a connection when perfectly aligned. I took the switch aprt, cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and reassembled. No problem since. If it dies that instantly I would look electrical first.
Good luck.
That was my first thought. Unfortunately, I'm unable to get to the switch contacts as the little screws are stripped.
Just spray some electrical contact cleaner on it anyway. The electrical cleaner won't hurt anything else and will evaporate without leaving any residue. Make sure to move the switch back and forth while you are spraying it.
Good luck.
My first question how old is the battery ?? It will cause those symptoms to might want to check that..
Battery is new. I haven't worked on the bike since my first post in the thread. Hopefully I can get to it tonight. :)
My 84 V65 developed an electrical problem in the ignition switch. At first it was touchy when I turned it on. I had to wiggle the switch sometimes to get the panel to light up. I have had the whole thing just shut off while I was riding. The headlights went dead the motor died. I was able to turn the key and off and back on and every thing came back. Then a quick push ot the starter and I was going again.
I sprayed contact cleaner on the switch and vigorously turned the switch on and off several times. I have not had any more problems. The ignition switch is closed so I do not know if the cleaner helped or not.
Sounds like you are grounding out, check the wires and connectors from the rectifier/regulator and from the alternator. The connectors may have melted so that will be a quick find.
Quote from: RV8guyThat was my first thought. Unfortunately, I'm unable to get to the switch contacts as the little screws are stripped.
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a pack of left handed drill bits. Way better than easy outs. It will walk those screws right out, then replace with new screws after cleaning the contacts and lubing with some electrical grade grease. All the common stuff for the 1st gen v4 has been pretty well covered by the folks here.
Clean and grease the kill switch. Do this over a towel and a well swept floor. Springs and ball bearings like to fall out.
Clean and grease the ignition switch. Note that during disassy you will need to turn the key to a position in the middle of 2 normal positions to open the back up without breaking the tabs. Been so long I don't recall what positions but it ain't rocket science. see towel above.
Check the ground to the coils bracket for clean and tight.
Under the right side cover you will see 3 yellow wires going to a connector. Ditch the connector and solder in some equivalent gauge wire jumpers allowing room to remove the battery later. The connector overheats and begins melting down causing all sorts of electrical gremlins.
Check the fuse on the starter solenoid in the same area. There are 2 types of solenoids iirc. The early model also tends to go thru meltdown and there is an easy mod to fix it if it is bad. Ask if you need the fix. I'll look for the writeup.
Take care of the above V4 quirks now and you will fix your current problem and you won't end up stranded later when, not if, one of the above mentioned items decides it is time to act up. This would usually be at 2AM during a rainstorm in the bad part of town or out in the middle of nowheresville.
I replaced this plug a year or so ago and it just gave out again so I'm going to hardwire it. Something like this Billy...
If you're going to buy left handed drills, do yourself a big favor and get them from Mac or Snap-On, or at least Sears. They won't be that expensive, and it's something you'll regret saving a little money on when the cheap ones just shave the top of the screw off instead of backing it out.
IMHO, buying the more expensive, higher quality tool is usually cheaper in the long run anyway. You'll usually only need to buy it once.
If it all goes wrong, let me know. I probably have a used replacement you can have. I'll just ask for a small donation to a Doberman rescue organization.
I race dirt bikes off road and wrench on airplanes for a living so I'm all about good tools. Heck, I started building my own airplane just so I could buy more tools :lol: The Snap-On guy knows me well.
Brandon,
I used to think that buying Snap-On tools was a big waste of money. Now that I use them everyday, like you, I "get it".