I've been reading over the directions for installing Progressive front
fork springs and was hoping to get some good advice.
The problem, as I see it, is that attorneys got hold of the directions
and tried to divine anything and everything that some idiot (me) might
do in the future and write a !!!WARNING!!! to cover the manufacturers
backside...just like the warning on the girlfriend's blow dryer, "Don't
use while sleeping."
Is there really someone out there, besides me, who blow dries his hair
in bed? I mean I just don't have time in the morning with the make-up to
put on and the curling iron to use. Okay, lame kidding aside, what I'm
asking for is advice from you guys who've installed them just what is
the "blowing drying in bed" junk in the directions.
Of course, the first instruction is: "Removing and replacing fork
springs should be performed by a qualified, professional mechanic."
Strike one, two & three. I'm neither qualified, professional nor a
mechanic. :)
Step 1) Disregard the first instruction.
Before I knew about MOOT I asked a local mechanic about the proper fork
oil to use. I bought 1 Liter of "10W Motul Road & Off Road, Fork Oil,
Factory Line, Medium Low Synthese." Good/Bad? Enough?
I'm 180lbs. and ride two-up occasionally with a 100lbs. or a 136lbs.
passenger. It's 95 VF750CD.
I run a Super Brace. One of the cautions was regarding fork braces. Has anyone installed Progressives with a previously installed fork brace? Any trouble with the springs locking up? Or some other malfunction?
Progressive's directions: "Refer to the owners manual for fork removal
instructions" I read the Magna manual and it didn't have the
instructions for removing the springs. I read the Common Service Manual
and, if I'm reading it correctly, it has you taking the forks off the bike.
I'm confused and will probably take it to a pro if I have to take the forks off.
Okay, quick question: Has somebody put together a web page with easy
instructions and pics for changing Magna fork springs?
Does anybody have a simple way to get these installed properly?
Thanks for the help!
OK, I did the springs on my 2000 last year, so I may be a little fuzzy. And I am a less qualified mechanic that you are. Do not take the forks off. I just removed the front wheel. I will say there are three areas where you need to be careful.
1. Be careful that you dont damage the speedo cable end when you R&R it. Tie up the brake caliper so that it doesn't hang by the cable.
2. Be careful when you remove the caps on top. There is pressure there and you may end up eating a cap or spring.
3. When you put the caps back on, it is very easy to cross thread and strip the caps.
And of course make sure the bike is secure when you lift it up.
There is a good write up on this topic in the "tips and Tricks" section of MOOT.
And here is another good site:
http://www.magnaluver.freehomepage.com/ProgressiveInstallation.htm
The front wheel does not need to come off the bike unless your fork drain plug is above the axle.
If you can see your fork drain plug on the backside of your forks than the front wheel is fine on the bike.
Simple to do and when you read someones instructions can make it seem much more involved.
In a nutshell what you are doing is
1. Lifting the front wheel off the ground
2. Drain your forks
3. Unscrew your fork caps (push down-spring pressure on caps)
4. Pull out spacers and springs (keep washer)
5. With forks depressed fill with Fork oil to appropriate level (can't remember) from top of fork to the oil level in the fork. What you have is fine STOCK 10WGT I went 15 WGT for more dampening.
6. Put new springs in w/washer on top of spring
7. Cut new spacers out of PVC
Stock length = 5.12 inch
Agressive Progressive Length= 5.35 inches (this is my recommendation if you want it a little more progressive, I did mine at 5.50 inches I think but hard to get the caps on. So far I love it and would do it again!!)
8. Put in new spacers and replace caps ( you do want your forks at there outer most exptension).
Presto, Your done!! Take it for a test ride and enjoy!
Great...Thanks for the help, guys!
Terry, regarding question #5, With forks depressed fill with Fork oil to appropriate level."
Possibly a dumb question here, but does that mean lower the bike down and push on the bars to depress the forks? Or am I/are we upside down in the thinking and the forks are to be fully extended before filling?
You have it correct.
The forks need to be depressed. THe bike is on the stand so I put a piece of wood under the front wheel and maybe the back also (tilt or keep the pressure on the front wheel) to depress the forks all the way to a bottomed-out state.
Easier to leave the bike on the stand to do this. Try placing a jack under a Low Rider Magna with the forks bottomed-out, it ain't happening easy.
Once you have the fluid at the correct level you can release the forks to their Fully Extended state to finish the install.
There is a write up on the MOOT tips and tricks page.
Replacing fork springs is easy - I did it myself in very little time. I was lucky, as my 94 has the bleeder for the fork oil at the back bottom of the fork. So, I didn't have to remove the front wheel. :)
As Greg said, check out the write up on the tips and tricks page. If you have that bleeder screw at the bottom rear of the fork, then it will take no time at all. (I think 96 and up did away with that, not sure exactly when they changed designs.)
BTW, with the PVC spacers, I went down to Home Depot, bought a length of PVC, and asked them to cut a couple of pieces to length for me. Maybe it's cuz I'm cute that they did it for me, but it saved alot of time. ;) The tubing cutter I had would not cut all the way through the piece of PVC, and hacksawing left it with an angled cut.
Michelle
Thanks for the post, Michelle! I checked and my bike does have the bleeder at the bottom back of the fork...cool!
Hopefully, I can get to Home Depot tomorrow and buy the PVC. But, I'm probably gonna have to do it the long way and cut my own, cuz, I'm sure I'm not nearly at cute as you.
Michelle is correct that 96 and newer they moved the fork drain plug to the bottom of the fork tube and requires pulling the front axle to gain access.
Cool!!! Watching others and trying to help and stay out of the way at the same time while observing them changing out the front spring I did not feel comfortable draining the oil from the bottom. It always looks like it is about to get stripped out, but my bike is a 94 with a back drain plug. It is not high on the list but progressive springs are now on the list of thing to do.
For cutting the PVC, a trick I used was to get a cheap plastic mitre box somewhere, mark the proper length on the pipe, then hold the pipe in the mitre box and hacksaw it using the 90 degree blade guide.
To get the fluid level set, I used a large syringe (small enough to fit in the fork tubes) and marked the length from the tip to a spot on the syringe tube. After slightly over filling the fork tube with oil, insert the syringe and draw out fluid until it sucks air. Most auto parts stores carry a syringe type device that can be used.
Rod.
When I drained the fluid on my 94, I used masking tape to hold a funnel to the fork just below the bleeder screw. I put a canister under the funnel, opened the screw, and walked away.
The tubing cutter that Home Depot used to cut the PVC was the one that they use to cut the steel tubing to length. It worked excellent and made a beautiful cut. Plus, once he set the length for one piece, the other turned out exactly the right length. Since you have to purchase the whole length of tubing, you might as well have them cut you a couple of spacers that are a little longer than suggested. You never know when you will want to experiment with your suspension setup. :)
Lurkin, I really like the marked syringe idea!
Michelle, great little trick! I've even got a funnel with a notch in it that'll mate-up to the fork really well. :D
You guys all gave me a little peace-o-mind and are better than Extra Strength Excedrin for preventing headaches. ;)
I was really apprehensive before posting, but now I'm excited to get this done! 8)
I used the wife's turkey baster instead of a syringe....no one could quite place that funny taste in the turkey :shock: :D
Am I the only one here that has a miter saw? You guys need to get into the world of power tools. argh, argh, more power.
"I don't think so Tim" :D ! Delta 10" compound mitre, here, more torque than a brand new Kenworth, cuts pvc like butter.. :oops: sorry someone must have said power tools!
Hey, all-
Not sure what the norm is here, but I didn't want to sound ungrateful because I didn't come back and say that I got it done and that appreciate your help. Anyway, I've been to the doctor about 6 times since the post and to the Chiropractor a couple times so I haven't got it done...I haven't even bought the PVC yet.
Hopefully, I'll get it done in the next couple of weeks.
Sorry about your physical challenges, hope everything gets resolved soon. Good luck on the install when you get to it.
Curtis
A trick I use to cut a at a right angle to the pipe is to turn the blade so that it faces in. This way the handle hangs under your cut and helps to straight. Puts the center of gravity below the cut as it were.