Ok this will be my first summer with my magna. Which brand and weight of oil is best for the texas heat. First gen.
Jim
If you do a search for "OIL" there will be a few threads with varying opinions. The main thing you do not want to purchase an oil with ENERGY CONSERVING in the bottom of the round circle on the back of the bottle. Look at 10W30 and you will see the "saying".
In a nutshell;
Synthetics are good for extended oil changes, normally by at least double. Mobile makes a synthetic with a guarantee of 15,000 mile between changes.
Shell Rotella T is a Heavy Duty Diesel oil (meets gas engine requirements also) is economically priced and will give you extended change intervals also.
The regular oils as mentioned in the first paragraph and motorcycle specific oils, though these are not recommended for extended oil intervals.
Get your popcorn and indulge in some reading!!
This is Under the FAQ SECTION of this forum.
All you ever wanted to know about Oils and Filters
a. http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
b. Consumer Reports oil testing http://smokeriders.com/surprising_truth.htm
c. http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/purolator.shtml
d. http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html (Mopar site but good info on oil filters)
e. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm (Generic testing on air filters)
It has been my experience that Motorcycle specific oils, especially synthetics, keep the shifts smoother, and clutch happier.
Over 30k miles with Honda GN4. Since I change my oil pretty often I figure the factory stuff must be ok. I recently added the kevlar clutch and it seems to be ok with that oil also.
I didn't want to start a new thread on such an old topic.
There is a video on the Victory Owners Group forum about which oil to use. The forum admin asked a Victory Dealer which oil to use. Surprise, surprise, the Dealer says to use Victory oil. But, he did go into an explanation of why he recommended it, and he emphasized that his recommendation was for Victory bikes only. My ignorance on this topic is legion. What do some of you lube heads think?
http://thevog.net/forums/display_topic/id_2995/ (http://thevog.net/forums/display_topic/id_2995/)
This is just a wag, but it's highly likely that the oil company and Victory got together and picked a nice logo to put on the bottle and poured there oil in it. The Freon pitch sounds more like it came from the sales department. Whatever cools your engine be it water or air, is what cools your oil, IM_O, notice I left out the H :D no use lying :D :D..
Any site you go to, you will find long threads of endless debates on this topic...
I personally use a synthetic oil made for motorcycles..
I have recommended to others to not use the same oil.. and other to use the same oil..
The answer is ... The answer is different for each bike owner...
If you only ride less than 5K miles per year, then a good conventional oil is probably fine as you will only be changing oil once to twice a year anyways..
I average 10K/year and my wife about 8K per year.. So I went with Synthetic.. It cost more, but I only change my oil once a year (No need for comments on this from the peanut gallery)...
The Motorcycle specific oil has better rust and corrosion inhibitors in it and is part of the reason I use it..
I'm a little confused on your post.. You say "1st gen" in your post, but then there is a picture of a 3rd gen.. :???:
I know someone close to me that pays for synthetic, and then changes it every 3K miles.. I'm thinking about changing his oil for free, and re-using the oil in my bikes.. I can use it for 3K-5K miles and get it for free!!! Just the cost of a new filter!!!
Speaking of Filters, this is a commonly overlooked area.. Although the Magna book recommends 7K mile oil changes (you did look that up right??? :shock: ) If you are going to run extended periods, then you should replace the filter at about 7K ( or about half your interval mileage) and top off the oil.. IM_O.. Which filter is another can of worms that you may not want to open for times sake!!
I don't know if this helps... But understand that you are going to get such passionate opinions from each individual and all of then can not be right.. SO you have to decide what is comfortable for you between quality of the oil, cost, and change frequency.. Then stick to it, because you have thought it through for yourself..
I haven't figured out if Charles left all that space in his post for effect (if so, I didn't get it --someone will have to explain), or
His return key is sticking...
Royal Purple I need not say anymore :cool: :cool: :cool: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :P :P Just messing with ya like has been said as long as the changes are made at the intervals they all will work !!!
QuoteI haven't figured out if Charles left all that space in his post for effect (if so, I didn't get it --someone will have to explain), or
His return key is sticking...
I have no idea what your talking about!! :roll:
I guess I sounded a little cynical and mistrusting, but in another life I hauled gas for Shell Oil Co. We picked up gas from where ever, I set in line behind transport trucks from several different Companies besides Shell. I sold welding alloys for Delta-Tron who formulated special alloys for specific welding problems for Companies Like Texas Utilities, I quit when I found out that our specially formulated rods came a mfg who simply put our Co's color codes on their rods. I toured a plant that packaged for several different companies out of the same line by simply changing name brands. I believe that there is a difference in quality of products and that that are specific oils for specific applications I don't however believe that every company that sells a product under their on label, has their very own special formula. Sorry just call me the doubting Thomas!!
When I started my career in electronics, I went to work for Sylvania. I was shocked to learn that vacuum tube manufacturers, like Sylvania, tooled up to make a particular tube on a particular schedule, then contacted everyone else who sold that tube to see how many they wanted! Sylvania would make 12AX7 tubes with their logo, then a batch with RCA logo, then GE, then ... anyway, you get the idea. All the other manufacturers did the same. There were stocks of boxes printed up and delivered for packaging with each company's design on them. Then they had the unmitigated gall to advertise that their tubes were better, more reliable, obtained longer life, whatever. What a crock!
The practice continued for a short while with individual transistors, then virtually died out when integrated circuits took off.
When my sons were young, we arranged on two occasions a tour of the GM plant in Arlington, Texas. It was fascinating, too. There would be a Chevrolet, then an Oldsmobile, then a Buick, two more Chevrolets, then a Cadillac or two, coming off the line one after another. So don't talk to me about Cadillac workmanship! The same guys welded the top on the Cadillac that welded one on a Chevrolet, using the same materials and the same tools.
In the little town where I grew up, I had observed the same unmarked gasoline tanker truck unloading at the Gulf station, the Mobile station, and the Texaco station, all in the middle of the night, so I was aware of the practice in gasoline before I even left home.
So I don't know how this boils down to oils. I have paid dearly for motorcycle specific oils, and wonder whether I am being taken for a ride in more ways than one...
Quote from: lragan on November 22, 2009, 08:03:39 PM
I haven't figured out if Charles left all that space in his post for effect (if so, I didn't get it --someone will have to explain), or
His return key is sticking...
Thanks for asking Lawrence...I was wondering also!!!!
Quote from: lragan on November 22, 2009, 10:01:11 PM
So I don't know how this boils down to oils. I have paid dearly for motorcycle specific oils, and wonder whether I am being taken for a ride in more ways than one...
The best you can do is go directly to the company that you know manufactures the product..
They are much more likely to produce the best product under there name and equal or less quality to others - preserving their brand name being paramount.. (at least in theory if anyone has a brain at the company!!!)
This is one of the reasons I use Amsoil.. They do manufacture their own.. Of course they manufacture it from components that they have to rely on other companies for.. We can only hope there is a quality check before the components are used in the manufacturing process...
May the bashing begin..
Annnndddd well Royal Purple makes there own to and are Texas proud!!!! I have heard alot of good things about Amsoil too though :cool: :cool: :cool:
The practice of selling the exact same product from the same production line under various brand names and through different companies is pretty common practice no matter which industry you're talking about.
As for oil, the last mechanic who worked on my engine put in conventional oil (which brand, I don't know). I'm paranoid as hell my cam's are going to go bad again, so I change my oil about every 3,000 miles with mobile motorcycle synthetic, although the only weight available at our hobby shop is 20W-40. Costs about $40 to bring the oil capacity to within operating limits.
Quote from: roboto65 on November 23, 2009, 05:32:39 AM
Annnndddd well Royal Purple makes there own to and are Texas proud!!!! I have heard alot of good things about Amsoil too though :cool: :cool: :cool:
Based entirely on my respect for your opinions, Allen, I went looking in Austin for Royal Purple. The first auto parts store I asked directed me to another, and when I got there, they told me that Royal Purple had pulled their distributorship, in favor of "Mom & Pop" stores. So I went to the web site, and found three dealers in Austin. I went to each -- they were all in residential neighborhoods and there was nobody home. :???: :???:
I gave up and went to Amsoil...
Lawrence they had to go to the mom and pop stores because the guy that puts the purple food coloing in E-Z mart oil and pours it into the Royal Purple containers couldn't keep up with chain store orders. I heard his brother-in-law quit and left him in a bind!! :D :D :D
Quote from: lragan on November 23, 2009, 08:53:15 AM
I gave up and went to Amsoil...
Also for $10 / year you can become a preferred customer and get the same prices as the people who sell Amsoil, order directly from the warehouse and either have it shipped to you or pick it up and save the shipping, and get a periodic Magazine..
You just don't get the check back from volume of sale like a dealer.
BTW - the Warehouse for Texas is in Dallas
2234 Commerce Dr
Arlington, TX 76011
Shoot, there are enough of you in the Dallas area, you can all chip in $2 each and all order at the discount price and someone can pick the orders up at the warehouse...
OR, Chip in $4 each and someone become a dealer and split any checks between the group..
(I'm not saying that Amsoil would like that, but I'm sure it happens within groups)
Sorry to hear that Lawrence I get mine for FREE LOL well except the first change on the Valk and I think Greg and I got it AutoZone or Oreillys right by his house. I do like RP and would pay if the supply ever drys up :cool: :cool:
Here is something I read regarding royal purple a while back. Kinda scared me away from the stuff. May not be an issue with our motorcycles though....IDK.
Common knowledge among previous users such as myself that Royal Purple is crap oil. I've only lost one engine ever (4G63 in my 1998 Eclipse) and it was while using Royal Purple. In fact that summer three people I know (including me) all spun rod bearings using that oil. I have never used it again and never will. I tried Amsoil once with my SRT-4 and it was the only time that car ever used oil between an oil change. The main reason I stick to Mobil 1 is that it just works and is proven. I don't care about the ads showing private lab results or guys claiming hp gains on a dyno. Mobil 1 does the job and is the factory approved oil for my car.
royal purple oil not as good as you think
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just thought id share my experiences with you guys, i have a few customers that run royal purple and ran into the same problem. they all burn oil rather quickly. had a s2000 come in with valve train noise, dealer said it was the timing chain tensioner, but when i looked it over, it was 4qts low on oil. he was using royal purple, 6k miles burned 4 qts.
last week i had a sti come in he said hes low a quart of oil every 2-3 days, also using royal purple. no oil leaks so changed the oil and let him go. did a follow-up call today and the new oil completely fixed the problem.
just thought you guys might like to know....i know a lot of people like royal purple and have no problems but i wouldnt use it....
I used to use RP for everything, then I noticed that the oil actually foams, which for an oil is a really bad thing... I would actually see bubbles on the dipstick when I would check my oil.... after seeing that, and reading about AMSoil, I have since switched to AMSoil and love it.....
Lance - that much oil usage is almost unbelievable especially if the engine didn't use any oil before.. It makes me question the truth of the article.
I will say that Synthetics will leak through gaskets where regular oil will not.. This tells me that it does actually work itself into smaller places than regular oil..
Oil leaks have not been a problem on the Magna, and I have more then 40K of running Amsoil so far with annual oil changes.. I can also run the full 10K miles without adding to the level..
At over 70K miles, no oil usage is pretty good!!! :-D
Don't get me wrong Hoot, I don't know if it is good oil or not. I'm just giving everyone another view on this specific oil. I look up info on all the oils I use and I came across this Royal Purple info awhile back. I personally use Mobil 1 in my vehicles and Rotella in my bike. :grin:
I have used RP in alot of cars trucks and Motorcycles from XR 80 on it's last legs to Vtwins to V4s to Flat six and have never had a problem with it!! I am not easy on things and do not follow the line so to speak as in we had RP Diesel straight 40w oil and used it in my V Star and in my Magna both of them. I have NEVER seen foaming but hey not saying it could not happen just never had so much of a hiccup with all the transportation I have used it in including our Tug Boats and we run those pretty much 24hrs a day I have never heard of a failure on our boats because of oil either..
Hey to each his own this is one of those debates that will go on till the end of time !!!!!
I have been using castrol syntec
10W30 or 10W40, which everone doesn't have the friction modifiers in it that will make your clutch slip.
Quote from: Len Averyt on December 07, 2009, 07:01:20 PM
I have been using castrol syntec
10W30 or 10W40, which everone doesn't have the friction modifiers in it that will make your clutch slip.
That would be 10W40.