I saw a rider stopped in a driveway this evening on my way home. I stopped to see if he needed any help and found that he was just waiting for his young son to take him riding.
He was on a rather tired looking V-45. We talked for a while and he told me he had a tappet clicking on one of the fronts. He was asking if I had any clearance data for the valves. I suspect the info is the same for my V-65, but wanted to check before giving any specs.
Thanks guys,
Trent
If no one responds.
Under the FAQ Section under Manuals there should be a Service Manual you can download.
Thanks Terry.
I'll keep trying there. I get a message that a connection to the server could not be established. I'll have to go over my settings. the .nu may be causing a security problem. No rush.
Thanks for the tip. LOTS of good stuff in there!
Trent
If your on dial-up it may take too long. If that's the case let me know I can DL, burn a CD and mail it to you. I have seen manuals their but don't know if it has the info you seek.
These are here the files you are looking for. If you can't DL from the .nu than this may not help.
When I emailed myself these links they worked....not working here though. PM your email and I will email you these and if need you can email to the other fellow.
# '82-'85 V45 Sabre, Magna Service Manual
(1a) Self-extracting factory manual (1 file, 311.2 MB)
(1b) OR the RAR version (factory manual) (32 files, 317.0 MB total):
.rar file (10 MB) .r15 file (10 MB)
.r00 file (10 MB) .r16 file (10 MB)
.r01 file (10 MB) .r17 file (10 MB)
.r02 file (10 MB) .r18 file (10 MB)
.r03 file (10 MB) .r19 file (10 MB)
.r04 file (10 MB) .r20 file (10 MB)
.r05 file (10 MB) .r21 file (10 MB)
.r06 file (10 MB) .r22 file (10 MB)
.r07 file (10 MB) .r23 file (10 MB)
.r08 file (10 MB) .r24 file (10 MB)
.r09 file (10 MB) .r25 file (10 MB)
.r10 file (10 MB) .r26 file (10 MB)
.r11 file (10 MB) .r27 file (10 MB)
.r12 file (10 MB) .r28 file (10 MB)
.r13 file (10 MB) .r29 file (10 MB)
.r14 file (10 MB) .r30 file (7 MB)
***REVISED MEASUREMENTS***
DRP has tightened the tolerances by .001" since the procedure was placed on the net. You now want .003" between the lobe and the rocker, which equates to .005 at the valve tips. In the end you want no less than .004 (tight) and no more than .006 at the valve tips. He posted this to the list on 10-7-99.
Dave Dodges method
Posted by Dave Dodge on April 14, 1998 at 21:28:13:
Over the years I have developed a method of adjusting the valves on V-4's that is accurate and quick. The crank and rotor position is the same using the rotor TDC marks. Make sure that the cylinder you are adjusting the valves for is on TDC compression stroke. On the rear cylinders the cam lobes will be pointing AWAY from each other, and on the front cylinder the lobes will be facing UP and slightly towards each other when the particular cylinder to be adjusted is at the correct position.
**IMPORTANT** Note revised measurements below.
Loosen and back off the adjusting nuts on the intake and exhaust rockers. Place a .004" feeler gauge between the cam lobe and rocker arm. Snug down the adjusting screws (with your fingers) until each screw just touches the valve tip, then move the feeler gauge back and forth to make sure there is drag (not tight/not loose) and tighten the nuts with a wrench. Now recheck the clearance at the valve with a .006" feeler gauge. The feel should be a snug .006" or a loose .005". Re-adjust the screw if you dont get this feel on all four valves. Use same procedure on remaining three cylinders.
There is a 1.5 to 1 rocker arm ratio, so .004" at the cam gives you a snug .006" at the valve. This procedure reduces the risk of uneven rocker adjustment. Once you get the feel of a snug .006" clearance, you will find you have proper setting for long cam life and minimal (if any) clatter. IMPORTANT: I always torque the adjusting nuts to 15 ft.lbs. Tighten the nuts with a wrench enough so they wont come loose, then rotate engine until rocker arm depresses valve about half way. This will allow room for the torque wrench and the pressure against the adjusting screw will keep it from turning while you are torqueing.
Thanks guys!
This should do the trick, I'm sure.
I will see if I can find him tomorrow evening and see how the project is coming.
Trent