Hello all.. Looking at purchasing SS brake lines for the magna.. I have found 2 different brake lines in my Dennis Kirk magazine. Both SS. However, one says it is for 96-99 magna's and it is $31.00. The other says it is for 94-2003 magna's and it is $70.00. Was there a difference in the lines from 96-99, or could I purchase these?? They are SS and are significantly cheaper. :-D Aren't all the bikes the same regarding brake line lengths, etc..?? Lance
do you have a link?
thanks
jess
Lance, from all I can see, all the 3rd gen year models use the same pieces parts.
I just this morning installed a new SS brake line from Dave Dodge, which I paid $49 plus $5.60 shipping by USPS.
It is part number GDR-7348M-FK. I laid it out against the stock line before I put it on, at it is precisely the same length. I haven't ridden the bike yet, but put in the HH sintered pads at the same time. Wish I had put in the pads, ridden, then the SS line and ridden again, to get some idea of which did what.
What I did not get is all the grommets and protective tubing that came on the stock line. I found an old grommet in my scrap bin that I used for one of them (Had to cut it, of course. The stock line has the ends suaged on after the grommets, etc. are installed.)
Thought I would never get the system bled. I don't have a brake bleeder, but I finally cleaned up a pump oil can and ran fluid up from the bottom. Then I pumped at least three reservoirs through with no bubbles into a scrap bucket. Used nearly an entire can of DOT-4. There's gotta be a better way...
Maybe I just need a much longer bleed line. Used to have the same problem on brakes on a light aircraft I owned. Fixed it by running a long bleed line all the way back up to the reservoir, and pumping until there were no bubbles in the line. Shoulda thought of that before now!! :-)
Thanks Lawrence for the info... I looked on line today at Dennis Kirk and all they show is the $70.00 line for sale.. In my 2007 catalog however, there is another vendor that sales a SS line for 96-99 magna's for the $30.00 dollar price.. Hmmm.. I guess I need to call Dave dodge.. I was kind of stunned by the shipping problems people were having... so I was looking elsewhere.. I know, I know... :lol:
Talk to Dave about delivery time if it is an issue with you. He did mention that he had "only one in stock" last week when I ordered mine. You should ask if it is on back order, or if he makes them up himself, I don't know who actually manufactures the part.
Well, I took it for a short ride -- couldn't stand it, even if is is hot today. After a few stops to "wear in" the new pads, it stops on a dime.
I don't know if a panic stop would be any shorter or not, but I can assure you that it feels much more solid, and you don't have to squeeze the right grip 'til the oil seeps out of the plastic!!
Now I suppose the next "must have" is a set of progressive springs... :cool:
Quote from: lragan on August 26, 2008, 02:57:17 PM
Well, I took it for a short ride -- couldn't stand it, even if is is hot today. After a few stops to "wear in" the new pads, it stops on a dime.
I don't know if a panic stop would be any shorter or not, but I can assure you that it feels much more solid, and you don't have to squeeze the right grip 'til the oil seeps out of the plastic!!
Now I suppose the next "must have" is a set of progressive springs... :cool:
I was just logging on to post a question about the grommets and protective rubber covering when I saw your post here on the same topic...Could you cut the oem grommet located on the fender brake line bracket and re-use it? Is it possible to slip the OEM grommet over the hardware end of the DD cable and re-use it? Also, did you bother replacing the tie up near the tree that holds the brake and speedo cables? I would like to have everything on hand before I yank the OEM cable off. Thanks.
Joe
I installed the SS lines on my magna and definately felt the difference. Go buy a vacuum pump for bleeding from the parts store. Its worth the money and you may use it in the future. I found the rubber grommets didn't go over the end of the lines. So I just cut the old one with a razor and wrapped it on the new line. After wrapping it just run a bit of electrical tape around the grommets and wedge into the holder. Works great and no one can tell. Yes use new tie wraps for the line and cables on the triple tree. Might want to look into the SS clutch line too. Love mine
Quote from: Magna86 on August 26, 2008, 07:40:58 PM
I installed the SS lines on my magna and definately felt the difference. Go buy a vacuum pump for bleeding from the parts store. Its worth the money and you may use it in the future. I found the rubber grommets didn't go over the end of the lines. So I just cut the old one with a razor and wrapped it on the new line. After wrapping it just run a bit of electrical tape around the grommets and wedge into the holder. Works great and no one can tell. Yes use new tie wraps for the line and cables on the triple tree. Might want to look into the SS clutch line too. Love mine
Thanks for the tips. I actually did buy a pump a month or so ago and used it to bleed the old fluid; it worked great. $40 but worth every penny, considering it should last me for years. The SS clutch line is next on the list. Thanks again.
Joe
How embarrassing!! I own a vacuum pump -- have had it for 20+ years for Air Conditioner work.
So I will continue to display my ignorance. How do you use it without pumping brake fluid into/through it?? Do you just suck on the bleed line with the bleed valve open??? :???:
Quote from: lragan on August 26, 2008, 11:05:38 PM
How embarrassing!! I own a vacuum pump -- have had it for 20+ years for Air Conditioner work.
So I will continue to display my ignorance. How do you use it without pumping brake fluid into/through it?? Do you just suck on the bleed line with the bleed valve open??? :???:
On mine at least, it works like this... from right to left, pump gun attaches to a short plastic piece of tubing which in turn attaches to a plastic jar top which has two outlet pipes. A longer piece of tubing attaches to the other outlet pipe on the jar top. That tubing connects either directly to the bleeder valve on your brake or a little adapter is put on the bleeder valve tip in case your tubing is a different size than the your bleeder valve tip; my pump came with several adapters.
Start some suction by pumping the gun a few times, then open up the bleeder valve, and continue pumping. The brake fluid will run into the plastic jar that is attached to the jar top described above. Continue to add brake fluid into the master cylinder while pumping out the old stuff. When done, just wash the hoses and jar with some soap and water and air dry. Hope this helps.
Joe
Thanks, Joe. I think this may be what is also known as a "brake bleeder" set -- with the collection jar and all, that makes perfect sense.
My powered vacuum pump for A/C service is irrelevant to this discussion. I will look for a brake bleeder kit to add to my tool collection. Perhaps I can find one at a bargain...
Harbor freight has them for 34 to 37 dollars they are worth the money.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photo Item Description Price
38053-5VGA
Mityvac BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT $33.99
39522-8VGA
Mityvac MITYVAC VACUUM PUMP $36.99
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Thanks, Jerry
Lawrence,
I was unable to get mine to pump up also and I am not patient. After 3 days of jacking with it a little each night. I did the reverse with a syringe and pushed fluid from the caliper back up to the MC, than bleed the traditional way.
Terry, I used an oil can with a pump in it. It was about out of 90 weight oil which I use on my chain, so I dumped the rest of the oil, rinsed it with gasoline, rinsed it three times with brake fluid, and pumped brake fluid up from the bottom. It feels solid now, and there were no bubbles in at least two reservoirs full of brake fluid pumped through it the normal way.
Nonetheless, I am going to buy a "vacuum pump" type brake bleeder. Can also use it on my cages. Just haven't been to town to check out the prices at Harbor Freight. Sometimes the catalog is cheaper, and sometimes the local store, on the same item. Go figure!
If your talking about Harbor freight, you do know that you can print out the online catolog price and they will honor it at the store, at least they will at our store.
Quote from: mainerider on August 26, 2008, 07:09:16 PM
I was just logging on to post a question about the grommets and protective rubber covering when I saw your post here on the same topic...Could you cut the oem grommet located on the fender brake line bracket and re-use it? Is it possible to slip the OEM grommet over the hardware end of the DD cable and re-use it? Also, did you bother replacing the tie up near the tree that holds the brake and speedo cables? I would like to have everything on hand before I yank the OEM cable off. Thanks.
Joe
Joe, I tried to slide the OEM grommet over the banjo fitting on the end, without success. I could barely get it to slide over the rubber outer cover of the brake line!
The grommet I found I had to cut. The only reason I haven't cut the OEM grommets off is a little silly, I guess. I want to leave the OEM unit intact in case someone wants one. If I can't find useable grommets at Radio Shack or Fry's (the main use of them has historically been to protect wires from edges of chassis holes in electronic equipment) then I will cut the ones off the OEM line and install them on the SS line.
Just confirming Lawrence's experience. I had to cut the stock grommet, as it would not fit over the banjos, and getting the tubing over the banjos took a bit of wrangling and cussing.
As for bleeding, I have a Mity Vac, but found the easiest way for me to get 'em bled was to use patience and gravity. I've changed my brakeline twice now. The first time I used the MityVac, but found it was easier to add the inital fluid, pull the hell out of the lever until the fluid found it's way into the caliper, then let it sit for about 30 minutes and let gravity fill the caliper and allow the majority of the air to weep out (it will stop bubbling), just watch the resevoir so it doesn't go too low. Then put the drain plug in, work up some pressure with the lever, and do a couple of "normal" bleeds with the lever and plug.
Rod...
I used to have a Ducati 907ie that I always had trouble bleeding the brakes. I read somewhere to zip tie the brake lever down and leave it for a day or two. That always worked for me.
Magnatic, Let me ask a stupid question.. Did you pump the brakes before you tied off the lever, or did it without any pressure to the lever? :???:
I could not get much pressure to build up, so I just zip-tied it down tight to the handlebar, and left it
alone. It was at least 24 hours later when I got to it, then I cut the zip-tie and it was good to go,
nice and firm. I did this at least 2-3 times and it worked every time.
Shoot.. That works for me. Let it do it's thing itself!! :lol: Just reminder to self, do this when it is 10 degrees and snowing outside..
With the handle all the way down, there is a way for air bubbles to work their way to the top. The whole problem is that air is lighter than brake fluid, so it wants to go up, and in pumping the brake actuator, or pulling via a vacuum pump from the bottom, we are pulling the air bubbles down. Depending on temperature, brake fluid used, size of the line, etc. the bubbles may or may not work their way to the top without interference.
That is why pumping fluid up from the bottom works -- it pushes the air bubbles in the same direction that they want to go anyway.
Nonetheless, I was at Harbor Freight today, and bought a brake bleeding kit with valve on sale for $19.95. May be a waste of money, I don't know. An oil can with pump in it pushing from the bottom works pretty well... :cool:
The only thing I see wrong with the ziptie method is if you are leaving the cover off during that 24 or so hours. Brake fluid is hydroscopic hope I got that right meaning it absorbs water so the longer you leave that cover off the more water it absorbs from the air and if you live in Texas :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol: you know thats alot during this time of the year LOL
Quote from: roboto65 on August 28, 2008, 05:55:17 PM
The only thing I see wrong with the ziptie method is if you are leaving the cover off during that 24 or so hours. Brake fluid is hydroscopic hope I got that right meaning it absorbs water so the longer you leave that cover off the more water it absorbs from the air and if you live in Texas :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol: you know thats alot during this time of the year LOL
Close enough, Allen. The word you are looking for is hygroscopic. Hydroscopic is the ability to see underwater. Your point is well taken, though.
The bigger point for me is my impatience. I don't want to wait a day for the whole thing to settle out. I want to finish it and ride NOW!! :lol:
Quote from: Lurkin on August 28, 2008, 08:36:27 AM
Just confirming Lawrence's experience. I had to cut the stock grommet, as it would not fit over the banjos, and getting the tubing over the banjos took a bit of wrangling and cussing.
As for bleeding, I have a Mity Vac, but found the easiest way for me to get 'em bled was to use patience and gravity. I've changed my brakeline twice now. The first time I used the MityVac, but found it was easier to add the inital fluid, pull the hell out of the lever until the fluid found it's way into the caliper, then let it sit for about 30 minutes and let gravity fill the caliper and allow the majority of the air to weep out (it will stop bubbling), just watch the resevoir so it doesn't go too low. Then put the drain plug in, work up some pressure with the lever, and do a couple of "normal" bleeds with the lever and plug.
Rod...
Hey Rod,
I take it you were able to slip the OEM brakeline rubber overcoat off and then you put it over the new SS line? Thanks.
Joe
BTW,
Did you all see a big improvement with the SS line? I ask because I've already seen a big improvement by changing the fluid out; it hadn't been done by the prior owner and was 5 years/14,000 miles old. I've seen soda with fewer bubbles than what came out when I bled it :)
I guess my more focused question is how much additional improvement should I expect to see with the SS line ? Thanks.
Joe
I am a poor experimenter, I fear. I made two changes at once -- the new HH sintered pads AND the new SS brake line. Together they made an awesome difference, but I can't quantify which one was the most effective.
Joe, I had to clip one end off the cover in order to get it to start, after that it was just "convincing" it.
Rod.
Installed new SS brake line last night.. :shock: :shock: Very impressed. Used a brake bleeder kit. Worked great. :-D