Are we supposed to check the oil in our magna's with the dipstick screwed in and level? Or check it with the dipstick not screwed in?? :???: With my dipstick not screwed in and level, it is at the full mark.. Is this correct??
I believe I have looked this up in my handbook, and have owned a couple of Honda's.
The standard is unscrew the dipstick, wipe with a cloth, level the bike, put the dip stick in, but do NOT screw in, remove and note the level.
I usually turn the Dipstick counter clockwise while it is inserted since it is at an angle, but that is just my thing, and not a Honda thing.
Thanks Hootman.. If this is the case, my bike might be a little over full.. :shock: It is a little above the full mark with the dipstick not screwed in.. Better drain some out I guess...
Sorry for the dumb question, I guess i should know this by now.. I just wanted to make sure.. Call me paranoid.. :-D
It depends how "Overfull" you are... if it was 1/8" or so over, I wouldn't worry about it.. If you are 1/2" above... I would drain some out.
Quote from: hootmon on September 10, 2008, 12:15:10 PM
It depends how "Overfull" you are... if it was 1/8" or so over, I wouldn't worry about it.. If you are 1/2" above... I would drain some out.
It is indeed supposed to be checked without being screwed in; I had that same question and found the answer in the Honda General Service Manual.
Joe
My understanding is that you are supposed to check the level as described above AFTER you have the bike at operating temperature.
Jess
. . . and sitting on a Cycle-istiC Centerstand. :lol:
Quote from: Jester on September 11, 2008, 12:03:10 PM
My understanding is that you are supposed to check the level as described above AFTER you have the bike at operating temperature.
Jess
Typically, you should warm it up for at least 2-3 minutes, shut it down and check it after a few minutes.
Quote from: Magniac on September 11, 2008, 02:26:06 PM
. . . and sitting on a Cycle-istiC Centerstand. :lol:
I know that's one of the reasons I will be very glad when I finally get mine installed. :cool:
The other is at last being able to fix the the screwed-up rear alignment the dealer left me with. :mad:
I have seen posts with people attaching either (Straight) PVC pipe or Copper pipe to their rear wheel that extend to or past the front wheel. This allows them to adjust the rear wheel to be inline with the front wheel...
My dad had a CB550 and used to measure from the swing arm to the axel on each side, to insure the same distance (The marks on the swing arm were not accurate!!!) But I have found this method difficult on the Magna due to the exhaust...
I am not sure, but I think they must have interchanged some spacers on the rear axle. Like you say, those four exhausts sure do get in the way of checking alignment against the swingarm. (But, man, do they look good!) In any event, I sure want that centerstand on before I hit the open road. Checking oil, being able to maintain and/or adjust the chain alone, or dealing with tire or wheel issues will be so much easier with it on, I may just have to have a celebratory self-medication session at my favorite Mexican restaurant! :cool:
If you check the oil on the Center stand, won't the bike be tilted forward changing the oil level at the dipstick?
Honda Designed the dipstick for level ground, I would think...
True, but I think a 2" difference over the length of the wheelbase would probably have less effect than wobbling I get when tyring to keep the bike straight while checking it myself. Also, some of the error might be taken out by sliding a 1" board under the front wheel. I should check the level before and after installation to see how far off the readings are. May even make a scribemark for the corresponding level for when the bike is on the sidestand.
Quote from: Guy Gadois on September 18, 2008, 11:34:32 AM
... May even make a scribemark for the corresponding level for when the bike is on the sidestand.
I think the reason they marked the dipstick for vertical reference is that the variations on the sidestand are too high -- weight, side stand spring tension, tire size, inflation pressure, etc. all affect the reading -- unless the bike is level left to right and front to back.
I can sit astride the bike, hold it level with my feet, and read the oil level, no sweat. I just reach down with my right hand to lift the dipstick out.
I have been checking mine cold, however. It is part of my regular pre-ride check list.
As the bike warms up, I see two countervailing effects on the oil:
1) Oil has a slightly positive temperature coefficient of expansion, so the volume goes up with the temperature.
2) Some of the oil will be left in other parts of the engine, not the sump, if you don't let it settle after running the engine.
Has anyone checked to see what difference accrues to cold and warm readings?
WARNING - I'm going to be NON scientific NOW...
I have checked mine hot (allowing drain time) and cold and if there is difference, it's not significant enough for me to worry about... If it changes the level a 1/4" is anybody sweating it??? I'm not THAT anal... My bike with $50K+ miles uses nearly no oil.. In a year (10K miles average) I might add a cups worth... So I usually check it cold, as level as I can make it, spin the dip stick counterclockwise. To insure levelness left to right, I usually rest the Kickstand on part of my foot while I'm Leaning. I can feel more/less pressure on my foot and know if I'm beginning to lean...
So long as there is not drastic differences in oil level... I'm off enjoying a ride...
You have it right, Hoot. The differences are "noise" on the signal of oil level. I do the same thing, by the way, and have added 10K miles to my '96 without damage (from oil deficiency, at least :smile:).
Thanks for the empirical data on conditions. Good enough for me. :cool:
Sounds reasonable to me, Lawrence. If we're all agreed, we can keep this thread from going as long as that "other thread" (pointing at the Regulator thread with mortified expression). :oops:
Sort of begs the definition of "dipstick" huh? :-D :lol:
Quote from: Guy Gadois on September 18, 2008, 04:56:58 PM
Sounds reasonable to me, Lawrence. If we're all agreed, we can keep this thread from going as long as that "other thread" (pointing at the Regulator thread with mortified expression). :oops:
I don't agree..........if your oil level is not exactly on the gnat's ear..........um, er...............your ENGINE will explode!!! Yeah, that's it.........EXPLODE!!! :shock: :P :P
Curtis
If it's a little bit low it will stop running at 50 miles per hour and if it's a little over full it will stop running at 60 miles per hour other than that it's fine.
Well if it's over full and you have to drain some of it out, for pete sake put it back in the refinery barrel it came from :D..
Just remember that used oil is a carcinogen, so wear your hazmat suit and stop by decon as soon as you're done. :grin: :shock: :shock:
Curtis
QuoteJust remember that used oil is a carcinogen, so wear your hazmat suit and stop by decon as soon as you're done.
Unless it is Royal Purple then it is all good :lol: :lol: :cool:
Thanks for answering my question guys... :shock: :? :lol:
Hey Robert, Just how much stock do you have in Royal purple ? :D
You mean Allen LOL none but should have some heck they should make me a partner :lol: :lol: :cool:
I put Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my bike last oil change.. Talking to Dave Dodge regarding SS brake line last week, he told me not to use this oil.. He said he don't approve of the 5w part of the oil. Said I need to at least put a 10w in it.. Just FYI.. He said he really likes the Valvoline durablend oil.. Or just stick to traditional dino Rotella 10w-40. Thought you guys might want to know this.. :grin: I can't seem to find a synthetic rotella 10w-40 anywhere as well.
Ok.. Her is my oil input.. (techies will enjoy the read!!)
read the following literature http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf (http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf)
It documents all the standard test against most major oils used in Motorcycles.
It explains what each standard test is designed to indicate and the results for each oil in that category.
It also breaks the tests into two groups 40 and 50 weights.
One thought of mine is if you only put less than 5K miles a year on a motorcycle, probably cheaper Dino oil is fine.
The more miles per year you put on the bike, the more synthetic makes since.
I use Amsoil 20/50 motorcycle oil personally.. (10/40 is fine, but since I live in HOT Florida, I prefer the 50).
I put right at 10K per year, and change my oil once a year in Early May (just before the Summer season).
I have had the oil tested and all parameters come well within spec. at the end of the year cycle. So the extra expense is worth it to me so I only have to do it once a year, AND gain some of the added benefits of the better oil product.
I am NOT saying everyone should use AMSOIL, you should consider your milage pattern, read the literature, and decide for yourself which product/price makes since for you.
Good write-up Hoot. :D I have read somewhere else where someone has used 50w oil as well.. I have almost bought 50w but always end up buying 40w. It get hot on occasion here in Arkansas, but not like in Florida.. Any more opinions on using 50w oil vs 40w oil?? Maybe on an engine with more than 50,000 miles?? (Did we just start a new oil thread.. 8))
soooooooooooooooo.... now what do we talk about? :shock:
OK Jester - I'll bite...
Well, we still have...
Coolant
Chain Oil/wax
fork oil
brake fluid
grease
we could start on how to measure them correctly (if that applies), then move on to preferences... :-P
Then we have chains - Brands, o-ring, x-ring, no ring
Then we have polishes, Metal, paint, rubber, vinyl, chrome, Plexiglas
Then we have tires, brands, Bias, Radial, tread patterns...
Anyone want to start a new subject??? :lol:
I got it! I got! This one actually came up at work. Do magnetic tankbags (drumroll) cause... the metal flakes in metallic paint to float to the surface?
If they do, what's the worst that could happen? Noxious fumes? Scintillation that sparks an explosion of gasoline fumes? Cold fusion?
They magnetize the metal flakes so 1/2 float up, and 1/2 are repelled down, so you wind up with a normal balance and can't tell the difference... :-P :roll: ;)
Here's one you know that you can use the chrome dipstick off the Valkerie on the 3rd Gens.....
Quote from: roboto65 on September 19, 2008, 04:09:10 PM
Here's one you know that you can use the chrome dipstick off the Valkerie on the 3rd Gens.....
REALLY!! Well, I guess Greg C. and Curtis will have to keep a close eye on their dipsticks! :cool: :lol:
That chromed radiator on a Valkyrie looks like a close cousin to the one on the Magna, too... :mrgreen:
Is the whole dipstick chrome or just the top screw handle part? and where can I get one?
Curtis has two of them he won't miss one of them.
The chrome ignition switch houseing off a Valk is a good swap too..............WAIT, WHAT AM I SAYING??????????????? :oops: :roll: :oops: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Curtis
:twisted: :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol: OH it,s on like Donkey Kong :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Allen if ya feel like wrestling with a bear......Then GO RIGHT ahead and come get after my chrome dipstick or radiator cover :lol: :lol: :shock:
Yep they will work but the dipstick needs some modifications. I put one on Devs bike when I owned it the first time. The Valk stick is too long so you have to cut it down to size, then I put the last bit into my vice and flattened it like the stock unit. Pulled out my trusty hacksaw and made a low and high level line. VOILA looks like it was made for the Magna!
Quote from: Jester on September 20, 2008, 02:41:09 AM
Is the whole dipstick chrome or just the top screw handle part? and where can I get one?
Greg answered the first part, I'll take the second: http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=388&str=2&ID=859691956
(http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/bbp10.jpg)
Curtis
P.S. Actually, a variation on Greg's length mod would be to pull the stick part out of the handle and cut it at the top to retain the factory flat with markings. It's a little more trouble to get the length right (mark how much goes up into the handle and you should be able to get it right the first time).
With the Valk dipstick screwed in does it look better or is it easier to get out, cause I don't pull my dipstick out in front of nobody. The top part would be the only part that would matter to me.
I put Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my bike last oil change.. Talking to Dave Dodge regarding SS brake line last week, he told me not to use this oil.. He said he don't approve of the 5w part of the oil. Said I need to at least put a 10w in it.. Just FYI.. He said he really likes the Valvoline durablend oil.. Or just stick to traditional dino Rotella 10w-40. Thought you guys might want to know this.. I can't seem to find a synthetic rotella 10w-40 anywhere as well. Hey guys, a mistake I wrote down in the previous statement.. The oil Dave Dodge uses is Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40. Not the durablend oil.. I went off of memory, and last night pulled out my papers on everything I write down regarding my bike.. I also have carb sync and 2-3/4 pilot on the same piece of paper with Dave Dodge wrote on top..