Any ideas to remove the bearings from the back side?
Item #7 is a hub spacer which runs from bearing to bearing, doesn't rock much or allow you to get a good lip of the bearing. Also not enough room for any object between the hub spacer and the bearing.
I am using a punch from the back side but with no lip I can't use the punch w/o it slipping, I grinded the end of the punch for a 90 degree edge.
Ideas I can try?
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/T500Bearing.gif)
I know you can use heat and cold for stuff like this but with no lip to push with unless it fell out I am OL.
what about a press, can you press it out?
Have you tryed the other side thats the only way I have done it it should rock enough to get some sort of punch or implement of destruction!!!!
Try to get the spacer to move off-center enough to get a purchase on the bearing with your punch.
Curtis
Could you pull it? I have a flywheel type puller made to sort of "grab" what you are removing. It has 3 "arms" with a 90 degree bend on the end so each one goes on the outside of the flywheel and pulls on the back side of it. That said, I have turned the "arms" before so the "tab" is pointing out on all 3. The I inserted it into the middle of what I was pulling and rigged up something for it to push against. Sorry I don't have a better description. Maybe I can get a pic.
I have moved the center spacer with a object but it doesn't move enough to get a good hit on the lip of the bearing. I may try to drive the center of one thru the other side using the spacer to punch out the other side, buy a ID bearing puller, weld a nut to the bearing and pull it using that. If I could get a good lip to hit on I would be alright....I will keep working at it.
I had to use a little heat when I took mine out along with a long punch !!!!
Due to failed powder coating I had to do both my wheels 2 years in a row.
The owners manual (service manual) tells you which side to remove first. Yes, you do have to move the spacer off to one side and beat the crap out of the bearing to get it out-it's destroyed.
They go back in alot easier, and DON"T FORGET TO PUT THE SPACER BACK IN!
Cheers!
BTW, this wheel pic isn't of a 3rd Gen - it has a drum brake.
Quote from: magnagregcan on November 08, 2008, 03:52:23 PM
BTW, this wheel pic isn't of a 3rd Gen - it has a drum brake.
My bad, I have talked to some an assumed you guys new this was one of my vintage Suzuki's, the T500.
The problem was not being able to get a bite on the bearing to knock it any which way and the spacer was moved as much as it could.
Many good ideas that could have worked....the one I choose was purchasing an internal bearing puller, worked like a Champ!!!
If anyone needs to borrow a bearing puller.....
Thanks for the ideas. We are a happy camper.
Where did you get the tool and how much was it? I need one for my shop.
Quote from: silveradocowboy on November 08, 2008, 05:15:17 PM
Where did you get the tool and how much was it? I need one for my shop.
Harbor F. 43.00 out the door.
Worked great! Comes in it's own case.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95987
Thanks Terry, that's one tool I have needed an a few occasions that would have made the job so much easier. The only place I have seen one, and it was a smaller diameter set, was in the aircraft industry but was sure this type tool was used elsewhere.
Getting it out the first time I turned the wheel upside down so as to Lift the slide hammer and down with a full force. After, I could use the hammer right side up with a few blows to remove.
We all know the quality of HF but this worked well. Mine was not coroded or rusted in either, just no way to hit it from the back side.
74 Suzuki Titan T500 2-Stroke
This won't compare to the guys who are doing a nice restore I'm looking to have a clean rider so you won't see polished hubs or the like. The bike will be a work in progress cleaning various parts here and there. The tank, side covers and seat cover will be the main eye sores. I lucked out and found New fork lowers and headlight ears, replaced the boots, painted the springs, new fork seals, and wheel bearings, etc. New tires are waiting on the side.
I can't boast about much but the new fork lowers and headlight ears give me something I can!
Started out like this;
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN6632.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN6637-1.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN6705.jpg)
Here is where I am now.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN8134.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN8139.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN8135.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN8137.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN8143.jpg)
Worked on the Titan - T500,
The 1156 bulbs for the blinkers would not go in the old fixture after filing the stubs on the side and the lead positive connector the bulb worked ok, replaced the float needle valves and adjusted floats also, still need to sync he carbs which should be easier since I installed the nipple on the other carb throat. I will need to make a sync tool for this.
I installed a different headlight (another stock one) in the Titan, much better but still it's a 25 watt bulb with a 35 watt high beam. The other ones reflective surface was lifting and in bad shape.
Tank, side cover and seat look the same so detracts from the cosmetic appearance. One day I will get around to those.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN7830.jpg)
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN7838.jpg)
Also installed these correct Vintage sized Avons on the T500.
Back tire is a 4.00 X 18 close to a 110 MM tire, compare to the Magna's 150 MM.
Front is a 3.50 X 19 close to a 90 MM tire
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/GT380/Top%20end/DSCN8193.jpg)
WHAT!? No Seafoam?
Nice pics and a beautiful job!
When do you expect to have it done and ready for the road?
Quote from: magnagregcan on December 31, 2008, 06:28:18 AM
WHAT!? No Seafoam?
Nice pics and a beautiful job!
When do you expect to have it done and ready for the road?
These photos were taken BF Seafoam. LOL It's pretty much ready now, I will sync the carbs later and do the paint and seat cover later also once I ride it a bit and see if any issues crop up. If you take off the items left to be completed it looks pretty good, put them back on and not so good...lol
Thanks for the compliment.
So, you just drilled and tapped the carb for the sync tool?
The only carbs I have ever done a sync on myself were inline and had a port like that. My 1984 V45 carbs have vents but I don't see anyway to do a sync on them using vacuum.
Quote from: DG on December 31, 2008, 09:30:36 AM
So, you just drilled and tapped the carb for the sync tool?
The only carbs I have ever done a sync on myself were inline and had a port like that. My 1984 V45 carbs have vents but I don't see anyway to do a sync on them using vacuum.
Yes, I drilled and tapped the blank myself, added the nipple just for carb syncing.
These carbs, not tied to a bank, are prone to be way off. Idle sync has to be set along with off idle. I would have to look at your V45's as I don't understand what you are calling a "Vent". Many "smart dealer service shops" on the older bikes would do this modification automatically for easier servicing in the future.
With nipples on both sides syncing will be a breeze any time I need to check or at a change of the cables. This is more accurate (probably easier) than doing it from the rear of the venturi.
Before photo----- you will see the "blank" on the carb in the left of the photo.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN6852.jpg)
Here is a shot from the inside, I put the towel in to keep shavings at bay.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa214/TLRam1/Motorcycles/T500/DSCN7834.jpg)