Hey everyone im back after a long disappearance, my question is, when all these custom chopper builders make their exhaust, are there any inner baffles? or is it just a chrome steele tube that is wide open. If so if i were to pull out the inner baffles of mine to get that obnoxiously loud exhaust what would need to be done to the carbs to make her perform properly.
gooch;
The lead pipes on the Magna are all about 1" pipe.. To get a true load sound, I believe new pipes will have to be made all the way to the cylinder.. I don't know if anyone has done this.. It still will not sound anything like a Harley or similar bike because you have 4 cylinders running at about 190cc each vs a big twin running something like 700cc each..
Others on the board can discuss the re-jet needs possibly..
well i have my endplates removed and i like the way it rumbles durring acceleration. I just want it to be much louder lol. The flat spot is also driving me crazy when i hit 4k rpm
re-jetting works!
how much rejeting would be needed if i went to custom pipes that are hollowed out like on choppers.
Greg or Terry or someone who is in the know will need to respond..
Maybe 105 jets with a couple of shims.. Wait and they will way in..
Probably need at least 105s if not bigger midrange will be mostly shims 2 maybe 3 with no baffles !!!
i have 105 mains with 2 shims.
Gooch,
You're going in new territory with open pipes other than drag pipes from one of the exhaust mfg. with little to no back-pressure you'll need to run much larger jets assuming you will be changing your filter to a K & N, if not already done.
Running open pipes with K&N I would say you need to start out somewhere in the 110-112-115 jet range with 3 total shims per needle. After you will need to check your plug color and adjust pending color and running of your bike. This is a guess with improvements adjusted as needed.
Read the First Page under the Red info sentence of this post for others jet setting.
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=2119.0
Lets think this way the more air you take in the same has to come out or you have an imbalance rich or lean vice versa more air out well exhaust you need more air in !!!!!
Terry I disagree with you jet size choices with drap pipes, but it is up to each to play with them as they see fit.
If you run a stock air filter you can run 105s if you insist on running a K&N I would go to 108 and push the idle jet to a 42.
However I would probably go with the Dyna Jet kit if I was after a very free flowing exhaust system, it has a much more aggressive needle taper and I believe adapts to this better than the stock needle.
I hear ya Greg, no problem.
I will elaborate, with a K&N filter and V & H pipes you can go to 110 mains probably pretty easy which V&H has back pressure so the flow does have some restriction.
Going with straight open pipes with no restriction (if they will be short even more so) and a K&N filter you will be less restricted than the above case.
If it were me I would start with this set-up.
42 Pilots 2.25-2.5 turns out
3 total shims
110 mains
The Cobra needle as Greg mentions is probably a better fit for this kind of setup. If you are looking to keep cost down, shim it. With some research we might be able to find a different needle jet for our stock carbs.
Gooch, this gives you 2 trains of thought.
I was not going to jump on this one, since I have never rejetted a MAGNA. But... :shock:
I do have a good bit of experience re-jetting on sportbikes after opening exhaust/intake flow up. So, I am on board with Terry, AND Greg.
If you open up the exhaust to the extreme you are talking (I would put a K&N also, as this will contribute to a louder/deeper sound also), either way your jetting is going to be higher than with an aftermarket pipe set up.
I think Terry is spot on with starting with 110, considering the data on here already and is also correct about needing 3 washers.
This where I stop with Terry's and would switch to Greg's advice. I would not try shimming, but would get a stage 3 jet kit. These kits have tapered needles with notches at the top. The taper effectively does what shimming does, but better. By having the notches at the top you can make "1/2 step" adjustments by then using a washer instead of moving a full notch when you need to change.
Just my .2 cents from my experience.
Quote from: thegoochking on November 22, 2008, 02:21:44 PM
If so if i were to pull out the inner baffles of mine to get that obnoxiously loud exhaust what would need to be done to the carbs to make her perform properly.
Gooch - Here are some pictures of a bike for sale on Craigslist with what appears to be straight pipes
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/mcy/930305848.html (http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/mcy/930305848.html)
(http://i34.tinypic.com/j6penk.jpg) (http://i38.tinypic.com/301pqmc.jpg)
one of you all need to just purchase a dyno so we can check out the results!!!
I've already got us a deal on using a Dyno for a half a day. Having your bike dynoed here cost about $50.00. I can get the dyno for half a day for about $350.00 to use as many times as we want. This is a brand new machine, one or two have already shown interest. Damon ( the owner) said we could dyno around 10 to 12 bikes in half a day. We could even do a before and after on a shim job. I'll start a new thread to see how many are interested.
thats a great idea