I noticed last night when trying to polish my forks, something didn't look right. The clear coat is peeling off. But just sporadically in different places. What is the best step in getting this clear coat off so i can go ahead and polish the forks to a nice shine? Green scrub pad? I'm sure this has been talked about somewhere else, just couldn't find the post. I walked outside last night for no apparent reason, and realized I was looking for a cigarrete so I went to my bike and started polishing instead... :lol:
Good alternative....
Not sure of the best way, there may be a paint remover that works, since I think it is a form of paint.
You live in Arkansas, so maybe this will be convienent for you.. I've heard John Deere has a great product for removing Clearcoat..
This is on a Magna?? My 94 didn't have any clear coat I could tell when I got it..
I used a Polishing product, but used it with some Steel Wool "00" I think.. Took all the machine marks out.. looks almost like chrome when polished....
Yes, Hoot, on my 2001 magna. You can see the difference where it has started to come off, it is dull. I wonder if a 3m green scrubbing pad would be too abrasive and scratch the forks instead of just removing this coating? Hmmm... :-?
Quote from: L J BAD MAG on January 08, 2009, 12:01:13 PM
Yes, Hoot, on my 2001 magna. You can see the difference where it has started to come off, it is dull. I wonder if a 3m green scrubbing pad would be too abrasive and scratch the forks instead of just removing this coating? Hmmm... :-?
Honda never polished them on my '94.. So in my case the 3m green pad was not nearly enough.. That's why I went with Steel wool.
shine your forks, the easy way
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Supplies needed:
Mirrex metal Polish, Green scrub pads, brake clean, and quality paper towels.
Step 1: Remove front fender (not nessesary but makes life a little easier)
Step 2: Raise front end enough to get the front wheel off the ground making sure the bike is secure and will not fall over. (once again, not nessesary but makes life a little easier)
Step 3: Cut the green scrub pads into 3-4 inch squares
Step 4: Soak the green pads in brake clean and start scrubbing down the fork lowers.
(This will remove the clear coat and get them down to bare metal. Remember to wipe off the residue that is left behind occasionally so that you get a uniform finish when you are done. You will want to try and follow the "Grain" of the metal which you will see as the clear coat is removed. Keep the green pads soaked in brake clean and change pads every now and again. They are like sand paper and will be ineffective with wear)
Step 5: Repeat step 4 on both forks till they have a uniform finish.
Step 6: When all the clear coat is gone, apply Mirrex to a small section of folded (not wadded) paper towel. Begin applying the polish to the forks. The more you rub, the more the polish will turn black on the forks. The polish will go on wet, then dry to a haze. Once it is dried, simply buff off with a clean paper towel making sure to find clean spots on the paper towel just as if you were waxing your paint.
Step 7: Repeat step 6 untill you have a uniform finish and are happy with the results.
(The more you repeat, the better the shine gets, untill it cant get any better)
After care: You will want to apply the metal polish once a week or so. It will be like waxing your paint, quick and easy. This is just for upkeep of the shine and shouldnt take more than a couple minutes. No more hard work!
I use Mirrex because it is easy on and easy off with quick results. It is like waxing with liquid wax. I have not found many suppliers of Mirrex but if you look up Elliot Wilson Capitol Trucks in Manassas, Virginia (888) 787-4787 you can order it. It costs about 15 dollars a bottle but is well worth it and will last quite awhile. You MUST use quality paper towels with this stuff. No rags, soft cloths or anything else. Other metal polishes will work but you will need to adjust the method of application to the manufacturers directions. I reccomend finding a used fork leg at a dealer or small shop that they are going to throw away to practice on first. Once you get the hang of it, you can apply to your own fork lowers.
Even if your fork lowers are weathered and look like... you know what, they can be polished using this method.
This process works on any polished clear coated part on your bike. Follow the directions and use the right materials. The whole process should take ony a couple hours.
Feel free to respond to this post with any questions. Once I figure out how to post pictures on this site, I will send a few step by step photos on my own bike.
Enjoy!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Found this online. Wonder how good it works...
Use paint remover, works great and easy (no effort). I use this on my vintage bikes to remove the 34 yr old clear coat.
Quote from: TLRam1 on January 08, 2009, 12:43:26 PM
Use paint remover, works great and easy (no effort). I use this on my vintage bikes to remove the 34 yr old clear coat.
How about Starter fluid :shock:...???
Hey.. If it's good for mounting tires, how many other things is is good for???
(Disclaimer - This is a JOKE.. It is only a joke.. Hootmon and MOOT are not responsible for any damage if you should try this.. No animals were hurt in the making of this post)
QuoteHow about Starter fluid ...???
So..., spray the forks down with starter fluid and then light them? Should the gas cap be closed while doing this?
removed post.
you should probably have the engine running also and the bike in gear.
Seriously though, let us know how that article works for you. I've tried several things to polish the forks and the rims and have not found anything that I really like. I've polished my fingetips raw, got a semi-decent results to only have the dull weathered look returned in a short time. :mad:
Quote from: Fitzgerald on January 08, 2009, 01:25:13 PM
you should probably have the engine running also and the bike in gear.
:D :D
Quote from: Fitzgerald on January 08, 2009, 01:25:13 PM
Seriously though, let us know how that article works for you. I've tried several things to polish the forks and the rims and have not found anything that I really like. I've polished my fingetips raw, got a semi-decent results to only have the dull weathered look returned in a short time. :mad:
What methods and products have you used?
I did the fork polishing thingy for a couple of years. When you remove the clear coat you expose the aluminum to air, which causes it to oxidize; in ferrous metals we call this oxidization rust. So yes, unless you replace the clear coat (over polished forks) they will need constant attention. I'd rather ride than polish (guess I'll never own a Hardley then!) so I had mine powder coated a crinkly black. I plan to post pictures this winter. Along with other pictures of the complete bike. I can add that I'm not that fond of shiny surfaces that need constant attention (to look good or even great). I'm lazy possibly? No, I'd rather be riding!
Cheers!
Greg
Take the front fender and wheel off.
Brace the bike so it won't fall over when you are putting pressure on the forks buffing them.
Use a spray type paint stripper like StripperX from Home Depot to remove the clear coat. Just follow the instructions on the can and don't get the stripper on anything you don't want attacked, including your hands (tape stuff off/cover it with plastic and wear nitrile gloves). Recoat stripper as necessary to remove all of the clear coat. You can scrub the goo off with a ScotchBrite pad or fine steel wool. Do not get the stripper on your exposed skin since it will eat it up faster than Rosie O'Donnell's mouth on chocolate cake.
Any areas that have a brushed finish will polish out with polishing compund/rouge. Any rough sand casting marks will need to be removed with sandpaper or a mean Scotchbrite pad that fits in a drill or die grinder. Sand these areas down with various decreasing finer grits of sandpaper (220 to 320 to 400 wet/dry grits). Don't bother with areas inside the fork close to the wheel. Nobody sees this.
Using a buffing pad/wheel mounted in a drill, die grinder or better yet a commercial right angle polisher, start with an aggressive/coarse polishing compound, then medium compound and finally fine rouge(white). Completely clean each compound/from the fork surfaces before you go down to the next finer grit. Use a new wheel/pad for each compound/rouge. You can't clean them out enough to just use one buffing wheel/pad.
I use diesel fuel as a lubricant and a washing agent to keep the compounds in a slurry state or for clean up. It makes a big mess, but it works better cutting the surfaces. Just mop it on with a rag. Strike the surface of your wheel/pad with the edge of a straight blade screwdriver to remove old compound before you load the wheel/pad up again with more new compound as you work the areas of the forks.
After the white rouge, your aluminum should be shining like chrome. Give it one good wipe down with diesel then wash it with soap/water and a clear water rinse. Immediately dry the surfaces.
When you are satisfied with your finish, put a good coat of wax on the surfaces and buff it out. This will seal the surface from water/moisture which causes the oxidation that dulls aluminum shine.
You will occasionally have to polish the surfaces out when they oxidize/dull with some good aluminum wheel polish (Mother's) and then re-wax again.
I got my polishing compounds from a truck chrome shop here in Lancaster, TX. Big blocks about the size of a foot long hotdog bun.
You cannot wash this crap out of your clothes and don't try unless you wish to trash out your washing machine. Wear old ones and pitch them when you are done.
This process is time consuming and messy, but the results are impressive.
Die grinder with 4" wheel, compound sticks and angle polisher with 8" wheel
(http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr80/MOOT-Photos/DSC03096.jpg)
V65 polished forks, front rotors, stator cover, sissy bar and air box covers
(http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr80/MOOT-Photos/DSC02405.jpg)
Thanks D.L. for the write-up. Now I have something to do on my next weekend off... :grin: 8)