Hello All,
A minor accident some time ago has resulted in my developing arthritis in both hands consequently I thought that my biking days might soon be over.
The clutch operation on my 94 Magna is perfectly normal...however having developed this arthritis I was finding it pretty uncomfortable to pull in that clutch lever.
Have carried out a minor modification which has resulted in my being able to operate the clutch lever with, if necessary, just one finger.
The modification is at the lower end of the clutch cable where it joins the operating lever in the transmission housing. This original lever is approx one inch long.
I removed the cable and made up a one inch extension bar which I bolted to the exsisting short lever. This has now made the operating lever two inches long.
About six inches forward of the lever is a chromed bracket which secures the outer cable. It was necessary to bend this bracket out slightly so that the clutch inner cable slides smoothly in and out without chaffing on the outer cables end.
Upon completion the clutch cable of course needed adjustment to give normal freeplay at the handlebar clutch lever.
Having given the bike a road test I can confirm that the clutch operation is now as light as a feather. Such a light operation might not suit everyone of course...but if it keeps me biking then I'm happy.
Thought posting this might be of some help to someone in a similar situation.
My apologies but I cannot post pictures at this time.
Regards to all..Connor.
Yeah my hand has been bothering me lately old injury myself but it is my brake hand now as far as the clutch goes once you are out of first you do not have to use the clutch if you can get the shifting right..
Wish I had figured out something like this for the 1952 Harley I rode in the mid 60's. It had been converted from tank shift with suicide clutch to a foot shift with a hand clutch. Trouble was, all they did was run the clutch cable up to a handle on the left bar. After riding that bike a few weeks, I had a grip in my left hand that could squeeze blood from a turnip!! Dreaded to ride in slow traffic, as my hand would hurt so bad!!
Connor. Sounds like just the thing my wife needs. I'd really love to see some pics.
Hello Guy,
I've just e mailed you three photos and a written explanation.
Hope I did it right...?!?
Regards...Connor.
Connor:
I got the photos. I'll stick them up for now and send you an e-mail about how to do it.
Thanks.
(http://www.guywheatley.com/photos/CLUTCH_MOD001.jpg)
(http://www.guywheatley.com/photos/CLUTCH_MOD002.jpg)
(http://www.guywheatley.com/photos/CLUTCH_MOD003.jpg)
I see a Ridley Motorcycle in your future :)
jk :P
Go on then educate me...What is a Ridley Motorcycle...?
ridley makes a motorcycle that has a CVT transmission, which means there is no shifting.
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/forums/index.php?topic=3279.0
Sounds promising....I'll start on converting the Magna to CVT in the morning.
you could also get a pingel easy electric shifter. i have one, but i need to install the shift soleniod yet.. basicially, you only need the clutch to shift into 1st. then you can push a button for upshifts/downshifts.
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I wonder if by elongating the lever on the transmission if the clutch is still able to fully disengage from the transmission, since you have decreased the amount of clutch travel by increasing the lever length. If not i think i might do this myself, i find the Magna only grabs with in the last 1/4 inch of the clutch lever, by making the transmission lever longer it would increase that grab range.
if the clutch did not fully disengage after his modification, he could also use the adjusting nut at the lever, and also the one near the cable end to make sure the correct amount of slack/free play is there.
"wonder if by elongating the lever on the transmission if the clutch is still able to fully disengage from the transmission, since you have decreased the amount of clutch travel by increasing the lever length. If not i think i might do this myself, i find the Magna only grabs with in the last 1/4 inch of the clutch lever, by making the transmission lever longer it would increase that grab range."
Be careful doing this. I did what I think is the same kind of thing by adjusting my clutch lever so that there was not much between the squeeze and engagement. The problem was it cause my clutch to slip. I found out the cause when I told my metric mechanic about the slipping clutch and he went right to the clutch lever and readjusted it solving the problem.
You guys are on the same train of thought that I had
By extending the lower attachment point, you increase the range of the "Friction Zone". The distance between the clutch just starting to engage to just prior to fully engaged. You would have to adjust the cable so the clutch starts engaging sooner and leave more space at the end to insure that the clutch fully engages... If there is not enough clutch lever travel at the handle bar to fully accommodate the new size of the friction zone, then you would have to reduce the size of the lower attachment point until you have adequate space at the handlebar.
The electric shifter is surely an option..
(on a side note) There are a couple of shops that make a automatic clutch plates for Harleys. It works off of centrifugal force. You would still have to pull the clutch in for shifting, but you do not need the clutch when you come to a stop.. Here is one example:
http://www.tejasthumpcycles.com/Parts/primaryclutch/auto-clutch.JPG (http://www.tejasthumpcycles.com/Parts/primaryclutch/auto-clutch.JPG)
Basically they put some steel balls between two plates, as you speed up the motor to about 1500 RPM the balls are force outward on a shoot and separates the plates causing the clutch to engage. Once you drop below 1500, the balls fall back toward the center and dis-engage the clutch.
I wonder if anyone has tried building a torque converter type trans for motorcycles. I know the market would have to demand one for anyone to actually produce one, but looks like someone would have at least tried, I mean they've tried building everything else. I haven't googled it yet , has anyone even heard of an attempt at one??
I had a CB750A for a while. This was not a belt driven CVT system. However it was a CVT system in that there was no shifting. They did provide a High range (0-whatever) and a low range (0-60) It used Hydrolics somehow.. It was interesting that it used regular motor oil (Shared with the engine), so Honda was not worried about contaminates or the thinner viscosity of trans fluid.