So today, when I got ready to leave the bank parking lot, Maggie would not turn over.
Neutral -- check.
Kill switch -- run.
Extra lights -- off (not that it should matter, but I don't burden the battery with extra stuff while cranking).
Punch the starter switch -- nothing.
I'm parked on a slight hill, so I coast a bit, drop it in gear and pop the clutch --nothing.
Getting desperate, here...
Flipped the kill switch to "Off" and then back to "Run" -- Varooom -- ready to go.
Remember my friend in Estes Park -- who couldn't start his bike after hours on the side of the road with his wife, catching rides into Grand Lake, etc. etc. -- only to discover, at last, that the kill switch was in the "off" position. Got so disgusted during the ordeal that he vowed to sell the bike, which he did, even though it was not the bike's fault.
I started using the kill switch to stop the engine after the advanced rider course suggested it. The idea is to get used to using the switch, so you don't have to hunt for it if you put the bike down -- especially on the left side. Also, remembering my friend's frustrating tale, it teaches me to check it before starting. Maybe I am wearing it out!
I could just see Maggie dieing suddenly on the rest of my ride somewhere, but she got home OK.
Stopped at the corner to buy gas before coming home (I like to leave a full tank for condensation minimization.) and had to flick the switch three times to get it to go.
So, when I got home, I took the screws out of the switch mount, which also mounts the throttle, but not the front brake, and, without taking the throttle cables loose, peered up into the cavity that holds the kill switch. Could see the trip mechanism, but could not determine if the switch is a sealed unit or not. Then I did an air wash with 90 psi air and an air jet, and poof! -- a white object blew out that I determined was a spider web/nest of some sort.
Now I like spiders. They eat bugs, and except for walking through the occasional annoying web, they have never harmed me. (Yes, I know about Black Widows and Brown Recluses -- just been lucky I guess.) And, I am not even sure if this white stuff had anything at all to do with the problem.
The bike cranked right up when I tried it. That may be because it is here at home in the carport, where it feels comfortable, and will act up the next time I ride. I don't know.
Do any of you guys know? The shop manuals were no help. They want you to replace the whole assembly! Haven't priced it, but bet it is over $100!
I would spray the switch with some contact cleaner blow it out again and not worry about it more than likely the spider was the problem.
What are you suggesting that the spider was turning the switch on and off just to mess with ya :D Or maybe it got it's little foot caught under the contact accidently :D :D :D :D :D :D..
If your brave you can take the switch apart and clean it 8)..
Quote from: Charles S Otwell on May 08, 2009, 06:36:06 PM
If your brave you can take the switch apart and clean it 8)..
That is precisely what I seek to avoid. You have to take the throttle cables loose from the pulley. I really don't want to go there -- but I don't want to be stranded, either!
Quote from: Charles S Otwell on May 08, 2009, 06:36:06 PM
If your brave you can take the switch apart and clean it 8)..
I vote for this, I really cannot remember Lawrence but like you I would be leery until I tried. If it is spring loaded similar to the starter switch the contacts may not be working well or just dirty.
Throttle cables are easy.
Before I met you brainiacs, I had a starter switch issue.. I purchased a used unit (it came with the case and everything). Instead of messing with the throttle cables, I just stripped the switches & wiring from what they sent me and swapped it out with my existing housing.. I never had to take the cables off.. I haven't had a problem since..
Quote from: hootmon on May 08, 2009, 07:29:36 PM
Before I met you brainiacs, I had a starter switch issue.. I purchased a used unit (it came with the case and everything). Instead of messing with the throttle cables, I just stripped the switches & wiring from what they sent me and swapped it out with my existing housing.. I never had to take the cables off.. I haven't had a problem since..
So, Hoot, what I want to know is this. Is the kill switch a sealed unit, or are the contacts exposed to the air in the housing?
I have seen instructions on how to take apart the starter switch and clean it, and it appears to be a sealed switch, but it's not... So I would think that you can get the kill switch apart, but I have not done it myself..
Iragan........If I was placing bets I would bet on an open contact kill switch. I have not worked on these in particular but most I have worked on are open....I'm sure you could try the contact cleaner/air blast as I have done many times. Spray it well, work the switch back and fourth spray again and blast with air...I have never replaced one....But I'm sure I will someday....Good Luck..
It is an Open switch not sealed I mean it has a plastic case but is not sealed I spray some Corrosion X in mine everyonce and a while and it is about time for me too barely touched mine today and she shut off coming in the garage at work but started right up..... I think water and such from washing the bike gets in the switch housing and corrodes it up no biggie !!!!
I recently replaced the throttle cables on Maggie...wasn't all that tough to do, and I'm not the world's greatest mechanic.
But, Iragan, I was also intimidated by the thought of dealing with it, but decided: Hey, I'm not diffusing a nuclear warhead here.
If I did screw it up I can (a) re-read the shop manual (b) call another biker buddy who can do this sort of thing in his sleep or (c) ask for insight from the beloved brain trust at magnaownersoftexas.com
...Not that I'm ready to take the bike apart and jet the carbs tomorrow, but it's a start.
Thanks, guys, for the information and encouragement.
Quote from: Damn Yankee on May 09, 2009, 01:16:22 AM
...Not that I'm ready to take the bike apart and jet the carbs tomorrow, but it's a start.
Hey, Your not diffusing a nuclear warhead here. :lol:
Shhh...I'm trying to determine whether to clip the red wire or the blue wire. :lol:
Quote from: Damn Yankee on May 10, 2009, 06:13:15 AM
Shhh...I'm trying to determine whether to clip the red wire or the blue wire. :lol:
Well......if you clip the wrong one.....nice knowing you. :-P
Update -- I bought a can of contact cleaner at the local Wal-Mart and used it. The switch has performed flawlessly so far -- maybe 15 to 20 activations.
I found an old hearing aid in the drawer that I put away because it needed batteries so often, and thought "why not? -- 'tis useless as it is", so I sprayed cleaner in it and blew it out with an air gun. Fixed the problem!
Then yesterday I dug into a hand power saw whose switch was getting more and more finicky, sprayed it and blew it out with an air gun. It now works reliably.
I suppose only time will tell, but I am happy with the results of this chemical spray -- and it doesn't even have methy-ethyl-ketone or tricloroethylene. It does contain some other long chemical names, and has a sweet odor.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Lawrence.....I figured it out a while back...If it don't work I can't break it again....LOL..A clean contact does improve performance most the time....Congratulation on Completing Contact Cleaning101... :D :D