I finished my regulator/rectifier modification this morning. It took me about an hour.
Materials i used:
one 2" metal strap, found in the gate hinge section of the local hardware store.
one 13 mm bolt, 2 1/4 " long with washers, lock washer, and nut.
one 11 mm bolt 1 1/4 " long with washer, lock washer, and nut.
I also purchased a 11 mm bolt 1 3/4 inches long, a rubber spacer along with a washer and acorn nut if I decide to drill through the fender and come through regulator for extra support.
$2.15 for all
Here are the steps that I did.
1. Remove seat
2. Remove battery
3. Remove side covers
4. Remove regulator from position under the battery case by removing 2 nuts.
5. Grind the end of the metal strap to fit inside the fins on the regulator.
6. Drill hole for bolt to go through, one 13 mm the other 11 mm.
7. Remove the exhaust mounting bolt
8. Attach the 11 mm 1 1/4" bolt to the regulator with the wires coming out of the top of the regulator.
9. Place the 13 mm bolt through the exhaust mount.
10. Feed rugulator connectors up through frame towards battery box.
11. Place bracket over back of exhaust mount bolt and tighten down.
12. Loosen the snap that holds the connectors next to the battery box.
13. Bring connectors behind the battery box and connect to the regulator.
14. Make sure all connections are tight and then replace battery.
15. Start bike and check functions, if everything seems fine put seat back on.
Here are some pics.
http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr80/MOOT-Photos/Regulator%20Mod/
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Very nice Jim, great work!! Now you got me a thinkin.... :grin:
Good move, Jim. Very well documented.
I have mine torn down for repair. Think I will do this mod. (You made it look easy!)
Where did you buy the metric bolts & nuts?
At our local hardware store here in van
Would it hurt anything if I took it off and painted it and the bracket black?
Quote from: Jamtndll on June 26, 2009, 01:54:45 PM
Would it hurt anything if I took it off and painted it and the bracket black?
Great question!
First, painting the bracket black can only help. Not much, but a little bit.
As for the heat sink, it is, I believe, anodized aluminum. The coating is pretty much optimized for heat transfer to ambient air. The difference in emissivity between flat black paint and the dark grey of the heat sink is probably insignificant. The paint will provide a thin insulating layer, but probably not enough to make a significant difference.
If you paint it, be sure to use a flat black (non-glossy) paint. There is some made for painting barbecue grills which stands up to high temperature very well, you might try that. Use as thin a layer as you can to get the appearance you want.
Since you have moved the unit into a cooler environment, I believe the benefits of the move far outweigh the possibly ill effect of any paint you could put on it.
If you want it black, then paint it black.
Here, Here!! :D
Looks great, maybe I can find some time this weekend to do the same. Thanks for a great how to presentation. :D
i was thinking about moving it somewhere else myself or putting fins by the sidecovers to blow air in
Just so you folks know, several of us are working together to create a relocation kit for you 3rd gen Magna's.
It not only will relocate your reg/rec to allow more air and keep it alive longer but will also help pay for MOOTMag in the future, we hope.....
Just finished up the painting. I just put one light coat over the reg. Bracket and bolts took off and painted them seperately.
Here are before and after pics.
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Very good job !!!!
Really blends in well Jim, looks like you went ahead and fastened it to the fender.
Nope just put in a fake bolt and nut so I would not have a hole showing
I haven't painted mine yet, but I built a different mount that does not require drilling the fender. Used 1/8" X 3/4" flat aluminum -- also used for the mounting strap to the muffler bolt. Bent the end of the eight inch piece around a 1 inch mandrel before installing on the frame. Clamped the mount together with vice grips while I drilled it on the frame -- with the mount clamped so it was horizontal, to facilitate drilling. Then moved it to its final position and tightened the bolt/nut/lockwasher.
When re-wrapping the wiring harness, I began to wonder about one of the components behind the battery box. I could not find it in the shop manual, but perhaps I just didn't reckognize it in the drawings. Does anyone know its function?? :???: :???:
When I get the bike back together, which should be in the next few days, I intend to repeat the measurements I made last summer of heat sink temperature (while riding) to quantify the benefits of re-location to this point.
For others who may be contemplating this modification, a few hints:
1) Removing the chain cover (two bolts requiring an 8mm wrench) greatly simplifies access to the left side mounting nut for removal of same.
2) It is only necessary to unwrap the wiring harness back to the mysterious box or the relay next to it in order for the wires to reach. It is not difficult -- the harness is simply wrapped in black plastic electrician's tape.
3) In removing the connectors, one can access the connector latches from the top with a flat blade screwdriver to allow unplugging the R/R unit.
4) The wire harness retainers can be unlocked with a screwdriver under the locking flap on the top. They relock by simply squeezing them back together. Unlocking them and taking the wiring harness out simplifies modifying the harness.
I like the black look. I plan to paint at least the mounting hardware black. Of course, Jim has a black fender and side panel. Perhaps I should paint mine blue...
Just kidding!!
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Kudos, Jim & Lawrence. Very nicely done.
I look forward to the field temperature tests.
Your getting some nice custom mods done!
Isn't that little black box the flasher for the blinkers?
Lawrence, if I am not mistaken, the little black box is your flasher relay.
Quote from: L J MAGNA on June 29, 2009, 09:07:16 AM
Lawrence, if I am not mistaken, the little black box is your flasher relay.
Then what is the larger black box adjacent to the one in the picture with the arrow? I thought
that was the flasher relay...
The flasher relay on my bike says Mitsuba FR-3303 on it. Maybe this will help. I unplugged it just the other day with my blinkers on and they stopped. Mine looks to be in the exact place that your arrow is pointing to. I also could hear it "clicking" inside the box.
NO, I am wrong Lawrence. I am referring to the big black box. The little black box, I don't know. Sorry for the miscommunication.
I found it to be in my way also Lawrence. I took the rubber mount off and put it back on so it faced the other way. I then took it under and up and put it back on. It was now on the other side of the brace and my connectors fit much better.
A while ago I made up a rear luggage rack for the Magna. Its made of steel.
Having had a regulator fail, actually the back of it melted, I decided to relocate the new regulator.
I extended the wiring and bolted the regulator to the underside of the rack. To aid heat dissipation further I bolted the old regulator to the new one, so it now looks like a double decker regulator.
When moving on the road the new unit now gets a consistent flow of air over it. After a run the regulator is warm to the touch but certainly not hot. You can place your hand on it and keep it there indefinitely whereas before in its original location it would have taken skin off.
If the bike is just sat idling for any lengthy period of time the result is the same, warm only.
The rack itself and the original regulator make a real good job of dispersing the heat.
Being mounted to the underside of the rack its not visible.
Am in Cyprus, Europe where the temperature at this time of the year is regularly into the 90's and so far so good.
I mounted the regulator with its cooling fins pointing fore and aft thus allowing air to flow between the fins when on the move.
So far so good.
Connor, that is a great solution. If I had a luggage rack, I would do likewise.
How did you "extend the wiring"? Did you buy four new mating connectors, or cut and splice the wires?
BTW, it was 105F in Austin yesterday. 90's sounds really nice :lol: :lol: :lol:
My luck i would do that and it would heat up and catch my tank on fire. lol "The Flaming Manga"
The little black box is your flight recorder box :D :D :D :D sorry I couldn't help myself..
Quote from: Charles S Otwell on June 30, 2009, 11:05:38 AM
The little black box is your flight recorder box :D :D :D :D sorry I couldn't help myself..
Well, maybe I need to download its data and determine precisely how I wound up through the trees and into the rock wall!!
I noticed that when I turned it sideways, there was something inside that slid to the other end of its travel. Could it be a "keep it vertical, buddy" kill switch for the engine? Nothing in the manuals (that I could find) mentions such a function, or this small box. Strange.
that little thing should be the clutch switch diodes. should be 3 wires coming off of it.
Iragan,
Sorry for the delay in replying.
I cut the wires and soldered in the extension wires. I managed to run the extended wires to the rear behind the side chrome trims so they are not visible.
In its present location the new regulator unit is not visible unless you crouch down and look up at the underside of the rear rack.
Regards...Connor.
No need to apologize, Conner.
It appears you actually have a life!
I spend way too much time here, but I really enjoy it... :smile:
Quote from: lragan on July 01, 2009, 01:33:17 PM
No need to apologize, Conner.
It appears you actually have a life!
I spend way too much time here, but I really enjoy it... :smile:
Ok...Take a break and go mount your r/r under your luggage rack and post some pics...LOL.. :D :D :D
Quote from: Greg Cothern on June 27, 2009, 09:46:54 AM
Just so you folks know, several of us are working together to create a relocation kit for you 3rd gen Magna's.
It not only will relocate your reg/rec to allow more air and keep it alive longer but will also help pay for MOOTMag in the future, we hope.....
I ordered 25 of the regulator relocate plates made from stainless steel a week or so ago.
We settled on Stainless due to the fact that it can be formed and will remain stiff. The aluminum failed a stress analysis we did on some 3D cad software I had both types designed on.
The stainless has a slightly less thermal transfer coefficient but its only slightly less. In the air stream it makes no difference. Its way better than a plastic battery box :lol:
I still need to find the metric hardware, primarily a bolt that I can get chromed so it looks good mounting.
I should have the plates in a week or so.
I will be donating at least one of these kits to Moot Mag. so You have to come to win one.
Good move, Len
Maybe I will win it!!
What size bolt and thread pitch do you need?
Where is the sign up sheet for one. I am very interested in getting one.
Yeah, I'd be interested in one of the new mounts as well. Where can we get one?
Lawrence: Chad was right. That little black box in the picture is your clutch diode. Not really sure why your diode is that style though. On my Magna, the OEM clutch diode is in the fuse box. I am in the process of doing the VFR engine mod to my Magna and had to wire in the VFR clutch diode in place of the Magna's. The VFR clutch diode looks exactly like the one in your picture. I had to remove the wires from the Magna's clutch diode in the fuse box and run them to the VFR clutch diode. If you are not the first owner of your bike, maybe the previous owner had to replace the diode and used one from another Honda bike.
Chokse, thanks for the verification. In the shop manual, there is a note implying that the clutch diode was included in the fuse box for Magnas 2000 and later. So apparently on my '96 it was in the harness all along. If it has been replaced, they did a great job of it, since it is not evident from inspection.
Interesting side note -- it appears from the wiring diagram that the function of the diode (actually two diodes with common cathodes) is to provide an OR function. The starter will engage if, and only if,
(<side stand is up>AND<clutch is disengaged>)OR<gear shift is in neutral>
The AND function is achieved by simply wiring the side stand switch contact that is open when the stand is up and the clutch switch in series.
The other half of the two diode connection is used to light the neutral indicator without allowing a sneak path to ground for the starter relay coil current.
Quote from: TLRam1 on May 04, 2010, 06:06:38 PM
What size bolt and thread pitch do you need?
You pull one of the exhaust mounting bolts on the Right side and replace it with a longer bolt.
I think i recall it being a 8mm X length?
I'll find out and post.
QuoteYeah, I'd be interested in one of the new mounts as well. Where can we get one?
I'm going to sell them through MOOT so the proceeds above cost will go to MM and MOOT events.
So as soon as I find and kit up the items Greg or I will post up a notice.
But to answer the question, SOON i hope. Its took a lot longer for the guy to get them drawn up and sent to fab than I wanted
Lawrence:
My bike is a 95 model and the clutch diode was in the fuse box before I replaced it with the VFR clutch diode. I think the previous owner of your bike wired in a different clutch diode. As long as it works, no harm-no foul.
on my bike, it is in that same spot, just hidden a little better, and it's that same shape. It's what I tied into (if i remember right) for my high beam to open my garage door opener. The other wiring harness I bought has one that looks just like that one too.
Quote from: Len Averyt on May 05, 2010, 11:39:33 AM
QuoteYeah, I'd be interested in one of the new mounts as well. Where can we get one?
I'm going to sell them through MOOT so the proceeds above cost will go to MM and MOOT events.
So as soon as I find and kit up the items Greg or I will post up a notice.
But to answer the question, SOON i hope. Its took a lot longer for the guy to get them drawn up and sent to fab than I wanted
I will be bringing 10 or 15 of them to MM8. I haven't seen the final product yet but looks like it will work great.
I'll be mounting one on my bike tonight to create a installation manual and to show off for MM8. PS final cost on these is coming but should be very affordable.
Quote from: Len Averyt on June 04, 2010, 02:02:45 PM
Quote from: Len Averyt on May 05, 2010, 11:39:33 AM
QuoteYeah, I'd be interested in one of the new mounts as well. Where can we get one?
I'm going to sell them through MOOT so the proceeds above cost will go to MM and MOOT events.
So as soon as I find and kit up the items Greg or I will post up a notice.
But to answer the question, SOON i hope. Its took a lot longer for the guy to get them drawn up and sent to fab than I wanted
I will be bringing 10 or 15 of them to MM8. I haven't seen the final product yet but looks like it will work great.
I'll be mounting one on my bike tonight to create a installation manual and to show off for MM8. PS final cost on these is coming but should be very affordable.
(NOT!
My machinist screwed me over. Went to pick them up and they weren't where they were supposed to put them.
They are closed on Saturday so there is no way I will have them.
I left a very very nasty voicemail on there answering machine. Told them to eat them and canceled my payment check.
So I'll be looking for a new shop to make them.
This is very disappointing for me and for moot.
They had 4 months to make the damn things and they wait till the last day to start then screw it all up by not putting them out so I can get them.)
QuoteMy machinist screwed me over. Went to pick them up and they weren't where they were supposed to put them.
They are closed on Saturday so there is no way I will have them.
I left a very very nasty voicemail on there answering machine. Told them to eat them and canceled my payment check.
So I'll be looking for a new shop to make them.
This is very disappointing for me and for moot.
They had 4 months to make the damn things and they wait till the last day to start then screw it all up by not putting them out so I can get them.
I have them in hand!
Long story but 8)
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Looks great Len!!! Awesome work!
Quote from: Greg Cothern on June 05, 2010, 09:56:48 AM
Looks great Len!!! Awesome work!
I had to delay my departure till Monday morning.
I got the first one mounted on my bike. I had to be a "trend setter" :lol:
Now everyone will want one!. You better want one! You hear me! Your going to take one if I have to shove...
Sorry Im just a little worked up! :lol:
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Put me down on the list. I'll buy one. Just let me know where to send the money and how much to send.
Quote from: Len Averyt on May 05, 2010, 11:39:33 AM
QuoteYeah, I'd be interested in one of the new mounts as well. Where can we get one?
I'm going to sell them through MOOT so the proceeds above cost will go to MM and MOOT events.
So as soon as I find and kit up the items Greg or I will post up a notice.
But to answer the question, SOON i hope. Its took a lot longer for the guy to get them drawn up and sent to fab than I wanted
If you have a total please post it so I can bring the money to MM#8 this week. And THANK YOU for doing it!! :lol:
I am certainly in for 1!!!!!
For moot members $36 each for one. $35 if your special!
$30 each for more than one (2+) This doesn't mean 1 guy buys everyones.I know how you guys think! :lol:
We are giving one away as a prize or what ever you call them.
We will sell these on ebay for $40-$45 (general public)
Just remember. ALL profit is going to MOOT so if you want to give more that would be great!
I have 2 with me at MOOTMAG and Greg is bringing 12 more.
The conversion should be simple enough to do here for those that want it right away.
How can I send you money and what will shipping cost? I want one bbbbaaaaaaadddddd!
Quote from: Chokse on June 09, 2010, 09:11:34 AM
How can I send you money and what will shipping cost? I want one bbbbaaaaaaadddddd!
Don't forget to tell him you live in South Korea when he calculates shipping :) How've you been lately? got the bike back together yet?
I'm going to have him ship it to family in the US. We had a son in November and are bringing him to visit his grandparents this summer. With the extra baggage allowance for the baby, I'll be picking up some bike stuff and bringing it back with me.
THe whole bike thing has been a mess, but the end is in sight. I am just waiting on a few parts that the painter screwed up and I should be done. I'm guessing 1 or 2 more weeks. Once I finish, I'll post some pics and info here and on the other Magna sites.
How's the house you were working on Chad? I saw you had to sell the bike. That sucks. I know what it's like to be without your bike. Not fun.
QuoteJust remember. ALL profit is going to MOOT so if you want to give more that would be great!
Did I sell my Magna to the RIGHT guy or what???? Len you continually prove to be a MOOTman's MOOTman!!! Way to go!!
Curtis
Quote from: Chokse on June 09, 2010, 10:00:52 PM
I'm going to have him ship it to family in the US. We had a son in November and are bringing him to visit his grandparents this summer. With the extra baggage allowance for the baby, I'll be picking up some bike stuff and bringing it back with me.
THe whole bike thing has been a mess, but the end is in sight. I am just waiting on a few parts that the painter screwed up and I should be done. I'm guessing 1 or 2 more weeks. Once I finish, I'll post some pics and info here and on the other Magna sites.
How's the house you were working on Chad? I saw you had to sell the bike. That sucks. I know what it's like to be without your bike. Not fun.
Congrats! That's a way to bring more stuff back :)Can't wait to see the finished ChokseMobile in all it's glory :)
The house is coming along good, a little slower than I thought it would, and much more work than I expected. I am installing all new doors by myself soon, never done that one before yet. I finally have them all at the house waiting to be installed, I tore out all the old mouldings, door jams, window trim, baseboard, kitchen cabinets, bathroom toilet,sink and drywall. I replumbed most of the house already. I have two more outside spigots to install and a run to the kitchen yet. I still need to get all the drains in place and redo the vents to the roof in PVC yet too. It's getting there :)
We had two huge trees in the backyard that were dying. They were a mess to clean up after we had them cut down. I thought we would save some money by chipping up the debris and hauling all the mulched up tree stumps out ourselves... Worst mistake I could have made so far. Next time I would pay whatever the pro's charge to remove it all, lol. I had a neighboor come over and cut up most of the trees after they were on the ground and take it all away for free. that was nice since I don't know anyone else who could have taken it quickly. anyways, it's all getting easier. I need to rewire the house yet, but I know how to do that, and re-drywall some walls, paint, trim out the windows/doors/floors, install flooring in the bath and kitchen, kitchen & bath cabinets and a few misc things and then it's done. I already have a waiting list of people who want to rent it when it's completed :)
The regulator kits are available through Moot.
Contact Greg Cothern, he's handling the $$ side of it since its going to Moot
I will need a shipping address that the unit is going to if you want the stainless acorn nuts instead of or used with the nylocks.
The acorn nuts didn't make it in in time for MM8. I'll try to send some to Greg so he can send them with any orders.
The following have the kits
1. Me.
1. David S. (Smoked U)
2. David Carrales. (Dlcarrales)
1. Troy St Germain. (Troystg) [MM8 winner of the kit]
Kits left (20)
P.S. I'll try to have some sort of "manual" here on line.
OH I am going to keep one so add me to the list!
Greg:
I sent you an email about buying one of these. Did you get my email?
Last week I put a fresh battery in for MootMag and now I notice at night my headlight gets very bright then back to what it was with the old battery. The getting brighter then dimmer is that a sign of the regulator going out? I had mentioned I was interested in the modification so I will put my money where my mouth is. Not literally because that is just gross. So let me know how much, so I can send Greg the money.
Robert, you need to make some voltage measurements across the battery. If the voltage goes above 16V, then you have a bad battery or a bad regulator.
If you are getting overvoltage, try a different battery. If it persists, you are in need of a replacement regulator/rectifier.
Regulators do not fail gradually. If yours is failed in the mode that causes overvoltage, it will ruin batteries one after another. If you need to replace it, would be a good time to install the relocation kit (you would not even have to struggle to get the old one out from the bottom of the battery box unless you wanted to -- could leave it for a more convenient time -- like when you have the rear wheel off and can come at it from the back.)
A friend reconditioned the battery so I could put the old battery back in to see if it still does it.
Talking with a co-worker he suggested if we are relocating the regulator we should consider running dual regulators. One in the original location and the relocated one. Just wire them in parallel. It will remove a lot of stress off the regulator. That would give us a little more power for a few more accessories. Not unlimited number of accessories because the stator is not increased just removing stress off the regulator.
Robert if you want to come by and check your bike out bring it over. If you currently add accs it will take stress off your regulator. Adding another regulator, maybe it will dissipate the heat better, not sure here. My second Magna acts like yours does, I thought the same, checked it out and all appears ok.
Terry you are correct it will disperse the dissipation of heat between the two. Most being utilized at the point of higher revving of the engine.
This weekend we have plans for fathers day but next weekend should be good if it is good for you.
It would surprise me if running regulators in parallel will work. There are voltage "sensors" in each one which decide how much current to pass. While they are the same design, they are sort of like women -- no two are exactly alike. In all likelihood, one of the two will do most of the work, and the other will sit back and do little or nothing.
After reviewing the schematic, and after making careful measurements, I do not believe that adding accessories will reduce the thermal load in the regulator/rectifier. If it would, then turning on my 120 watts of running lights should reduce the operating temperature. It does not.
The alternator can be viewed as a source of current. It is not a voltage source. The current it puts out goes through diodes to the battery/electrical system, or through silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs) to ground. The voltage drop through these devices are similar, and this voltage drop times the current is the power dissipated in the unit. So it doesn't make much difference what the accessory load is. Depending on the particular choice of diode and SCR, it may actually go up a bit through the diodes, in which case the dissipation would increase with load. In my unit, at least, there is no measurable change in temperature with load.
Here is what Lawrence said...
Quote from: lragan on June 15, 2010, 06:25:51 AM
It would surprise me if running regulators in parallel will work. Blah Blah voltage "sensors" Blah Blah Blah Blah . While they are Blah Blah Blah Blah sort of like women -- no two are exactly alike. In all likelihood, one of the two will do most of the Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah .
After reviewing the Blah Blah Blah Blah , I do not Blah Blah accessories will reduce the Blah Blah Blah Blah . If it would, then Blah Blah running lights Blah Blah Blah Blah .
The alternator can be viewed as Blah Blah Blah Blah . The current Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah . In my unit, at least, there is no measurable change in temperature with load.
Just joking Lawrence..
Thanx for the insightful in depth analysis and testing which resulted in profound conclusions..
Quote from: lragan on June 15, 2010, 06:25:51 AM
While they are the same design, they are sort of like women -- no two are exactly alike. In all likelihood, one of the two will do most of the work, and the other will sit back and do little or nothing.
I agree the load will not be equal I would guess a realist worst outcome will be 80 / 20. But I would expect better than 60 / 40.
Just a guess.
We design power supplies that are redundant and have to be setup specially to share loading. normal powersupplies don't like too.
As Lawrence suggested one unit ends up doing most of the work so dual regulators is a crapshoot.
The regulators dissipate the unneeded energy to ground creating heat.
When more energy is needed then they conduct the energy to the system still creating heat.
What I would worry about would be the load on the stator windings.
Quote from: Len Averyt on June 15, 2010, 10:10:21 PM
We design power supplies that are redundant and have to be setup specially to share loading. normal powersupplies don't like too.
As Lawrence suggested one unit ends up doing most of the work so dual regulators is a crapshoot.
The regulators dissipate the unneeded energy to ground creating heat.
When more energy is needed then they conduct the energy to the system still creating heat.
What I would worry about would be the load on the stator windings.
I agree. I think the most practical way of addressing the issue is simply to either relocate the regulator for better cooling or else mount a fan to keep air flowing over it. I like your idea for the bracket better, Len, since it addresses the fundamental problem without adding another electrical device which can fail.
Quote from: Magnum Magna on June 15, 2010, 01:35:09 AM
This weekend we have plans for fathers day but next weekend should be good if it is good for you.
Let's keep in touch, haven't thought that far ahead yet.
Quote from: lragan on June 15, 2010, 06:25:51 AM
After reviewing the schematic, and after making careful measurements, I do not believe that adding accessories will reduce the thermal load in the regulator/rectifier. If it would, then turning on my 120 watts of running lights should reduce the operating temperature. It does not.
The alternator can be viewed as a source of current. It is not a voltage source. The current it puts out goes through diodes to the battery/electrical system, or through silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs) to ground. The voltage drop through these devices are similar, and this voltage drop times the current is the power dissipated in the unit. So it doesn't make much difference what the accessory load is. Depending on the particular choice of diode and SCR, it may actually go up a bit through the diodes, in which case the dissipation would increase with load. In my unit, at least, there is no measurable change in temperature with load.
I do remember your test and what your findings show, so I am in a neutral position and do not disagree or agree other than the facts of your findings are correct. So far the history has been anyone running 100 plus watts of lights consistently from a low mileage bike has not had a failure, maybe this pushes it right below the threshold that is undetectable from the outside. If we had a large failure rate of bikes heavily accessorized from a young age than this history/theory would be blown. Your findings have puzzled me because of the history.
Just to clarify, not saying to add accessories in lieu of the plate, the plate or similar mentioned is the best way.
Quote from: Len Averyt on June 13, 2010, 05:09:04 PM
For moot members $36 each for one. $35 if your special!
$30 each for more than one (2+) This doesn't mean 1 guy buys everyones.I know how you guys think!
The regulator kits are available through Moot.
Contact Greg Cothern, he's handling the $$ side of it since its going to Moot
I will need a shipping address that the unit is going to if you want the stainless acorn nuts instead of or used with the nylocks.
The acorn nuts didn't make it in in time for MM8. I'll try to send some to Greg so he can send them with any orders.
Kits left (20)
How much extra do I need to send for the stainless acorn nuts?