Hi All, I have a few questions about timing my valves and syncing my carbs. I would really appreciate your opinions. We had a long rough winter here in Pittsburgh, I am ready to ride.
1. I read an article I believe from DD about adjusting your valves and he mentioned that you can apply gasket tack to the alternator cover and anti-seize to the engine case. This will allow the removal of the cover in the future without destroying the gasket. What is your opinion of this idea and do you apply the products to the gasket or to the cover and case. The article was a little misleading on which part got the coatings.
2. Is Gasgacinch the same as gasket tack?
3. Can I do the above method to the clutch side cover or do they go on dry?
4. I was thinking about buy one of Billy C 100.00 supremeo carb kits do you have any experience with these. If you would like to answer this question off the books danyoder50@zoominternet.net
5. Should I buy the cam tool or do the DD method to adjust the valves?
6. Who likes POR 15 for tank cleaning and lining?
7. What is the best leak down tester?
Thank You
I can field a couple of those having just sold my two 84 vf700c.
1) The alternator is not "bathed" in oil, but some oil does leak through the seal. I had a torn gasket there that leaked oil on slightly, never a puddle but after riding 20 miles or so at speed there would be a light sprinkling on my pants leg. I used gasket sealer no problem.
3) I have also used a VERY thin layer of gasket sealer when I replaced my clutch and have had no leaks. BUT, and someone likely will say it, using gasket sealer there COULD result in some being squeazed out into the inside of the case and break free an perhaps cause some type of damage. Only because I did not have new gaskets I used a very very thin layer and favored the outside half of the case. I used anti-seize on the bolts, but again a very tiny amount.
4) No, the bike has a fuel pump and the petcock is strictly on on and off affair. When you look at it you will see only 2 lines. one in. one out.
1. I read an article I believe from DD about adjusting your valves and he mentioned that you can apply gasket tack to the alternator cover and anti-seize to the engine case. This will allow the removal of the cover in the future without destroying the gasket. What is your opinion of this idea and do you apply the products to the gasket or to the cover and case. The article was a little misleading on which part got the coatings.
I use anti-seize for my vintage machines gaskets as many are hard to find, I put it on the case or the gasket, whatever is easier.
2. Is Gasgacinch the same as gasket tack?
Anti-seize normally holds mine in place.
3. Can I do the above method to the clutch side cover or do they go on dry?
I don't see why you could not do this, if it's a gasket I want to save I use the anti-seize.
4. I have a 84 VF700C and I was wondering about the petcock is it vacuum operated?
I think Dan answered you here.
5. I was thinking about buy one of Billy C 100.00 supremeo carb kits do you have any experience with these. If you would like to answer this question off the books danyoder50@zoominternet.net
No idea here.
6. Should I buy the cam tool or do the DD method to adjust the valves?
No idea here.
7. Who likes POR 15 for tank cleaning?
I like POR 15 for tank sealing and you use their cleaner so it works well if this is what you are referring to.
8. What is the best leak down tester?
I would probably make one to work with my application, so this could depend what you are using the tester on. Between a small hand air-pump, rubber freeze plugs, plugging the crankcase breather and placement of pistons would work in many situations
Thank Terry and Dan,
You guys have taken alot of time to help me out. Dan has been sending me emails about using my built in aux tank for a gas supply while syncing my carbs. I think I will build my own leak down tester. I do not understand the .040 re-stricter hole in the 1/8 nipple between the two gauges. If the 100 psi air pressure can get through the hole to the cylinder to pressurize the closed chamber why would the first gauge read 100 psi and the second one read 90 psi assuming we have a 10% leak. If it leaking wouldn't the gauge be dropping linearly. If I installed a aluminum plug into the nipple that is between the gauges does it matter how long the plug is. Meaning that the hole could be 1/8 long or 1/2" long depending on the length of the drilled out plug.
Thanks Dan
Dan,
Disregard my leak-down test info, I am talking 2-Strokes, all I think of on a four stroke is compression testing.
Terry,
Are you saying thta POR 15 is a liner only and I should use a different method for removing rust. I pulled my tank yesterday and was wondering if it could flash rust on me. Can I run high pressure water through it and dry it out with a heat gun before I treat it with a rust remover? Can anybody answer my question above about the restrictor in the leak down tester?
TIA
Quote from: Cadmandu on February 25, 2011, 11:07:47 AM
5. Should I buy the cam tool or do the DD method to adjust the valves?
Yes. The cams need to be pulled up against the cam holder while the other lobe is under pressure to adjust them properly.
One of the best methods of home DIY rust removal from a tank I have heard.
Box of BB's (or other aggregate of your choice) poor into tank, with petcock & cap removed, duck tape openings securely. Wrap tank with OLD blanket toss into clothes dryer. NO heat if you have a tumble only cycle. The more you stuff old blankets into the dryer the quieter it will be and less chance of tank boucing around.
Remove after 30 minutes clean out with alcohol and dry and then use POR product.
Quote from: Greg Cothern on February 27, 2011, 09:47:16 AM
(or other aggregate of your choice)
I once used string and strung up a bunch of pnuematic brass fittings and small nuts and instead of the dryer, I used children to shake it for a long time.
I know Ive mentioned it on here before but Don Hart Restoration does an awesome job on cleaning and coating tanks.
Quote from: Greg Cothern on February 27, 2011, 09:47:16 AM
One of the best methods of home DIY rust removal from a tank I have heard.
Box of BB's (or other aggregate of your choice) poor into tank, with petcock & cap removed, duck tape openings securely. Wrap tank with OLD blanket toss into clothes dryer. NO heat if you have a tumble only cycle. The more you stuff old blankets into the dryer the quieter it will be and less chance of tank boucing around.
Remove after 30 minutes clean out with alcohol and dry and then use POR product.
Cool idea! Now all I would have to do is convince the wife to let me put something that smells of gasoline in her dryer -- :-) :cool:
Hi Greg,
Do you know of any members that actually did this? Maybe I will go to a laundry mat around 3:00 AM and look like Cosmo Kramer with the bag of cement. Thanks for the idea it sounds like it will work.
Hi Jeff,
DD talks about slipping .003 under the cam and adjusting the valves with (2) .005 shims between the rocker and the valves. Does the .003 under the cam do the same thing as the cam tool?
1. Can i flush out the tank with a water hose?
2. I am having trouble getting the last 1/2 pint of gas out of the tank any suggestions?
3. I read an article about adjusting your idle mixture screws and they talked about using an inductive tach that would have the sensitivity of 50 rpms.
So I guess I would need a digital tach or timing light any suggestions on one that the scooter guys like?
Yes... He said he stuffed as much stuff as he could around the tank. Pillows, blankets, towels etc to keep the only movement inside the tank.... He said it worked very well.
Seen some folks drill a small hole in the tank filler neck, roll tank upside down.. This little hole will actually help later with filling as it will allow you to fill tank fuller.
Dan,
I am only familiar with the POR 15 sealer and cleaner, not sure if this is the same cleaner you are talking about, I use Evaporust as a rust remover and is reusable. If paint is a concern Evaporust will not hurt the paint, still I take no chances and clean quickly if any finds its way onto a painted surface.
The dryer method is a working method normally used when you have a bad rust issue especially. The problem comes if you have a lip where the tank lid or petcock goes, that can make it hard to remove all the media.
Quote from: Cadmandu on February 27, 2011, 02:35:15 PM
Hi Jeff,
DD talks about slipping .003 under the cam and adjusting the valves with (2) .005 shims between the rocker and the valves. Does the .003 under the cam do the same thing as the cam tool?
I always used the tool and the two .005 shims so I can't comment on the .003 shim.