I have owned my 1986 Honda Magna for about a year. I love my bike it is the most fun part of my day. Nothing feels better than leaving the office and jumping on my bike while my coworkers get into their cars and look miserable. I am moving to Az and will be losing my Mechanic( my brother). I need to be able to fix my bike my self since he won't be able to anymore. I am trying to fix my clutch my self. How do you take apart the slave cyclinder. Also I have seen several repair kits and I unsure which one I should by any suggestions.
I'd move to AZ from NY in a heartbeat if i could find work out there.
A clutch isn't too much of a hassle I'd recommend getting the service manual for the bike and just take it step by step and make sure you have all of your parts and fluids + spares together BEFORE you turn any bolts. also put a towel under the bike, it prevents bolts and washers and the like from dropping and rolling off into the abyss
Thanks for the tip. I also plan to clean out my Carbs in a few weeks. What tools should I be looking at and would need a rebuild kit?
Welcome to MOOT and your name would be....
Ingramml
(http://i52.tinypic.com/20hq79c.jpg)
Do you have a V.45 or V.65 Magna? (750 or 1100cc)
On the clutch replacement, make sure you get a new gasket before you start..
Take a look at this video (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7272590578350336971#), it should give you a good idea on the clutch work..
On the carbs, you usually don't need any parts (Unless something is leaking, etc). IF the bike is just running bad, then the carbs usually just need to be opened up and given a good cleaning..
IF it is running just a little bad, then try a couple of double doses of a product called "SeaFoam" in the tank. It can be found at many auto parts stores and WalMart. If things get better keep using it until the bike is back to normal, then every few tanks, put in another shot to keep the carbs clean. IF this works, then you won't need to pull the carbs..
Anytime you know the bike is going to sit for more than a couple of weeks, make sure you put some SeaFoam in the fuel and run the bike for a few minutes to get the SeaFoam into the carbs.. It will help prevent the gas from varnishing and causing you troubles..
Whenever you have NOT performed the work before, always search around YouTube.com and a good general search with Google and you can often find videos or instructions that will generally help you out with a project so you have some idea what you are getting into.
Good luck with the move..
QuoteIF it is running just a little bad, then try a couple of double doses of a product called "SeaFoam" in the tank. It can be found at many auto parts stores and WalMart. If things get better keep using it until the bike is back to normal, then every few tanks, put in another shot to keep the carbs clean. IF this works, then you won't need to pull the carbs..
Anytime you know the bike is going to sit for more than a couple of weeks, make sure you put some SeaFoam in the fuel and run the bike for a few minutes to get the SeaFoam into the carbs.. It will help prevent the gas from varnishing and causing you troubles..
This is wisdom that should NOT be ignored. Seafoam works miracles and will save you lots of frustration and effort. I parked my bike for almost 9 months without starting it (stupid, I know) but was smart enough to have been using Seafoam regularly. With a new battery it fired up but idled rough if at all. Ran 2-3 small tanks of gas, 1-2 gallons, with a strong dose of Seafoam in each and it would then fire first bump, idle perfectly and pull with all the horses it has.
Sorry, I didn't introduce my self. My name is Michael. Thanks for the advice this will be my first real maitence with my bike so I am a little nervous. I am not really mechanically inclined but I love my bike and have no desire to have someone else put in the work on it. I think this forum is great and have found alot of great information on it already. Iwill find some pictures of my Magna and post them soon.
Once you start you wont be able to stop.
Mechanics don't grease it the way you like, they don't measure fluids the way you like, they don't torque things the way you like, they don't check for quality...ever
you see this so much more once you start doing your own work.
The good thing is with a weekend and some beer anything is possible.
My sentiments exactly! There's a lot more satisfaction in DIY projects too.
Cheer's from another NY 96 Magna!
The slave cylinder is pretty straight forward. It's been a while so I may be off on a couple details. Remove the cover on the left side near the footpeg so you can remove the bolts. Before you remove the bolts loosen and lightly tighten the hydraulic line on the slave cylinder. Get a rag and a container to hold the fluid. Squeeze the clutch lever to push the piston out. Lube and replace the o-rings. Re-install parts. Bleed lines and test it.
I have my rebuild kit coming this week. Looking at the manual it says I will need an air compressore to get the back of they slave cylinder. Is this the best way. BTW I have no ressure in my system so I cannot use the hydrolic pressure to dismantle the cylinder.
Air pressure will work fine.
Just want to update everyone. I rebuilt the slave cylinder. My brother and i could not get the air of the lines for the life of me. We ended up removing the bleeder valve and using a rubber glove duct tape and just pouring the brake fluid in the glove. As stupid as it sound sit worked right away and my bike is ready to go. I need to get a new battery then i am ready to go. Do i need a new battery or just an acid refill.
It is so hard to get the air out on the clutch line. Smart to think of a cheap way to do it.
Put it on a charger if it charges up and will hold the charge your good if not just get a new one so you don't get stander somewhere with a dead battery.
Quote from: DG on March 20, 2011, 02:26:40 PM
It is so hard to get the air out on the clutch line. Smart to think of a cheap way to do it.
I use a piece of tygon tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder on the slave cylinder, and onto a pump type oil can. I open the top reservoir and pump fluid up from the bottom until it quits bubbling in the reservoir. Air wants to rise in the system, so I let it -- even help it along a bit. Works for brake lines, too.