Where to find what car oil filters work with the Honda Manga VFR-750. The internet tells me the Honda Magna uses a filter that matches the Mobile 1 M1110, Fram PH7317, and Fram PH6607. The filter makers are starting to make motorcycle labeled oil filters, but car filters are still easier to find the the primary focus. Ever get stuck in a small town with no motorcycle dealer? Remember one of the cars below and you'll be fine.
From: http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oilfilter.htm
The Magna works with
motorcycle filters• Puraltor ML16817
• Fram PH6017A
• Honda 15410-MM9-003 ($7.50 in bulk, $10-12 at the dealer).
but the Puralator and Fram are hard to find.
Several sites on the web pull oil filters apart and compare them (since no one company will do it) and all I've seen rate Fram
basic filters low, and Puralator Pure One high, especally at the price. Besides, all the technology (and SAE testing) seems to go into car filters.
(Note: This guy also recomends several oil alternatives as well; I use Shell Rotella full synthetic from Walmart at $14 for 4 quarts)
Jesse wrote about one comparison that referred to this site: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters
Quote....a guy had literally taken apart the major brand equivalents and compared them to a Honda OEM filter. Purolater uses three diffent filter surfaces as opposed to just paper. It has is a greater filter surface area and a better anti-drainback valve to keep the filtered junk from flowing back out of the filter and into the pan when the engine is turned off.
The Purolator Pure One PL14612 is an exact match for the size, gasket, and threads of the Magna OEM filter. The PL14610 is the same only about 3/4" longer.
Puralator lets me cross reference. http://www.pureoil.com/ (Click Vehicle applications).
Then it lets me look up what applications that filter goes on, and I listed just a small number of more common/newer vehicles, in case you want to look up other brands of filters that will fit the Magna. Believe me, this is a shortened list; I tried to keep 2000 and up cars, or cars that ran for 5+ years (preferably both)
L14610 (3/4" longer filter)
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ACURA MDX - V6 3.5L F.I. (VTEC) 2003 - 2006
ACURA RSX - 4 cyl. 2.0L F.I. (i-VTEC) 2002 - 2006
CHRYSLER Sebring Coupe - 4 cyl. 143 2.4L F.I. (VIN G) 2001 - 2005
DODGE Stratus Coupe - 4 cyl. 143 2.4L F.I. (VIN G) 2001 - 2005
FORD Probe - 4 cyl. 122 2.0L F.I. (VIN A) 1995 - 1997
FORD Probe - 4 cyl. 122 2.0L F.I. (VIN A) 16V 1993 - 1994
HONDA Accord - 4 cyl. 2.4L F.I. (i-VTEC) 2003 - 2006
HONDA Accord - V6 3.0L F.I. (VTEC) 2003 - 2006HONDA Civic - 4 cyl. 1.7L F.I. (DX Model) 2001 - 2005
HONDA Civic - 4 cyl. 1.8L F.I. (i-VTEC) (DX Model) 2006 - 2006
HONDA CR-V - 4 cyl. 2.4L F.I. (i-VTEC) 2002 - 2006
HONDA Element - 4 cyl. 2.4L F.I. (i-VTEC) 2003 - 2006
HONDA Pilot - V6 3.5L F.I. (VTEC) 24V 2005 - 2006
HONDA Ridgeline - V6 3.5L F.I. (VTEC) 24V 2006 - 2006
INFINITI FX45 - V8 4.5L F.I. (VK45DE) (VIN B) 2003 - 2006
KIA Sportage - 4 cyl. 2.0L F.I. (VIN 3) 1996 - 2002
MAZDA 626 - V6 2.5L F.I. (DOHC) 24V 1993 - 2000
MAZDA Millenia - V6 2.5L F.I. (DOHC) 24V 1995 - 2000
MAZDA MX-6 - V6 2.5L F.I. (DOHC) 1993 - 1997
MITSUBISHI Eclipse - V6 3.8L F.I. (VIN T) 24V 2006 - 2006
MITSUBISHI Galant - 4 cyl. 2.4L F.I. (VIN G) 1996 - 2003
MITSUBISHI Lancer - 4 cyl. 2.0L F.I. (VIN E) 2002 - 2006
NISSAN Armada - V8 5.6L F.I. (VK56DE) (VIN A) 2004 - 2006
NISSAN Pathfinder - V6 3.3L F.I. (VG33E) 1996 - 2000
NISSAN Pathfinder - V6 3.5L F.I. (VQ35DE) (VIN D) 2001 - 2003
NISSAN Pathfinder - V6 4.0L F.I. (VQ40DE) (VIN A) 2005 - 2006
SATURN VUE - V6 3.5L F.I. (VIN 4) (SOHC) 2004 - 2006
SATURN VUE Red Line - V6 3.5L F.I. (VIN 4) (SOHC) 2004 - 2006
L14612 (Exact match for Honda)
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FORD Escort - 4 cyl. 110 1.8L F.I. (VIN 8 ) 1992 - 1996
HONDA Insight - 3 cyl. 1.0L 12V & DC Electric Motor 2000 - 2006INFINITI FX35 - V6 3.5L F.I. (VQ35DE) (VIN A) 2003 - 2006
KIA Spectra - 4 cyl. 1.8L F.I. (VIN 1) 2000 - 2004
MAZDA Miata MX-5 - 4 cyl. 1.8L F.I. (VIN 3) 2001 - 2004
MAZDA Protege - 4 cyl. 1.8L F.I. (DOHC) 1992 - 2000
NISSAN Quest - V6 3.5L F.I. (VQ35DE) (VIN B) 2004 - 2006
SUBARU Baja - 4 cyl. 2.5L F.I. Turbo (EJ255) (VIN 6) 2004 - 2006
SUBARU Legacy - 4 cyl. 2.5L F.I. Turbo (EJ255) (VIN 6) 2005 - 2006
SUBARU Outback - 4 cyl. 2.5L F.I. Turbo (EJ255) (VIN 6) 2005 - 2006
Has any one actually used on of these listed AUTO filters as opposed to Honda Magna filters? - or has any one used Rotella full synthetic from Walmart at $14 for 4 quarts on this guys site? -- Im due for an oil change i bought the oil through Honda buy I forgot to buy a filter. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!!
A lot of the guys on //www.v4hondabbs.com swere by the Rotella T oil. I am planing on picking up a few qts of that myself next weekend and doing the oil change. I am probaly going to use the Puralator Pure One filter for it.
Yes, I have been using automotive filters and "Diesel grade" motor oil. I am currently using the non-synthetic Shell Rotella. After reading several articles on the net, including the ones mentioned in this thread , I was convinced. So far I have no issues I can attribute to it, only ones I can attribute my lead hand. :D
I've used the Purolator Pure One filter, too. I'm currently running Royal Purple synthetic, however when I change the oil I may go to their motocycle specific oil, because I think my clunky shift from 1st to 2nd clunks more than it used to.
I use either a Honda or Emgo filter and the next oil change on our bikes will be with Rotella. Like Kerry all I have heard about Rotella has been good.
This might not be helpful but last year when I changed the oil and filter, I used a Fram filter. Can't remeber exactly why that was but think I couldn't find the filter I wanted. I am pretty sure that I just looked up the filter in the a cross reference book at Murray's. That was the only one on hand that said it would fit. Maybe not the best way to go about things but it has worked. Like most things I post, this is not a recommendation, just what happened and what I did. Don't know how well it works but haven't noticed anything untoward.
Will be changing my oil again soon along with the filter. I may go with a K and N which they didn't have but would get for me. Only hear about the K&N air filter. Anyone know about the oil filter?
Used Valvoline MC specific oil which ran about 3-4 bucks a pop. This guy says to change the oil every thousand miles on wet clutch model. http://www.dansmc.com/4stroke_oil.htm
He also has what he calls an online motorcycle mechanic course that I wish you folks with knowledge would look at and see what you think.
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm
There's a lot of equivalent filter information in this thread:
http://www.magnaownersoftexas.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=395
On oil I just switched to the Mobil 1 MX4T motorcycle specific synthetic and must say it quiets the transmission considerably when compared to non synthetic. I am hooked it it from here on out and I get twice the mileage before changing oil again, Kewl! LoL.
Quote from: MagnaManI may go to their motocycle specific oil,
Snicker.......
Quote from: GlovebergQuote from: MagnaManI may go to their motocycle specific oil,
Snicker.......
Well. It's either that or switch oils because it definitely is a much bigger clunk.
Has anyone had any kind of mechanical failure or oil specific problems with a certain brand of oil? From what I've read they'er are a lot of good oil to choose from and everyone has an oil they prefer, I 'd be interested in knowing if there is any I should avoid, besides the ones not recommended for wet clutches?
Quote from: MagnaMan
Well. It's either that or switch oils because it definitely is a much bigger clunk.
I'm sorry Jesse, I just laugh whenever I hear "motorcycle oil" or "motorcycle specific oil". The only difference in oil and "motorcycle oil" is about $3 a quart!
Personally I have used Mobil 1 synthetic since I bought my bike (used to be a red cap but now it's gold)and have never really had another reason to try another oil. I know it's a little more expensive than others but I've got 60K on my Magna and no weird clunking or noises.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance_15W-50.aspx
Sorry if I offended
Nope. I wasn't offended. I was just saying that I noticed a difference was going to try another brand on the next change. I've been meaning to try the Mobil1 oil.
I have a pretty thick skin. :)
I've been using Rotella T since I picked up the bike from Oil Guy (the guy that wrote the Oil and Filter articles referenced earlier in this posting. He's used I think since he got the bike. I also create my own mixture by dumping a bottle of STP oil conditioner in when I change the oil. As far as oil filters go I've been using either Mobil 1 or STP filters. For automobiles. Haven't had any problems yet and my last 4 changes have been using the automotive filters.
Marc
I am not sure of the specific "brews" used in motorcycle specific and regular automotive oils but I have noticed a difference in my experience between the 2.
I have always been a Valvoline person, awhile back they put out a MC specific blend so I tried it and it made a noticeable difference in the shifts less noise and easier.
However on the Valk it was still too clunky and not smooth so I went to synthetic on a recommendation from a long time Valk owner and the shifts are quiet and smooth.
I personally do not believe it is the same stuff totally I think they have added something that our wet clutches like better.
No offense taken always value others knowledge and experience.
Greg, based upon my limited experience with my bike I would have to agree. I ran the Honda GN4 "dino" oil for my first 3,000 miles of ownership. After that I switched to Royal Purple synthetic car oil. I have noticed a definite difference in the amount of clunk/rough on the 1st to 2nd shift. It may be because my bike only had 1100 miles on it when I first changed the oil and now it has 6,000 so it's done a little more breaking in, but I'm definitely going to switch to a moto specific oil on the next change (if not sooner) and see what I hear! :)
I was told by a metric mechanic that once you changed from the honda specific oil to something else it was not a good idea to go back. I have had riders tell me that is just a wives tale. What ya' think?
Bob
One thing I have learned with wet clutch bikes is do not ever use automotive oil that has friction modifiers. It will cause the clutch to slip.
Kerry you are absolutely correct NEVER use friction modifiers.
Quote from: rjbI was told by a metric mechanic that once you changed from the honda specific oil to something else it was not a good idea to go back. I have had riders tell me that is just a wives tale. What ya' think?
Bob
Bob, I haven't heard that about bike motor oil. The closest thing I have heard is that on high mileage cars it is not a good idea to switch the viscosity of oil if you have been running a certain kind for most of its life. That however does not mean you can't switch from a "dino" oil to a synthetic, just so long as you keep it within that viscosity range.
I guess I am the lone wolf I am happy with my royal purple but I also use straight 40w oil I don't have any clunking well nothing more than the usual and if you think your bike clunks then go test drive a hardley heheheheheheh it will give you new meaning to clunk heheheheheheheheh when you shift
Let me come right out and say it: Oil and Fiters is more opinions and very little science. Very few true analysis are done, which is why little guys who cut open filters or do oil analysis on the web are nice to see.
The only hard science I've seen on it is Consumer Report's oil test
http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.shtml
Not a huge sample, but the largest scale, most unbiased mass-test I've seen so far. Bob is the Oil Guy has some good info as well, and I also suggest you take things into your own hands--I've asked Lucas several times about Bob the Oil Guy's page, his demonstration, and his claims. Lucas refuses to even send a "no comment" back. Based on Bob's documented tests and Luca's refusal to respond, I no longer use Lucas's products.
Why do race car drivers use certain oils? Because they get the oil for free, and actually get paid money for it. Besides, explain to me again how a carburated, alcohol burning, super-high RPM dragster that only has to run once for a few minnutes to a few hours is a perfect match for a fuel injected, gasoline burning, relativly low RPM car that had hundreds of stops and starts in -25 to +125 degree temperature? I admit race cars are a tough environment, but
a. if the tiny bits of additives in oil make a huge difference, and
b. regular car divers have different needs and get slightly different oil formulations, then
c. I can logicly conclude those tiny bits of changes in the oil that make a huge difference say that the huge difference means the race track is not a realistic test for what I need from an oil.
QED. (for you math geeks)
I've been using the Shell Rotella in my Magna for years, without problem. You can get it at the Wal-Mart by the Texas Instruments plant (635/75) for about $13.50 if I remember right. Wal-Mart varies price (slightly) and stock by the part of town it's in. Buy things in the run down part of town and certain items are cheaper. They also vary what they carry by store; I've seen lots of synthetics in upscale wal-marts (including wal-mart synthetic brand--go figure!) but I don't see that in poor area wal-marts.
I've been using the Purealator Pure One becuase it gets great reviews in all the spots online that literally cut filters apart. I've been very happy with it and haven't had any problems.
30k miles so far, 0 problems.
Before I switched a former car of mine from organic to synthetic oil, a trusted mechanic friend told me to pour a small bottle of transmission fluid into the oil and run the car for no more than a 50 miles, then change the oil.
The purpose was the transmission fluid's higher detergent make up will "strip" the oil from the interior engine parts - hence the "no more than 50 miles" warning. Then, when the organic is drained and the synthetic added. the engine has much less organic residue with which to potentially coagulate.
Have any of you heard something similar to this?
If so, do any of you do anything to "strip" the organic oil from your bike motor prior to switching to synthetic?
POSTING THIS ON MARC'S NEW OIL POST...