Just called dfw honda to inquire how much for a valve adjustment. $346 for the inspection and if they had to make adjusments (duh) it went up to $495. Holy *&#@. Good thing I'm a mechanic, guess I'll be learning how to adjust valves :-D
I will let someone with more knowledge then me correct me.
A few have had it looked at and no one has had a problem.
As a first responder I say you don't need it unless something does not sound right.
looking through my maintenance schedule, that is something that should be done periodically. Since I have recently bought the bike I don't see a record of it in the previous owners list of maintenance and there is a distinct "tick" coming from one of the cylinders. with 50k miles on the bike I'm sure this is something that should be addressed.
For the most part, some amount of engine noise at idle is normal for this engine. That doesn't diminish from the durability of the design. As Robert pointed out, I think you'll find many here who have never adjusted the valves despite the service interval mentioned in the owner's manual and those that have, even after many more than the recommended mileage, have found nothing to adjust.
Quote from: LIMagna on July 14, 2011, 06:31:48 PM
For the most part, some amount of engine noise at idle is normal for this engine. That doesn't diminish from the durability of the design. As Robert pointed out, I think you'll find many here who have never adjusted the valves despite the service interval mentioned in the owner's manual and those that have, even after many more than the recommended mileage, have found nothing to adjust.
+1
You can check the valves for piece-of-mind but it's rare any have needed adjustment.
Several months ago my engine was making a pretty noticeable tick, tick, tick from the rear cylinders. Took off the valve covers and sure enough the rear valves were way out of spec. If I remember correctly, they were supposed to be .16 (+ or - .02). All valves on the rear cylinders were .40 or higher! The front valves were close to being in spec (only about .03 or .04 off spec), but I decided to adjust them since I was already doing the rear.
My front and rear valves are now perfect. Exactly at the spec they are supposed to be at and the engine sounds amazing now. Nice and smooth, and the power feels smoother too.
If you hear a constant ticking sound (especially if it is noticeable), you might want to check the valves. It only took about 20-30 minutes to get the valve covers off to the point the valves could be checked. Checking them takes a bit of skill (I had a friend who is an expert at it help me out) to determine if what the gap is, and you need a special tool, but it is probably something you could do yourself if you had a lot of patience.
It is a pretty noticable tick coming from the cylinder which is what prompted me to look into this to begin with. after making a few calls I found a reputable shop that will do it for $245 which will also include syncing the carbs which is required after adjusting the valves (so the manual says). I have also noticed a couple of weeks ago that all of a sudden I am getting some small backfiring whenever I down shift of throttle back and start slowing down. I suspect that it is probably related to the valves/carb sync. Although I am sure I'm capable of handling this job I think for the price I will just let the shop do it. Sometimes it's just easier to pay the price, besides, it's 103 here with no relief in sight, I'll pay someone else to sweat for a change :)
That is more reasonable and as stated in Roberts post regarding wheel bearings, sometimes it's not so bad to take it in.
SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!! Seen dozens separated from their hard earned money.. They dont change much on adjustment. If its off it was off when built...
If youir fuel economy is good, power good, etc, then WHY mess with it?!!!!
Quote from: Greg Cothern on July 16, 2011, 05:52:01 PM
SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!!! Seen dozens separated from their hard earned money.. They dont change much on adjustment. If its off it was off when built...
If youir fuel economy is good, power good, etc, then WHY mess with it?!!!!
Simular to what my father use to tell me. If it ain't broken don't fix it.
Yeah, but when the valves are out-of-whack and you are sitting there at a red light sounding like the crocodile from Peter Pan, it can get just a wee bit embarrassing. Sometimes its worth spending a little money to have the engine purr rather than tick.
Quote from: Skydrol on July 15, 2011, 08:25:21 AM
It is a pretty noticable tick coming from the cylinder which is what prompted me to look into this to begin with. after making a few calls I found a reputable shop that will do it for $245 which will also include syncing the carbs which is required after adjusting the valves (so the manual says). I have also noticed a couple of weeks ago that all of a sudden I am getting some small backfiring whenever I down shift of throttle back and start slowing down. I suspect that it is probably related to the valves/carb sync. Although I am sure I'm capable of handling this job I think for the price I will just let the shop do it. Sometimes it's just easier to pay the price, besides, it's 103 here with no relief in sight, I'll pay someone else to sweat for a change :)
Let us know what the mechanic finds..
Some Decel pop is normal on a Magna..
ONLY heard of 2 needing a different shim under bucket change. NO NOTICE in power or fuel economy change after adjustment. OTHER than wallet thinner.
Bring it by and I will ride it and tell ya if it needs any adjustments....... Have ridden well over a 100 different 3rd gen Magna's and have not found one yet that needed an adjustment. EVEN rode the 2 that were adjusted before and after and could not tell a difference...
Just my $0.02.
Thanks for all the insight. I was kinda on the fence on this one but have decided to go with the axiom of "If it aint broke, don't fix it." I'll ride it through the summer and see how it goes. I was reading a post in the FAQ section about 3rd gen. bikes and the cam rod end play on 94's and was wondering if this also applied to the 95's because when I rocked the bike back and forth like the maintenance update suggested the tick seems to lightened up.........coincidence ?? hmmmmm
What oil do you run? When they get hot, such as riding in Texas HEATWAVE summer like we are having they tend to make a bit more noise.. Can bump up slightly heavier oil for "HOT" riding will quiet them down some.
Synthetics help too.
just to comment on the valve adjustment, I had mine checked before I knew of this forum etc. and they had never been checked or adjusted before and they were spec. as Greg said I was just lightening my wallet.
thanks for the post and the info, every little bit helps
I got my bike, it had 12K on it and ticked like a watch at idle. now at 44k same tick older bike no performance change.
I don't know what the '94 cam looks like, but I took the front head cylinder off my '95 thinking that I can adjust the valves and inspect the valve springs. I have to say, 3rd magna cylinder head are solidly built. These heads are designed for high rpm and durability. No valves adjustment required.
Valves can be out of specs without any noise. In fact the valve clearance will reduce as the valve seatings wear down. Finally this leads to a less noisy top-end and heat building due to leaking valves and loss of compression.
If valve clearances increase it could be a sign of cam lobes wearing down. I think valves should be checked.
Cannon I do agree with your statements however with what I mentioned earlier being brought back to memory. IF your fuel economy average has not changed over many tanks. IF your performance hasnt changed also. IF there is no change then why spend the money.
IF these have changed THEN certainly check em! Just do it yourself and DO NOT pay a mechanic $300+ for no reason IF things havent changed...