Today, for the first time, I changed the front sprocket without replacing the chain. As it turns out, the "super deal" I got on an O-ring chain and both sprockets came with a 15 tooth front sprocket. After riding with it for about 1000 miles, I decided I was not going to become accustomed to the higher RPM, especially at highway speeds, so I ordered and received a 16 tooth front sprocket.
Hootmon had posted a couple of years ago about how easy it is to change a front sprocket. It isn't hard, but I found a couple of "tricks" that made it easier for me:
1) Loosen the Allen head bolts that hold on the cover before disengaging the clutch cable from its holder on the cover top. Gives some slack, easing the removal. Then remove the bolts and take off the cover. Note that the bolts are not all the same length, so keep track of where they came from.
2) Remove the adjustment nuts and lock nuts from the rear of the swing arm. (Requires 12 mm and 14 mm wrenches.)
3) File a small notch in one side of one face of each adjustment nut (the large ones that require a 14 mm wrench). Makes it easy to count the turns when replacing the nuts to the same distance on both sides. You may have a fancier way to align the rear wheel, so use it if you do. I count turns, making sure I have the same on both sides.
4) Loosen the axle nut and move the rear wheel forward to provide slack in the chain.
5) Remove the retaining bolt and washer from the driven shaft, then slide the old sprocket out until it clears the splines on the shaft, and disengage it from the chain. I find it much easier to take the chain off once the sprocket is clear of the shaft.
6) Engage the chain around the new front sprocket, then slide the sprocket into place on the splined shaft. Replace the retaining bolt and washer. Torque to 37 ft-lbs. Replace the cover, just engaging the Allen head bolts, then re-position the clutch cable end piece in the capture fixture. Tighten the cover bolts down all the way.
7) Replace the rear axle adjustment nuts, counting turns from flush to get the same number of turns on both sides, until the chain is tight enough. Manual says adjust so you can move the chain about an inch at mid-span, but I usually go for about 1.5 inches. Don't know why, it just "seems" better... Replace the lock nuts, holding the adjustment nuts in place with the 14mm wrench while tightening the smaller lock nuts with the 12mm.
8.) Tighten the axle nut. Torque to 63 ft-lbs.
9) Clean the oil and grime off your hands and go ride!
Thanx Lawrence...
additional notes...
1 I believe there is small cupped piston in the side cover where the rod that actuates the clutch rod the crosses the back of the engine case. It is possible for this piston to fall out.. so make sure this does not fall out when you take the cover off and set it down.
2 Be prepared to clean out the area under the cover, you can get quite a bit of grease build up in this area from slung chain oil...
Quote from: hootmon on June 29, 2013, 05:48:14 PM
2 Be prepared to clean out the area under the cover, you can get quite a bit of grease build up in this area from slung chain oil...
Probably why the cup that fits over the shift shaft never falls out of my cover!! :lol: :lol:
plus there is another pin guide in there to that will fall out. not a hard job just a lot of cleaning of greasing and build up.