OK, I've used the search function, but cannot come up with anything on the 3rd Gen Magna clutch lifter rod seal. My seal is leaking enough to accumulate on the cover. Its not catastrophic yet but doing my research. Has anyone replaced one before? Can I just pull out the old one and tap in the new one? Or, does it require cracking the case if it is installed from the inside? Check out the pics for location. Its behind the drive sprocket cover on the left side of bike.
195,000 miles and still rolling!!
Mike many of those are put on from the outside and you can just find a way to pull that one out and install a new one, pretty common on bikes.
Some kind of hook might work, if metal on the outside, a sheet metal screw might work, think along those lines. If put on from the inside the case or cover will have to come off/apart.
Is there a way you can just re-direct the leak a little so it auto oils the chain for you?? LOL..
Only 195K and you have an oil leak.. I wish Honda made a better bike!!! LOL
Forget what I said I like the auto oiler better.
I had the same leak on my 1st gen. Yours looks different but the heat shrink fix might work better for you than it did for me. Search for Oil leak at clutch slave cylinder
My seal installs from the inside, but I found instructions for grinding off the lip and installing a new seal from the outside. It is scary, but worked great.
Rick Frankenberger
Mike,
Have you pulled out your Lifter rod yet? - You need to make sure the seal surface on the rod is still good as well..
Let us know how it turns out..
Quote from: hootmon on December 06, 2014, 09:02:56 PM
Is there a way you can just re-direct the leak a little so it auto oils the chain for you?? LOL..
Only 195K and you have an oil leak.. I wish Honda made a better bike!!! LOL
Yes, Hootmon, I have been very fortunate with this bike and the service it has given me.
Mike
Quote from: hootmon on December 07, 2014, 08:32:32 AM
Mike,
Have you pulled out your Lifter rod yet? - You need to make sure the seal surface on the rod is still good as well..
Let us know how it turns out..
The surface of the rod is pretty good. I hate to polish it and cause it to leak worse.
Mike
Quote from: SkyRide on December 06, 2014, 11:08:27 PM
I had the same leak on my 1st gen. Yours looks different but the heat shrink fix might work better for you than it did for me. Search for Oil leak at clutch slave cylinder
My seal installs from the inside, but I found instructions for grinding off the lip and installing a new seal from the outside. It is scary, but worked great.
Rick Frankenberger
Rick,
I like the idea of heatshrink. I've been racking my brain for a way to build up the surface of the rod. I guess worst case is pulling the seal, and if the engine case does have a lip, grind it off and install the new seal. Then maybe some good old JB Weld?!
Mike
Mike,
The heat shrink is inexpensive; I would order two so you can put on a second coat in case one is not thick enough.
Pull the push rod our and turn it around. Mine was symmetrical so I got a new surface against the seal.
If it comes to replacing the seal, I have some good pics and notes of how I did it
Rick.
Quote from: MagnaMikeD on December 07, 2014, 03:56:30 PM
Then maybe some good old JB Weld?!
Mike
Mike - instead of JB Weld, I'd go with Loctite Sleeve Retainer - Not quite what it's made for, but should work in this application
Loctite Sleeve Retainer (http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctite/LT37484.html)
Or we use this for our seals in the marine Industry on Gear Cases..
PRO Gasket Sealer (http://parts.promarineusa.com/productdetail/M50/1/1/235)
I can't offer anything more then what everyone else has, but, 195,000 miles!!! Now you are just showing off! :D :D :D
Quote from: hootmon on December 07, 2014, 06:01:26 PM
Quote from: MagnaMikeD on December 07, 2014, 03:56:30 PM
Then maybe some good old JB Weld?!
Mike
,
Mike - instead of JB Weld, I'd go with Loctite Sleeve Retainer - Not quite what it's made for, but should work in this application
Loctite Sleeve Retainer (http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Loctite/LT37484.html)
Or we use this for our seals in the marine Industry on Gear Cases..
PRO Gasket Sealer (http://parts.promarineusa.com/productdetail/M50/1/1/235)
Great idea.
Quote from: SkyRide on December 07, 2014, 04:55:20 PM
Mike,
The heat shrink is inexpensive; I would order two so you can put on a second coat in case one is not thick enough.
Pull the push rod our and turn it around. Mine was symmetrical so I got a new surface against the seal.
If it comes to replacing the seal, I have some good pics and notes of how I did it
Rick.
I'll try turning it around. Thanks Rick.
Quote from: Lurkin on December 09, 2014, 09:16:27 AM
I can't offer anything more then what everyone else has, but, 195,000 miles!!! Now you are just showing off! :D :D :D
Hi Lurking,
Its taken 13 years of commuting to get here. And, man, what a reliable machine the Magna is. Sometimes I think the bike is over-engineered. Very good for us users.
Mike
I ordered the seal from BikeBandit and measured the diameter against the diameter of the installed one. Both measurements were the same which indicated there was no lip and the seal appeared to install from the outside. I then pried it out and sure enough this is the case. I then carefully tapped the new one in place. This is very good news as the other scenario was a nightmare. I also polished the rod with 1000 grit sandpaper. I hope this will help someone else in the future with the 3rd generation Magna's. Check out the picture.
Mike - Thanx for posting this up.. I just replaced the Water Pump o-ring.. I had lots of oil and grime throughout the entire area under the cover.. It kinda looked like my clutch rod seal was leaking too, but it is way to hard to tell with the mess I had going on..
I replaced the o-ring and took the bike to the hand car wash... Removed the clutch cover and cleaned the whole area up..
I'll go back sometime in the future and see if the o-ring was the only culprit, or if I need to do as you did..
My Yellow Magna with 90K miles it, did not have the Clutch rod leaking issue.. So, hopefully, this one is not leaking (yet)...
Anything to look out for or was unexpected?
Did the rod pull right out, or was there issues?
Is it possible to turn the rod around, or is it a one way deal?
With the O-ring replacement - the two 1" water hoses connected to the water pump is the biggest deal.. Hard to get off, and hard to get back on.. Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward (one unexpected thing is you have to remove the exhaust heat shield from the front exhaust to remove one of the W/P bolts)..
Quote from: hootmon on January 16, 2015, 08:16:07 PM
Mike - Thanx for posting this up.. I just replaced the Water Pump o-ring.. I had lots of oil and grime throughout the entire area under the cover.. It kinda looked like my clutch rod seal was leaking too, but it is way to hard to tell with the mess I had going on..
I replaced the o-ring and took the bike to the hand car wash... Removed the clutch cover and cleaned the whole area up..
I'll go back sometime in the future and see if the o-ring was the only culprit, or if I need to do as you did..
My Yellow Magna with 90K miles it, did not have the Clutch rod leaking issue.. So, hopefully, this one is not leaking (yet)...
Anything to look out for or was unexpected?
Did the rod pull right out, or was there issues?
Is it possible to turn the rod around, or is it a one way deal?
With the O-ring replacement - the two 1" water hoses connected to the water pump is the biggest deal.. Hard to get off, and hard to get back on.. Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward (one unexpected thing is you have to remove the exhaust heat shield from the front exhaust to remove one of the W/P bolts)..
Yes the rod pulls straight out. I did not entertain the idea of turning it around because on closer inspection I found the rod had two definite divisions and seemed to have three pieces, possibly threaded together. I was concerned if I turned it around the division on the other side might ride in the seal area. Hope this make sense. So I just cleaned it up with 1000 sandpaper.
Mike