Greetings all,
I'm Dennis, I posted an intro in the appropriate section but wanted to get over here ASAP.
I have a 98 750 that was left to me by my uncle, the bike has 27k on the clock and aesthetically is in almost mint shape. Always garage kept, etc. My uncle passed almost two years ago and it has been sitting since....with the same gas in the tank. His son in law kept trying to start it which in turn sucked more bad gas through the carbs. Yay. My uncles wife got tired of seeing it sit and gave it to me. I have been doing a lot of reading on these bikes and have a pretty good idea of what I want to do, but wanted to check with the authority first so to speak.
The good:
Clean bike, already has a K&N filter, already has a Vance&Hines exhaust system on it.
Bad:
Doesn't run, last time it ran the son in law said the clutch was sticking.
I drained the gas from the tank and put in enough new gas to see if I could get anything from it. She started and idled for about 5-10 seconds at a time before dying and only with the choke out.
I know I need to rebuild the carbs, and I don't think the bike was ever rejetted.
I'm going to order a rebuild kit for the carbs, and a re jet kit from Dave dodge. I'm gonna go with the 108s.
Questions:
Is there a preferred rebuild kit for the carbs?
The pre air filter needs to be replaced, is that an OEM Honda part?
What are y'all running for spark plugs?
Are there any other parts I need to order in advance?
As far as the clutch sticking, I'm thinking its from lack of use, so my plan is to clean it up and replace the fluids in it.
Thank you all in advance for any guidance and help. Not my first rodeo entirley, but definitely my first Magna. I'm excited about getting her up and going again.
Boy, you got your bike the most expensive way.. Having to have a relative pass on to get it.
BUT, you have a great bike there, which will serve you well for many years, if you treat her right.. (they don't like to sit very much)
The good news is you know the bike ran (at least for a few seconds) so the electrical side seems to be good.
I've redone my carbs several times, and never bought a new kit (but it's always a good idea)
You big issue will be the idle jets (don't know if they come in the DD kit or not). IF not, I believe the stocks are 40's, I'd just to a 42 without question... It really should just take a good cleaning of the carbs and you should be on your way.
I would check the tank well and make sure the there is no rust in it.
Check the screen attached to the petcock (inside the tank) and make sure it is passing gas thru it.
In any case.. Frequently use SeaFoam in the gas to keep things clean.. It helps!!!
Not sure what you mean by "Pre Filter" there is a breather filter for the little box under the left side chrome filter..
If you "search" my name and Spark Plug, You will probably find a posting about me installing Iridium spark plugs with the part number..
Once you put those in, you will probably never have to change them again or 100K miles anyways..
The clutch, I'd start with the cable.. Most likely culprit.. Clamp onto the clutch lever on the left side with a vice grip or pliers and move it forward and take the cable out of the lever.. Now try to move the clutch handle.. IF there is any resistance, then it's likely the cable.. IF so, you could lube it, but likely it would need to be changed.. IF it's not the cable, then the lever mechanism should be lubricated (there is a small piston (that can be removed on the back side of the left case that the lever pushes on to push the rod that goes thru the engine case and actually pushes the clutch pack.. Take that piston out and make sure it is free from rust and well lubricated.. Make sure this does not fall out when installing the side cover, or your clutch lever will do nothing.. Not a common thing, but has been seen a couple of times..
Otherwise, swap out the fluids and give it a little time to see if it frees up..
Don't be surprised if you have to replace the clutch sooner than later.. I bought a 94 with 7700 miles on it, and had to replace the clutch not long after I bought it.. But you probably will want to go with an upgraded clutch anyways and it's not a big dollar item..
If you have a little mechanical inclination, you can do the carb pull and clean.. It's a little intimidating the 1st time, but can be done with the instructions that you will find on the MOOT main page.
I think I cover most of your queries..
Oh, one more thing...
(http://i52.tinypic.com/20hq79c.jpg)
hello,
I agreed that you don't need a rebuild carb kit. You just have to be very carefull not to damage the bowl o-ring gaskets and keep the needle valve with the same carb that it was removed from. Most what you need to do are from under the bowls, so remove what you only what you need.
I suggest you rebuild the carbs first and get the bike running good before installing the jet kit. It is tempting to do both when you have the carbs out but when thing goes south you don't know to blame the rebuild or the re-jetting. I help a friend re-jet many years ago and I think you can re-jet with the carbs on the bike.
Carb stuff
You can get viton needles, viton float bowl gaskets and even new carb boots from this place in Canada. The viton is supposed to handle the ethanol in fuels better that the old gaskets.
http://www.siriusconinc.com/
If you want get a complete carb kit there are various ones for sell on the V4 market.
http://www.v4market.com/Magna_c_7.html
These kits are assuming that you are completely separating the carbs. I'm about to do that but only because my fuel cross over tubes started leaking.
Vance and Hines
Those are the best aftermarket pipes in my opinion. Although I'm back to stock quiet pipes. You'll want to make sure that your bike is running larger main jets for those pipes (Check the MOOT website for the numbers.) and you may want to add another washer/shim under the needle. However that may already be done for you if they were installed properly so I wouldn't necessarily buy them until I had pulled the carbs and checked.
The place in Canada ships via FedEx two day shipping so you can pull them one weekend. Order the parts and have them the next weekend.
OEM Parts
Pre-air filter is a honda OEM part. You can generally get the best pricing from ronayers.com or hondaparts-direct.com. I've also just cut some foam material from packing to size and used it.
A Honda accessory that I really like are the engine guards. They will save your leg and the tank if you ever drop the bike. The Item # 08P51-MZ5-100 PART# HO-4194239. The were $142 at Ron Ayers even though it's not listed.
Plugs
You can look up the iridium equivalents on the NGK website and O'Reilly's auto can order them for you. But here's what I found the last time I checked:
Magna NGK plug numbers:
5666 or CR8EH-9 standard stock plug
3797 or CR8EHIX-9 for the iridium plug.
Other items to consider
I'd also flush the brake fluid. Pretty easy if you have some type of vacuum bleeder like a Mighty Mini Vac. And it may be time to flush / change the coolant. But you can do all that after you get the bike running.
And if your tires are over 5 years old you may want to consider replacing them regardless of how much tread they have on them. They tend to get hard and slick with age. That's also something you can do after you get it running.
Let us know if you find rust in the tank. At the very least you might want to pull the pet cock valve and clean it and the sock filter that goes on it. If you have rust in the tank I know of an option that will clean it up that doesn't involve acids that will damage the paint or the brass in the pet cock valve.
Wrench session
Since you're in the Dallas area why don't you host a wrench session and see if you can't get some other Mootsters to come over and help you out? That's part of what makes this group so great.
Can't remember all your issues and it is late, I will respond to just a couple.
1. Never used carb rebuild kits but new o-ring bowl gaskets would not be bad to replace.
2. If you have a K&N with V&H pipes I would go with 105 Mains (108's seemed a bit rich).
3. If you leave pilots at 40, adjust pilot screws out 2.75 - 3 turns, if you go with 42's you will have to see what other people adjusted the screws to and talk to Hootmon.
4. 1 extra shim (total 2 shims) under each needle jet
A good clean on the carbs (especially all of the pilot circuit), tank, petcock, fuel lines, fuel shut-off valve, all passages in the carbs, I think you will be good to go.
Thanks for all the responses guys!!
I got the seat and tank off today, didn't have much time to tinker just wanted to confirm that there was indeed a K&N air filter in it before I started ordering parts...there was.
So Im guessing Honda doesn't want you to clean the filter very often judging by how much of a pain it is to get out...Never had to remove a tank to replace or clean an air filter....or I missed a giant easy step.
I ordered a new set of bowl gaskets and new needles that are supposed to be ethanol resistant, a new set of carb boots, and a Jet Kit from Dave Dodge. I figure its easier for the difference of 50 bucks to just put new jets in and start from scratch. I called my aunt and she didn't know who put the exhaust on, but did mention that she didn't remember the carbs ever being opened up, so theres a good chance it was never re jetted.
The only other part I know I am going to have to order is that little pre filter thing on the side of the bike, it has literally disintegrated to nothing. Are you all running a pre filter there? The book says its an oiled type filter, just curious.
I plan on replacing ALL the fluids in her, coolant, brake, clutch, trans, oil.
The plug wires are original, but look to be in okay shape, there is a little wear on one of them...I searched up the net for a new set but didn't find anything conclusive. Is there a good set of aftermarket wires that y'all are running?
Im hoping that once the carb parts come in ill be able to sit down for a full day and get her knocked out, I hate coming out every day and not being able to ride her.
Thank you all again for the help!!!
-Dennis
Also, I did not see any rust in the tank and there was no debris in the old fuel when it came out.
Haha oops, forgot this was a wet clutch. Guess I won't be changing the clutch or trans fluid!
Is synthetic oil okay in these bikes? I normally run Mobil 1 or royal purple in my trucks
I've been reading a lot about lubricating the clutch and throttle cables, I have seen rusted up cables before, but if they were sticking would it be obvious, or more of a feel it thing?
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 12, 2016, 02:21:26 AM
Haha oops, forgot this was a wet clutch. Guess I won't be changing the clutch or trans fluid!
Is synthetic oil okay in these bikes? I normally run Mobil 1 or royal purple in my trucks
I've been reading a lot about lubricating the clutch and throttle cables, I have seen rusted up cables before, but if they were sticking would it be obvious, or more of a feel it thing?
Synthetic is fine, but it needs to be rated for motorcycles - look for a Jaso rating on the back..
I use Rotella T6 from Walmart with a purolator Pure (PL14612) filter (It's a little longer and I spray paint it silver)
As I stated in my post above, Clamp onto the clutch lever at the bottom and pull it forward and slip the cable out from the lever.. You can then see how much resistance you are getting from the cable itself..
Roger that. Got an email from that Canadian parts co and the carb boots are out of stock indefinitely, so I'll have to make sure and not damage the ones on there. They are not leaking to my knowledge, I was just going to replace them while I was in there. The jet kit shipped out this morning and I believe the bowl gaskets are shipping out tomorrow so hopefully I'll make some progress soon. I printed off the carb removal write up and have been reading through that.
The pre-filter I made my own out of green filter foam (better quality and should last), every one I have seen are disintegrated, part of it ends up in the top part of the carbs.
Never used any aftermarket plug wires.
Quote from: TLRam1 on July 13, 2016, 01:03:22 AM
The pre-filter I made my own out of green filter foam (better quality and should last), every one I have seen are disintegrated, part of it ends up in the top part of the carbs.
Never used any aftermarket plug wires.
Thanks! I'll definitely make one.
I'm trying to find OE wires but I'm not having any luck.
Is there a supplier for them? I have two that definitely need to be replaced so I'd like to do the set while I'm at it.
I can look to see if I have any of the filter material left if interested. What I bought was a piece of the green flat filter, sliced down the middle with a serrated knife to get the right thickness then cut to size.
Found it at Cycle gear, filter material for dirt bikes.
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 13, 2016, 03:02:53 PM
I'm trying to find OE wires but I'm not having any luck.
Is there a supplier for them? I have two that definitely need to be replaced so I'd like to do the set while I'm at it.
I have been wondering that myself. Over on one of the Ninja 250 forums I found out that the plug wires on those bikes can be rebuilt using 7mm ignition wire that you can get from an auto parts store. I'll have to see if I can find the write up. At the very least it was interesting to see how the plug wires came apart. I've been meaning to see if the Magna wires were similarly built.
Quote from: MagnaMan on July 14, 2016, 10:16:17 AM
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 13, 2016, 03:02:53 PM
I'm trying to find OE wires but I'm not having any luck.
Is there a supplier for them? I have two that definitely need to be replaced so I'd like to do the set while I'm at it.
I have been wondering that myself. Over on one of the Ninja 250 forums I found out that the plug wires on those bikes can be rebuilt using 7mm ignition wire that you can get from an auto parts store. I'll have to see if I can find the write up. At the very least it was interesting to see how the plug wires came apart. I've been meaning to see if the Magna wires were similarly built.
My problem is at least one of the boots on the rear cylinder probably needs to be replaced. It's hardened pretty good and is cracking. I can't believe you can't find a set of stock wires for these things. Seems like a common type item.
Quote from: TLRam1 on July 14, 2016, 02:14:36 AM
I can look to see if I have any of the filter material left if interested. What I bought was a piece of the green flat filter, sliced down the middle with a serrated knife to get the right thickness then cut to size.
Found it at Cycle gear, filter material for dirt bikes.
I appreciate the offer! I actually have some of it already, had an extra green high density foam riding lawn mower filter. :)
Dennis,
Call Dave Dodge about the wires. That's a good question for him.
Quote from: MagnaMan on July 14, 2016, 09:57:47 PM
Dennis,
Call Dave Dodge about the wires. That's a good question for him.
Will do! Thank you!
I think I've now read every thread about the R/R failures, while I have the bike apart I'm going to relocate mine I think.
Question, has anyone put a switch on the headlight so that it doesn't run all the time? I would think it would be a simple task but i haven't read it being done.
Thanks all, hope all is well.
I value my headlight for visibility. I also have extra lights for same purpose. The R/R is quite capable of running the headlight, its all the extra stuff we hang on the system (like my running lights!) that strains it.
I am still trying to find (cheap) LED running lights, so I can leave them on all the time, too. As now configured, I leave 'em off most of the time.
Quote from: lragan on July 20, 2016, 10:01:16 AM
I value my headlight for visibility. I also have extra lights for same purpose. The R/R is quite capable of running the headlight, its all the extra stuff we hang on the system (like my running lights!) that strains it.
I am still trying to find (cheap) LED running lights, so I can leave them on all the time, too. As now configured, I leave 'em off most of the time.
Ha nice. I just figured with the hot summers turning the headlight off during the day would be an easy way to prolong life of the RR.
i messaged Greg cothern about his relocation kits for the RR.
I am one who has had some R/R issues. I bought a Ricks Electric R/R after having melting connector issues, and hardwired the new regulator in. I also added a little voltage monitor between the speeddo and tach, in that little chromed plastic cover. Monitor was from Aerostich, just took a little dremel cutting to install. For me, peace of mind only exists if I can *see* what the charging system is doing. I travel long distance too much to not know.
As for LED lights-a good, reliable setup I am using on a DR650 is from ADV Moto. The 30 degree beams I find to be a great balance between long distance vision and beam width. I think for 2 M60 model lights, plus their switches, was under $300. They are holding up well after a few months, 3,000+ miles, and a few drops on the single track trails...
Hope this is helpful-
Hop Along
Quote from: hop along on July 20, 2016, 12:16:25 PM
I am one who has had some R/R issues. I bought a Ricks Electric R/R after having melting connector issues, and hardwired the new regulator in. I also added a little voltage monitor between the speeddo and tach, in that little chromed plastic cover. Monitor was from Aerostich, just took a little dremel cutting to install. For me, peace of mind only exists if I can *see* what the charging system is doing. I travel long distance too much to not know.
As for LED lights-a good, reliable setup I am using on a DR650 is from ADV Moto. The 30 degree beams I find to be a great balance between long distance vision and beam width. I think for 2 M60 model lights, plus their switches, was under $300. They are holding up well after a few months, 3,000+ miles, and a few drops on the single track trails...
Hope this is helpful-
Hop Along
Thanks for the great info! I am trying to be pre-emptive about as much as I can while I have the thing in pieces where it's easier to work on.
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 20, 2016, 09:13:38 AM
I think I've now read every thread about the R/R failures, while I have the bike apart I'm going to relocate mine I think.
Question, has anyone put a switch on the headlight so that it doesn't run all the time? I would think it would be a simple task but i haven't read it being done.
Thanks all, hope all is well.
Most, if not all, states require a motorcycle to have a headlight on at all times while on the road..
Actually, if I remember correctly from the MSF course, the headlight on at all times is a federal requirement. Much like having kill switch and a standardized location for it and the some of the other switches.
Quote from: MagnaMan on July 20, 2016, 09:03:27 PM
Actually, if I remember correctly from the MSF course, the headlight on at all times is a federal requirement. Much like having kill switch and a standardized location for it and the some of the other switches.
I forgot about that. Still used to riding over seas, no requirement for constant on over there.
Got the kit from Dave in the mail as well as a new set of bowl gaskets. I'm finisning up a big job through Sunday but hopefully come Monday or Tuesday ill get on it.
Quote from: hop along on July 20, 2016, 12:16:25 PM
As for LED lights-a good, reliable setup I am using on a DR650 is from ADV Moto.
CORRECTION-The name of the company is ADV Monster; There are cheaper (for being seen, as opposed to seeing at night) models available than the M60's I have. Great customer service too.
Hop Along
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 14, 2016, 11:57:02 AM
Quote from: MagnaMan on July 14, 2016, 10:16:17 AM
Quote from: Drdubbya on July 13, 2016, 03:02:53 PM
I'm trying to find OE wires but I'm not having any luck.
Is there a supplier for them? I have two that definitely need to be replaced so I'd like to do the set while I'm at it.
I have been wondering that myself. Over on one of the Ninja 250 forums I found out that the plug wires on those bikes can be rebuilt using 7mm ignition wire that you can get from an auto parts store. I'll have to see if I can find the write up. At the very least it was interesting to see how the plug wires came apart. I've been meaning to see if the Magna wires were similarly built.
My problem is at least one of the boots on the rear cylinder probably needs to be replaced. It's hardened pretty good and is cracking. I can't believe you can't find a set of stock wires for these things. Seems like a common type item.
OK. Here's what I've found. You can get the boots and wires separately as OEM parts from Honda.
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cbcc1f870023420a42415/wire-harness
Ironically on my Ninja 250 I can only get the boots. I guess they just assume that you use ignition wire that fits.
O'Reilly Auto Parts special ordered a bulk roll of Borg Warner ignition wire for me and they'll just cut off the number of feet that I need. I am going to clean the boots on my Ninja and replace the wires. If it works out well then I will probably try it on one of my Magnas since their set up is also two-part boot and wire system.
Did you hear anything from Dave Dodge?
Wow you are THE man!!
I talked to Dave and he had a wire suggestion IF the boots were still good. Which not all of mine are.
Okay, I got the carb bank removed, wasn't as bad as I was expecting.
Question. I did NOT loosen the lower clamps that mount to the intake, BUT when I went to slowely start persuading them loose three of the four boots came loose from the intake. Not the carb. There is no obvious cracking on the boots, so could this be just a weird thing where maybe the clamps were slightly loose?
Or is this a sign I need to replace the boots?
Thanks!
Gonna start on the carbs.
Another question.
It looks like the bike was shimmed at some point, it had the factory shim plus one. The factory shim seemed to be on the bottom side of the needle, and the second shim was on the top. The jet kit I ordered specs plus two shims, I put all three shims on the bottom side of the needle. (Between the needle mount and the plastic). Is this okay?
Also very upset at myself because although I thought I ordered the D tool, I did not. So I got the shims and jets in today, as well as new plugs. It'll be late next week before I get the tool though so I'm on hold. My own stupid fault.
When I removed my carbs some of the boots come out with the carbs wherether the clamp were loosen or not. Your intake boots are typical and they are still good. I would not replace them. I don't think the clamp was intended to make the vacuum seal. I believed the clamps are additional mechanical strength for the boots. If you look at the clamps closely, they can only be screwed down so far and bottom out. At first, I bottomed out all my clamps and still think they were loose, so I left them as is bottom out and have no vacuum leak issue.
Quote from: ttooee on August 01, 2016, 07:49:25 AM
When I removed my carbs some of the boots come out with the carbs wherether the clamp were loosen or not. Your intake boots are typical and they are still good. I would not replace them. I don't think the clamp was intended to make the vacuum seal. I believed the clamps are additional mechanical strength for the boots. If you look at the clamps closely, they can only be screwed down so far and bottom out. At first, I bottomed out all my clamps and still think they were loose, so I left them as is bottom out and have no vacuum leak issue.
Thank you! That's good news.
Does anyone have an opinion on the position of the shims?
I put the second two under the keeper at the top of the needle so all three shims are below the keeper. If that makes sense.
I read that some put them on top of the keeper, does it matter? I tried to follow the schematic that came with the jet kit.
I did not re-read the thread and not sure what kind of Jet Kit you are putting in.....it does make a difference where the shims go, they must go under the keeper on the needle to raise the needle up in the hole for more fuel to pass sooner.
This should be the same whether on the 3rd Gen or earlier Magna, traditionally when the group has worked on carbs we use two total shims, I have no personal experience with three shims or know of anyone on here that has tried it, that I can remember.
Quote from: TLRam1 on August 01, 2016, 09:46:07 PM
I did not re-read the thread and not sure what kind of Jet Kit you are putting in.....it does make a difference where the shims go, they must go under the keeper on the needle to raise the needle up in the hole for more fuel to pass sooner.
This should be the same whether on the 3rd Gen or earlier Magna, traditionally when the group has worked on carbs we use two total shims, I have no personal experience with three shims or know of anyone on here that has tried it, that I can remember.
I used the Dave dodge kit. He sent me two shims per and I read that those were to be added to the factory one making three total. I put all three under the keeper.
Just went back and re read the instructions and it does say to add the supplied shims to the factory. My kit was 108's on the main jets, don't remember the pilot size.
Well after doing some more reading I now know that my bike has aftermarket adjustable needles. I didn't know that was a thing. I don't remember what position the keeper was in so I'll be calling Dave in the morning and finding out exactly what I need to do, then I'll take it all apart again to get it right. Looks like forgetting to order that D tool was a blessing in disguise
I think there were only two manufacturers who used adjustable needles as part of their jet kits for the Magna, DynoJet & Factory Pro. With the DynoJet kit, you also had to drill holes in the slides so that should give you a hint as to what, exactly was done to your bike. I've got the Factory Pro kit in my Magna and it has worked out very well, especially after upping the pilot jets to 42's.
Quote from: LIMagna on August 03, 2016, 07:27:37 AM
I think there were only two manufacturers who used adjustable needles as part of their jet kits for the Magna, DynoJet & Factory Pro. With the DynoJet kit, you also had to drill holes in the slides so that should give you a hint as to what, exactly was done to your bike. I've got the Factory Pro kit in my Magna and it has worked out very well, especially after upping the pilot jets to 42's.
Sorry to be the idiot but are you referring to the slides on the outside of the carbs?
The vacuum slides that hold the needles.
Oh and no need to apologize, we're all friends here :)
Quote from: LIMagna on August 04, 2016, 06:50:56 PM
The vacuum slides that hold the needles.
Oh and no need to apologize, we're all friends here :)
Haha okay thanks! I'm pretty used to being the village idiot so no issue there!
Okay Well I'm gonna pull the diaphragms back off tomorrow after I call Dave and figure out where the needles should be set. Would it be obvious if they were drilled? I remember the needles went through a brass looking sleeve.
The "brass looking sleeve" are your slides, they slide up and down when you open and close the throttle.
Quote from: TLRam1 on August 05, 2016, 01:04:40 AM
The "brass looking sleeve" are your slides, they slide up and down when you open and close the throttle.
Would it be obvious if they have been drilled out?
I'm not sure if the DynoJet kit called for new holes to be drilled in the slide or simply that the existing hole(s) were to be enlarged. It's been many years since I've had the carbs off of my bike so I can't give you any more details than that. The main jet size may give you another hint as to which kit you have as I believe the DynoJet supplied jets were labeled differently than standard Keihin jets. I know for sure that the Factory Pro supplied jets installed in my carbs were labeled 105 and that the kit also came with 108's.
Well...after speaking with Dave, he thinks they are dyna pro needles. Which means the jet kit I ordered will not work. So I have two options, order different jets, or new factory needles. Dave said even is the holes have been enlarged or drilled out the stock needles will work. His opinion is I'll be better off with factory needles. Jets would be cheaper but Dave said the Dyna pro needles can cut fuel economy in half.
So.
Thoughts?
I have never worked with any of the above, not many here have so I can be of no help. Charlie seems to be the most knowledgeable but like he says, it has been so long it's hard to remember.
I'm thinking the best thing is just going to be order new factory needles. Either way I have to order something else, it's a little more money but seems to be the best plan.
Not sure if this will work, but I tried to attach a photo of a parts diagram. Which part has the holes drilled out in it? I figure I might as well just replace it if I can.
Thanks everyone!!!
Another guy who might have some knowledge about your type of kit would be "roboto65", look him up and send him a Private Message.
Quote from: Drdubbya on August 06, 2016, 10:39:32 AM
Not sure if this will work, but I tried to attach a photo of a parts diagram. Which part has the holes drilled out in it? I figure I might as well just replace it if I can.
Thanks everyone!!!
Center part of Part # 19 in the diagram should be it.
Quote from: LIMagna on August 08, 2016, 11:23:49 AM
Quote from: Drdubbya on August 06, 2016, 10:39:32 AM
Not sure if this will work, but I tried to attach a photo of a parts diagram. Which part has the holes drilled out in it? I figure I might as well just replace it if I can.
Thanks everyone!!!
Center part of Part # 19 in the diagram should be it.
Thank you!!
Well the diaphragms are 100 a piece, so I'm just going to order new needles and hope that works. Dave said that stock needles would work if I kept the current springs in. We shall see. I'm beginning to wonder how well she is going to run.
Dave Dodge is not a fan of the DynaJet kit... However I've talked to some people who swear by it. Greg Cothern had a project Magna with the DynaJet kit and Supertrapp mufflers which allow for adjustable back pressure. He felt they DynaJet kit got more power out of the engine.
David (drinkngas) on this forum also had a DynaJet kit. He had a lot of power but he did get crappy mileage, around 30 MPG hence his name.
If the needles are real expensive you might just want to try working with the DynaJet kit.
Quote from: MagnaMan on August 08, 2016, 06:41:53 PM
Dave Dodge is not a fan of the DynaJet kit... However I've talked to some people who swear by it. Greg Cothern had a project Magna with the DynaJet kit and Supertrapp mufflers which allow for adjustable back pressure. He felt they DynaJet kit got more power out of the engine.
David (drinkngas) on this forum also had a DynaJet kit. He had a lot of power but he did get crappy mileage, around 30 MPG hence his name.
If the needles are real expensive you might just want to try working with the DynaJet kit.
Thanks for the info! The needles are pretty affordable, I ordered those earlier. I'm wondering how much having those slides drilled out is going to effect the performance.
Did not know that the Honda parts direct warehouse is in Palestine. Hopefully that means my needles will be here sooner. :)
Got the new needles in today, may try and get them in the carbs tonight but it will be probably the weekend before I get back to working on the bike itself. Just started back at school (teacher not student) so time is very limited.
I checked to dates on the tires tonight, they are both dunlops, the back is 9 years old and the front is 7. I know both need to be replaced. I have zero experience with either of the top two pics that everyone seems to graft towards, the dunlops and metzlers. I am thinking I'll just stay with the stock size, I have read lots of people describing the dunlops as 'stickier' and that seems like something you would want. Again, for me it's a roll of the dice either way as I have no experience on either. But I will be ordering some sort of tires later this week.
Priced a set of metzlers from bike bandit and also motorcycle superstore. Both sites were right at 350 for the set. Does anyone have a suggestion for another place? I guess the prices have gone up cause that seems higher than what a lot of people seem to have paid.
Thank you
Try cli-max riding gear Terry runs it the prices there are always reasonable.
Will do, thank you. Does 350 for a set sound right?
Quote from: Jerry G Turner on August 23, 2016, 08:04:44 AM
Try cli-max riding gear Terry runs it the prices there are always reasonable.
Even with free shipping Cli-Max is still 10 buck more than one of the others. Oh well, cost of tires is what it is.
What size are you looking at? That seems to high to me. Stock tires front 120/80/17 rear 150/80/15 look on eBay front 120/80/17 Dunlop k555 112 dollars free shipping 150/80/15 Dunlop k555 152 dollars free shipping.
You can save money by going with the cheaper tires and change more often.
Metzelers are going to be the most expensive tire, usually a lot more than Dunlop K555s. However they will last longer in terms of mileage. In my experience the rear Metzelers lasted twice as long as the Dunlops and the front Metzelers lasted about 3 times as long.
People have different opinions on which tires grip better. I don't like the stock sized Metzeler on the rear so I run a slightly larger size. I found the Dunlops to be stickier within the first couple of years but they felt like they got harder and slicker afterwards. Metzelers seem to age better in my experience. But if you're going to burning through a lot of miles and need new tires every couple of years then the Dunlops will probably be OK.
I also have Shinko tires on my other Magna. They seem to be OK but they don't carry a stock size for the front tire.
Quote from: MagnaMan on August 24, 2016, 05:16:50 PM
You can save money by going with the cheaper tires and change more often. Or you
Metzelers are going to be the most expensive tire, usually a lot more than Dunlop K555s. However they will last longer in terms of mileage. In my experience the rear Metzelers lasted twice as long as the Dunlops and the front Metzelers lasted about 3 times as long.
People have different opinions on which tires grip better. I don't like the stock sized Metzeler on the rear so I run a slightly larger size. I found the Dunlops to be stickier within the first couple of years but they felt like they got harder and slicker afterwards. Metzelers seem to age better in my experience. But if you're going to burning through a lot of miles and need new tires every couple of years then the Dunlops will probably be OK.
I also have Shinko tires on my other Magna. They seem to be OK but they don't carry a stock size for the front tire.
Thank you for the info! To be honest I have no idea how much Im going to end up riding when shes back together. I am hoping a lot, but the way my work schedule is, its hard to tell. I can normally only ride to work one day a week when we get a jeans day, other than that I wear a coat and tie to work every day and that kind of clothing has never suited me for riding very well. I think the bulk of it will be going back and forth from Dallas to Beorne where my uncle lives.
I think Im going to just go with the dunlops this first time, and regardless of how they feel Ill do the metz's next time.
Bike News:
Carbs are finally back together with new factory needles and 2 shims per. I saw the two tiny little holes drilled diagonally on the slides, Dave said that wouldnt be a problem so long as I kept the springs that came with the dyna jet kit. Im hoping that turns out to be the case.
Im hoping to get home at a decent enough hour tomorrow (Friday) that I can get the carbs back on the bike.
Very much crossing my fingers that she comes back to life, at this point I think the word 'committed' fits appropriately.
Just a heads up on the tires most motorcycle places charge about 35 to 40 dollars to mount a balance a tire and that's if you bring the wheel to them they charge more if they have to take the wheels off. Two Wheel World in Arlington will mount and balance for free if you buy the tire from them and bring the wheel to them.
Im actually lucky, there's a shop down the road from me that will put tires on wheels if I bring them to them and balance them for 15 a piece
Good news bad news.
Good news.....
SHES RUNS!!! And runs GREAT!!!! Got everything back together tonight and put a gallon of good fuel in her, she started right up and never looked back! I let her idle for a few minutes and then got on it and rode it around the block and down to the corner store, then rode it about ten miles down the road and back. Bike did absolutely great!
I'm gonna order new tires in the morning. Also need to order a new fuel screen for the tank.
Bad news. Fuel screen was torn so I just took it out, I knew I wouldn't run it much and the tank was clean.
Bigger problem...there's a nice little fuel drip coming from the bottom of the carb bank. Couldn't really pin point where tonight, I replaced the bowl gaskets so I doubt it's that but any things possible. Either way looks like it all has to come off again....dang it.
BUT. I have seen the light at the end of the tunnel. She runs, no ifs ands or buts. The clutch wasn't sticking at all, but there's a lot of play in the lever when it's not engaged so I'll have to adjust that.
There is also a gremlin in the blinkers. Every time you turn the key on the left blinker comes on, and then seems to intermittently come on. Everything else worked as it should though.
Thank you all so much for all the help thus far, certainly couldn't have come this far otherwise.
The leak could be a float valve not shutting off the gas, your fuel shut-off valve not shutting the gas off, you already mentioned gasket and such. Float allowing the fuel bowl to over-fill, so many items that could be the cause with the little info given.
Blinkers, guessing here, connections, switch gear on the handlebar, blinker relay, clean the bulb contacts in the socket, check the grounds. Time consuming but I think you will figure it out. Start with everything clean and making good contact.
Quote from: TLRam1 on August 30, 2016, 12:53:01 AM
The leak could be a float valve not shutting off the gas, your fuel shut-off valve not shutting the gas off, you already mentioned gasket and such. Float allowing the fuel bowl to over-fill, so many items that could be the cause with the little info given.
Blinkers, guessing here, connections, switch gear on the handlebar, blinker relay, clean the bulb contacts in the socket, check the grounds. Time consuming but I think you will figure it out. Start with everything clean and making good contact.
Thanks terry.
If it was a float not shutting off fuel wouldn't the bike stall? I replaced the needles and float bowl gaskets, never broke the lines open that connect the carbs, just blew them out. Im going to look at it in the daylight when I get home from work since itll be too wet to mow and see if I can determine anything.
Now granted this has been on vehicles, but every time ive had a float get stuck it causes the engine to stall. This thing idled and ran like a champ.
Not talking about a stuck float, one where your float needle is not shutting off the gas to that bowl, more rare, a float that has a hole in it and buoyancy is lacking or as float out of adjustment and does not shut off the fuel.
Quote from: TLRam1 on August 30, 2016, 10:57:01 PM
Not talking about a stuck float, one where your float needle is not shutting off the gas to that bowl, more rare, a float that has a hole in it and buoyancy is lacking or as float out of adjustment and does not shut off the fuel.
Im familiar with the float having a hole in it, not the ladder.
Ended up wasting the entire evening yesterday dealing with cell phone issues, finally got home at 1030 and figured id start her up. My steady drip of a fuel leak has turned into a VERY slight drip from the back carb on the left side of the bike. Im wondering if what I saw yesterday was a hose that has expanded a little now that is has moisture back in it. Ill be keeping a steady eye on it.
I ordered a new fuel screen for the tank and a set of Dunlop tires last night. Took her for a short ride twenty minutes up the road and back last night and she did great. Really seems to be running well.
Glad to hear you're getting closer and that it's running. Good luck tracking down the fuel leak. I find the little mirrors on a stick are handy for looking up at the carbs from underneath and in the valley of the block.
Okay at this point I'm thinking the leak was either a gasket or hose that just needed to swell up. The first night it was a steady drip, last night it was barely any drip and only from one carb, tonight I couldn't see any fuel leaking at all. I will continue to monitor this. Tires and fuel screen shipped out today.
Good news. Enjoy the ride.
Quote from: Jerry G Turner on September 01, 2016, 07:31:07 AM
Good news. Enjoy the ride.
I certainly will sir, the tires and fuel screen should all be here some time next week, im guessing later in the week. Ill try and get the tires mounted next Saturday. This has been a long project, but its nice to get the old mans mike going again.
Okay, got new rubber in the mail. The shop down the street from me in red oak doesn't do bikes anymore. I've got the wheels pulled, and suggestions for tire mounting south of Dallas?
Hmm, guessing the internet might be your friend, I don't travel much down that way.
Man it's funny, I can't find a single bike shop this way. Everything is either garland, ft worth, or Dallas. There was a place in Ennis that shut down, no other leads. My folks still live in mesquite so I don't mind going to garland, just didn't think it would be so difficult to find a shop to do this.
I thought there was a shop off I35 north of Red Oak on the east side around Pleasant Run Rd, maybe it closed.
Hey everyone,
Does anyone have a shop in or around Dallas that they recommend? I don't have experience with anyone and the reviews I'm reading are all over the place.
I wouldn't worry too much about reviews putting tires on, you are taking the wheels off the bike and carrying to them, correct?
Just make sure they mount the tread in the correct rotational direction, sidewall dot is somewhat aligned with the valve stem and they balance the wheel.
New tires are on, she rides great! Loving it. All that's left to do is flush the antifreeze, clean it, and I'm looking for a wind screen.
Awesome! Glad to hear it. Now you need to make it to a MOOT event. Rumor is there may be a mini MootMag in the fall out in the hill country.
Quote from: MagnaMan on September 11, 2016, 10:58:10 AM
Awesome! Glad to hear it. Now you need to make it to a MOOT event. Rumor is there may be a mini MootMag in the fall out in the hill country.
I'm definitely looking forward to attending one as work permits.
Ive put right at 400 miles on her since I got the tires on, the bike is really running well. Currently seem to be averaging around 35 MPG, and thats with me on it pretty good most of the time.
Still need to change the coolant, hopefully get to that one night this week, cause itll be a late one every day at work. Yay.
I put a memphis shades demon wind shield on it and am loving it.
That is good news, thank for the update.
Quote from: TLRam1 on September 19, 2016, 08:46:48 PM
That is good news, thank for the update.
Wouldnt have made it this far without you all!
Im having troubles with the turn signals and the rear tail lights.
The turn signals are not flashing, but the switch feels gummy so im going to take it apart and see if its an easy fix. The rear tail lights are not working at all, and I have no rear brake light. Im doubting that all of the rear bulbs are burnt out, so thats next on the to do list. The only thing working on the rear of the bike currently is the running light in the center.
The rear blinkers do not act as running lights so if the rear tail light is working check the blub to make sure both elements or good for the brake light.
Quote from: Jerry G Turner on September 21, 2016, 09:13:19 PM
The rear blinkers do not act as running lights so if the rear tail light is working check the blub to make sure both elements or good for the brake light.
Ah!
Thank you! Will update as I work on it over the weekend.