Has this been done by anyone?
No sir, I have used gas but no kerosene, I use that for the chain when I clean it.
What would just pouring kerosene through the case actually do. I am talking about drain plug open filter off and just pouring it straight through.
Thanks
You can add SeaFoam to the oil prior to changing it.. Read the can..
I use diesel fuel. You can pull the plug wires off the plugs, and turn the engine with the starter a few turns to circulate the cleaning agent.
Less volatile fuels are preferred. Kerosene better than gasoline, but diesel fuel better than kerosene.
Do not do this in your garage. Be sure there is a breeze past the bike to carry off volatile fumes. In case you don't have one mounted nearby, keep a fire extinguisher handy...
Thanks Lawrence,
What is a good type and size for a gas fire in the garage and what type for the kitchen and house?
Can you get LED lights for the headlight on a 85 VF700c Sounds like brake and headlight would be easy on the charging system.
Off Topic good for the LED crowd.
Hey Dan-
I've never worked on your generation of 'Hawk, so mine is a little different.
For the electrical distribution, I used this (the 6-circ w/Cover & Neg):
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469454933&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea
There are tons of diagrams on the web that describe how to install it. Use a standard 12v automotive relay that you can at any auto parts store. Cool thing is that nothing works unless the ignition is on. I wired everything through it and have had zero issues with charging.
I mounted the LED driving lights on the fork stanchions where the side yellow reflectors were. I bought these from eBay and they have worked perfectly:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-2-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Offroad-Driving-Fog-Lamp-Motorcycle-4WD-UTE-/172147323928?hash=item2814c7b418:g:1VgAAOSwGYVW9jYO&vxp=mtr
For the LED brake lights, I just some better quality replacement bulbs from AutoZone and replaced the stock ones. Much brighter, and have a smaller load.
Hope this helps!
Quote from: Cadmandu on July 25, 2016, 10:53:50 AM
For the electrical distribution, I used this (the 6-circ w/Cover & Neg):
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469454933&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-2-10W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Offroad-Driving-Fog-Lamp-Motorcycle-4WD-UTE-/172147323928?hash=item2814c7b418:g:1VgAAOSwGYVW9jYO&vxp=mtr
I do like the fuse panel, but I wish they would make it a bit more compact.. It is made for a boat, which has more room to play with than a motorcycle.
I bought the same lights (in chrome).. I haven't mounted them yet, but I bought them based on a friends recommendation as he has them on his Valk..
Here is what i don't get. The guy that sent me the email added these LED's along with his original headlight. I want to go with all LED's to overcome the charging issues with my 85 VF700C and my 82 CB650 SC Nighthawk. The CB has even biger problems with charging. It does not start charging the battery until to hit 3000 rpm's. Does are technical electrical guru Lawerence have a 55 watt head light so we can solve the burnt 3 wire connector. I want to add the usb for the smart phone as well.
IF you swap out all of the blinkers you will run into an problem with the indicator at the dash.
Lawrence and I already had a long discussion about this when I did this..
The 2 wires that go to the indicator bulb in the dash are both hot leads (one from the left and one from the right)
When the hot lead is energized, the power travels thru the bulb and down the other hot lead and finds ground through the bulbs on the opposite side.
The fix for this (Which I have not done yet) is to take both leads heading for the bulb and put diodes on each of them, then tie the two leads (on the other side of the diodes, together and send the one lead to the bulb. Then tie the other side of the bulb to ground.
Getting back to the original question, it was a common practice to use kerosene to do what you are talking about with diesel engines back in the day. This was before quality engine oils, filters and highway sulpher fuels. My question is why and what will this accomplish.
There are plenty of safer crankcase additives that are designed for this and are safer to use. My concern would be saving pennies on the kerosene over the cost of an otherwise good running bike and secondly, it is not necessarily a good thing to try to make a 30 year old engine as clean as it was when it rolled off the showroom floor. The built up carbon is not always a bad thing to have.
I used to rebuild the original VW bugs. Bought a decent enough running one. Cleaned it with a crankcase cleaner and ended up splitting the case and doing a full rebuild. An old timer informed me that the carbon that built up over the years was maintaining tolerances and making everything whistle clean made the engines loose.
Made sense to a young 30 year old at the time.