I'm driving a 1995 Magna V45 with 17K on the clock. Just had the carbs cleaned, new tank, new gas lines, petcock rebuilt. It starts easily and runs strong. I've had the bike since June 2016. It sat for about 10 years before I got it.
I've just started having an issue with the bike "coughing" while riding. I initially thought it was fuel-related because it acts like the tank is running dry. However, it happens when the tank is full and when I switch to reserve.
Driving home last night after dark I noticed that all the lights dim/flicker whenever the bike coughs. The RPM drops about 500 and then it catches and drives on. Sometimes it coughs a few times. it appears to be getting worse. So, I'm concluding an electrical problem. Twice I've turned the key in the ignition and got no lights.
Tonight I'm going to check the battery and the connections in the cutoff switch along with shooting some contact cleaner in the ignition switch. I see a lot of discussion related to the Regulator/Rectifier but my battery appears strong and seems to charge as it should.
Has anyone had a similar issue? Any thoughts on what it might be other than the ignition or cutoff switch?
Welcome aboard.
Of course all things will wear out eventually but for the most part the main electrical items that wear out on a Magna are the regulator/rectifier, the handle bar kill switch, and the high beam / low beam switch.
I'm also wondering if maybe the ignition switch could be a problem. But before I started wholesale replacing parts I would check for loose or corroded connections and also make sure my ground connections were clean since it was sitting for so long.
Electrical problems aren't really my strong point, unfortunately. Hopefully others with more electrical knowledge will chime in.
By far the most common fault in automotive/motorcycle electrical systems is corrosion of the battery terminals-connectors. If you haven't removed the terminals and thoroughly cleaned (to shiny on both battery and connector), I recommend trying this before doing anything else.
If the battery has been sitting for ten years, it may be at the point of failure -- even if it has not undergone numerous charge/discharge cycles. Solids collect in the bottom, where jostling can cause temporary "shorts" across the plates. Not usually dangerous, but can cause a fire, giving you a "hot seat" -- literally.
I sprayed quite a bit of electrical contact cleaner in the ignition switch and ran the key on and off numerous times. I also opened the cutoff switch to do the same thing. Not much luck there as those switches appear to be sealed against water infiltration.
Ran the bike up the road - no such luck. Same coughing as last night, lights flickering whenever it coughed.
I still suspect the cutoff or start switch. I turned on the key and got lights. However, when I hit the start switch all lights went out.
Will check out the battery situation tomorrow. It's fairly new - not ten years old.
Thanx for you input!
The system is designed to turn off the headlight when you engage the starter. The indicator lights should remain on, though. Still sounds like a battery or terminal to me.
Just talked with my mechanic. He confirmed that the headlight would turn off but the indicator lights would stay on if the start switch malfunctioned and it would not affect the running of the motor. He also confirmed that the motor would stop but all the lights would stay lit if the cutoff switch malfunctioned. His bet is the ignition switch.
Now, for the puzzle. I've removed the ignition switch. There are two "break-off bolts" holding it together. Yes, the bolt heads have been broken off. What is the purpose of that? Can I remove it with a set of channel locks or vise grips?
OK. Never mind the ignition switch. I've cleaned it inside and out. I doubt that's the issue. It performs solidly no matter how I twist it, turn it, etc... No shorts seem apparent.
I'm betting battery cables, connections, etc... In a car, you can pull the battery once the car is started and it will continue to run. A bike? I have no idea.
The saga continues....
I think you are correct in you initial post, it is the R/R. Disconnect the R/R and run it on battery and see if you still have this issue. With a full charge battery you should be able to run 20-45 minutes with out problem.
It is difficult to tell how the R/R is going to fail. It could fail as a short, open or some thing in between. Once I had an R/R momentarily made the charge system acted like a motor while I was taken a right hand turn. It felt like I was busted a rod or ran over a 4x4 on the road which I know I didn't. After the turn, it seem to ran fine but I drove home right away. Luckily, home was less than two miles away. Next day the battery was dead and found out the R/R connector was fried.
Just to finish up the post to help anyone with a similar issue. I did clean and tighten the battery terminal connections - battery is fairly new. Perhaps that was it or maybe my ignition-switch 'spray-down'. Either one, I'm back on the road without the electrical issues. So, first check your battery connections (simple things first), then your ignition switch, and finally your rectifier. Hopefully you'll find the issue corrected with those three checks. If not, break out the multi tester as you're' gonna be checking your whole electrical system... Thanks for your suggestions and input!
Thanks for the update and glad you have the issue resolved.