Does anyone have a picture/pictures, or can you point me to a site with an install writeup on adjusting carbs? It's sounding like I'll need to do the Shim/Jet install on my bike, or at least adjust the carbs.
I know absolutely nothing about a bike carb, or even carbs in general, I've always had fuel injected vehicles.
Thanks! I'll be googling...
Come to one of Greg's wrench sessions in Seagoville and you'll have plenty of experienced watchful eyes to guide you through it. I've watched enough of them to feel comfortable doing it myself if the occasion ever comes.
By the way my best friend lives in Rhome, next time I'm up that way maybe we can get together.
Curtis
That would be great! I'm not afraid to jump in, but it's nice to have someone around to point and guide the way!
I have done over 25 of these on the 94-03 Magna's and it cures the midrange
issues as well as the deceleration popping.
If you are running aftermarket exhaust and K&N air filter then I would also
suggest the Dave Dodge main jets (105s are what he sells and work great!!!)
I DO NOT recommend the Dyno Jet kit either, as they have you drill the vacuum
slides, they are expensive. Dave's setup is a simple install and no part
modifications necessary.
The job is more intimidating that what it really is, here is a write.
OK several have asked if I can do a write up on how to clean the carbs on a
Magna. This will be an exact reference to the non California model 94-03
Magna's but a lot will hold true to the previous generations as well but they
will be different. Cali models have many many more hoses, LoL, but basically
the same.
First make sure you have a good clean place to work, assemble your tools with
a good setup metric socket set, wrenches, screwdrivers, and basics. A tip when
removing bolts and screws try to replace them from where they came from, this
will help in that you will know where they go and wont loose them.
Pull the seat by removing the 12mm bolts, once seat is removed I place a shop
towel over the battery box area to keep from in inadvertently shorting the
battery by placing a tool on it. Next turn your fuel off (would be a good idea
to have a close to empty tank) at the petcock. With a 6mm Allen wrench remove
the bolt holding the tank, lift up rear of the tank to remove the fuel supply
line. Place a shop towel under the petcock to catch the little bit of fuel that
will drain from the hose. Take a big flat blade screwdriver to help with
"breaking loose" the hose then gently twist and pull. Remove the shop towel
that now has fuel on it, take it out of the work area so you wont have to smell
it for the rest of the job. Next you must remove a small 3.5mm vent hose
located in the middle of the tank bottom, gently twist and pull it will come
off. Now remove the tank and place in a safe area. Take some masking tape and
place around the end of the small vent tube you just
disconnected so that you will remember to reconnect it when re-installing the
tank, I see this happen all the time.
Next you will need to remove the air filter housing and snorkel. The screws
running around the housing lid are soft, make sure you use a good # 2 Phillip's
and get good purchase so you don't strip the head. The lid has 9 screws holding
it to the the filter housing. It is a tight fit but the lid and housing will
slide out to the left side of the bike with patience. Be careful on to force it
as the trumpets for the carbs are soft material and will bend and distort
easily. You may have to turn the housing counter clockwise a little to get it
out. Patience is the key here it will come out just don't force it.
The air filter base has 3 Phillip's head screws holding it in place. They
will usually not come all the way out of the housing so don't worry it is a
design feature so when you wont accidentally drop them down a carb. As well as
the brackets on each side bolt to it with 10mm bolts. You will need to remove
the plastic chrome faux air cleaner covers, they have a 8mm bolt in the bottom
and 2 tension tab/grommets holding them in place. On the left side of the bike
is it necessary to remove the entire bracket to gain access to the throttle
cable mount. There will be a hose you need to remove along with the choke pull
handle, and simple slide the idle adjustment knob out of its bail. The right
side bracket does not need to be removed just the bolt at the top holding the
air cleaner base in place. There is also a vacuum hose on the rear of the
housing base that needs to be removed. Again patience in removing the air
filter base over the trumpets.
Now the top of the carbs are exposed, visually check to see if there is any
gross amounts of dirt and or varnish.
Remove the 2 Phillip's screws that hold the throttle cable adjustment mount to
the carb body. Gently work the cables loose from the throttle plate wheel, mark
if necessary each cable as you remove to make sure you get them re-installed
correctly.
The auto fuel shut off diaphragm has 2 hoses coming off one with a "T" remove
this one from the diaphragm. Usually needs gently persuasion with a flat blade
screwdriver to release.
Next you will need to loosen the rubber boots (several turns you want them
loose quite a bit) at the carbs don't loosen the bottom at the head intakes.
Your are ready to pull the carbs off, but they are in the rubber boots pretty
snug. I use 2 small pry bars or very large flat blade screwdrivers wrapped with
a shop towel to gently, I say gently to break them loose. Make sure you do not
pry on or again a part that can be broken easily. Patience again is the key you
will see or hear them release, work side to side little bit at a time to make
sure you do not damage anything.
Once the carbs are released from the boots, you will need to take the choke
cable out from under the water pipe it is wrapped underneath.
Now you can take the entire carb bank to the bench to work on after you drain
the fuel from the bowls, be care they are soft screws.
Flip the carbs upside down so the bowls are facing up, with a 6mm wrench
carefully loosen the carb bowls, once loose enough you can use a # 2 Phillip's
screwdriver. Working one bowl as at a time remove the bowl, clean the bowl with
some spray carb cleaner and a old toothbrush, wipe dry with a shop towel. You
will see the floats, main jet, and the slow jet. Refer to the manual so you
know which is the slow jet, remove it with a flat blade screwdriver. It is
brass and very easily damaged be very careful and patient with them. Once
removed use compressed air to blow through the orifice, hold to the light to see
the light shine through the orifice. If you can see the light then it is fine
re-install, if not then you need to clean it out with carb cleaner.
Re-install the bowl and go to the next carb, working one carb at a time. If
you plan to install main jets for your aftermarket exhaust then do it now, I
recommend Dave Dodge jet kit it is the easiest to do and works great,
www.drp123.com go the contact page and call him. The Jet and Shim kit will have
great instructions and a tool as well as the jets and shims. The tool is what
you will use to adjust the pilot screw. When adjusting the pilot screw I
recommend removing being careful not to loose the spring, and cleaning with carb
cleaner then re-install. Tighten down to a lite seat (remember it is brass and
will easily damage) once at the lite seat back out 2 3/4 turns for complete
stock setup. 2 7/8 turns for modified stock mufflers, 3 turns for modified
stock mufflers and K&N air filter and 3 1/4 turns for aftermarket exhaust and
K&N filter.
If installing shims which I highly recommend no matter what then remove the 3
screws holding the black plastic cover on (be very careful that you do not strip
these screws as they are very soft)(This is a great time to replace these soft
easily stripped Phillip's screws with good quality Allen head cap screws 4mm x
16 mm long, you will need 3 per carb for a total of 12. Remember the cover is
plastic, do not want to break it by over tightening.), remove the diaphragm
spring and diaphragm/vacuum piston containing the jet needle being very careful
not to tear the diaphragm. Remove the jet needle holder from the piston by
screwing one of the cover screws in the holder gently pull the holder.
Carefully remove the jet needle and the 1 factory installed shim. Add the Dave
Dodge shim in addition to the factory installed shim, I have always just added
the additional shim on top of the factory shim. Re-install the jet needle in
the vacuum piston and replace the holder, make
sure you fully seat the holder into the piston, it has an O-ring and needs to
be fully seated.
You are ready to re-install the jet needle vacuum piston assembly back into
the carb, be very care to not force anything as the jet needles are very
susceptible to damage and life will be bad. They will only fit one direction
and the needle has to insert into the main jet. Once piston assembly is back in
place carefully fit the diaphragm back into its seat groove, you will need to
exercise great patience in replacing the diaphragm making sure it is in the seat
correctly. Insert the spring and carefully line up the cover while seating the
spring into the piston housing, it will try and bend around but gently persuade
it to go straight with a small screwdriver or such. When the cover is fully
seated and you are sure the diaphragm is seated and the cover fits flat and
smooth replace the 3 cover screws. You are done, just have to do this 3 more
times, LoL.
Now to re-install the carb bank back onto the rubber boots, you will notice
on the top of the rubber boots to the middle of the engine "V" there will be 2
little guide horns, you must make sure these are outside the carb bore.
Straddle the bike with 2 shop towels placed on the top of the carb housing, push
firmly and evenly to seat the front bore's into the boots, check to make sure
the guide horns for the rear boots are still outside the carb bore then firmly
and evenly push down to seat the back bore's. Once the carb bore's are fulling
seated in the boots tighten the clamps on the boots making sure to get them
tight but not damaging the clamps.
Re-install the removed vacuum lines and throttle cables, side brackets, air
filter housing, etc and go ride!!!
Nice write-up Greg, uh.........can I get fries with that? :D :lol: :D
Curtis
Greg thanks for the carb right up. I was just about to ask some questions
that are now answered. I have a shop manual and I just put a K&N
filter in so I was almost there. I am going with dodge kit.
The pipes have been modified but I have not ckecked plugs.
I just bought the bike last month a 2000 with 6500 miles.
I am running sea foam through it now, second tank full and it is
running much better but has the famous flat spot midrange.
If I need help I will holler. Thanks again.
Ronmag
Ronmag please feel free to make one of the wrench sessions I hold, we do this all the time. Be more than glad to help ya with it.
If you have stock modified pipes and K&N airfilter I would suggest only the shims and pilot adjustment of 2 5/8 to 2 3/4.
Thanks for the invite Greg. It is a long trip but if I can plan I will
make one. I am 30 miles North of Okc. but the knowledge and
fellowship will make it worthwhile. I was wanting to visit with you
about anyone trying to do anything ridewise here in Oklahoma?
ronmag
Ooooooo, oooooooooooo, an Oklohoma ride, I'm up for it.........we can slide through Justin and pick up 2fs2ns and head on up! Where you at ronmag and I'll start putting together a route. Hopefully we can do something around Lawton, I haven't been there in around 25 years!
edit: oh, I see now you are north of OKC. Shows you what my reading level is!
Curtis
Curtis you must live to ride. I have noticed you will jump at any chance
to ride. ha,ha,ha,ha. Well I pulled a plug today. Only 500 miles
so it is hard to tell. Saw something that concerns me. The Right Front
pipe below the motor just before the first chrome cover is starting
to turn blue. Should I be concerned?
I was thinking about putting a ride togeither next spring, but I am
always game to ride. My dad lives in Ardmore and although he rides
an Indian he is fun to ride with and he knows all of the good roads.
Here is a pic of the left rear plug.
ronmag
Blue pipes equal LEAN!!! Hard to tell from the plug since it only has 500 miles and its too far away, but from what I can see I would certainly say LEAN again!!
The Dave Dodge shim kit and the adjustment will certainly HELP the situation a lot!!
Thanks Greg not just for me but it looks like you do a lot for everyone
you can. That is what I thought aswell lean. I will call Dodge on Friday.
My inlaws are in Little, near Shawnee, OK.
I'm going to try to make a wrench session before I attempt tearing into mine.
Shawnee is about an hours ride from me. I am West of Guthrie.
I will try to let you know when I am in Ardmore maybe you can
come down and ride with my dad and myself.
ronmag
does the dodge shim/jet kit come with the tool to adjust the pilot
screw? if not where can I find one?
ronmag
The DD kit comes with the tool.