Looking for suggestions. I rode the bike into work the other day and noticed that I had very little clutch in the grip. Planned to figure out how to adjust when I got home. However, when I got on the bike to head home I had NO clutch. I have checked the fluid and I have bled the line. I have checked the line and do not find a leak. Any suggestions?
Clutch is slipping all the time, or pulling all the time?
Curtis
Neither. there is no clutch!!!
As in the clutch handle pulls with no effort (cable broke) or do you have tension on the handle (clutch shoes , springs ) a little more info would help to get it......
I believe he has a Hydraulic clutch (V45 right??). I would check the slave cylinder as well.
Yes it is a hydraulic clutch Greg.
And there is no tension at all when I pull in the handle!
How would I check the slave cylinder?
This is the clutch slave cylinder instructions from the Haynes manual. Hope this helps.
Reomval and Dismantling
1) Remove the left rear crankcase cover. The Cover is retained by a single bolt on 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models; not the long collar inside the cover. On all 1100 models and 1985 through 1988 700/650 Magna models the cover is retained by three bolts.
2) Place a container under the slave cylinder to catch dirpping fluid and then remove the banjo bolt that retains the fluid line coupling to the slave cylinder cover. Allow the clutch hose to drain into the container.
3) Remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts (plus the rear cover brackt bolts where the bracket might hiner removal) and withdraw the cylinder and insulating gasket from the crankcase. Note that the cylinder assembly may separate during removal. If the piston does not come out with the cylinder, pull the piston off of the clutch pushrod and remove it from the motorcycle.
4) If the piston and cylinder come out as one unit, the cylinder can be tapped with a block of wood to force the psiton out. Another method is to reconnect the clutch hose to the cylinder and operate the clutch lever to force the piston out. A third method, if an air comressor is avaiable, is to force the piston out using compressed air, but do not try to catch the piston with your hand. Always use a thick towel or rag and apply the air in short spurts.
Inspection
5) Whenever the piston has been removed from the cylinder, the piston seal and oil seal should both be replaced. Note that the lip of the pisto seal should face into the bore.
6) Inspect both the outer surface of the piston and the inner surface of the cylinder for scoring or scratches.
7) Measure the outside diameter of the piston with a micrometer and the inside diameter of teh cylinder bore and compare to these specifications.
Slave Cylinder bore diameter
Standard-----------------38.100 to 38.162 mm (1.5000 to 1.5024 in )
Service Limit------------38.18 mm (1.503 in)
Slave Cylinder piston diameter
Standard------------------38.036 to 38.075 mm ( 1.4975 to 1.4990 in)
Service Limit--------------38.02 mm ( 1.497 in)
If either the piston or the cylinder needs to be replaced, both should be replaced together. Remove the spring from the piston and check it for weekness or damage.
8 ) With the assembly out of the crankcase, wipe the cavity clean and inspect it for the presence of any crankcase oil, which would mean a new oil leal is needed in the cavity. To replace this pull out the clutch pushrod and pry the old seal out, drive the new one in using a suitable sized socket.
Reassembly and Installlation
9) If the long pushrod was removed, chrease it lightly and insert it into the oil seal. On 1985 trhough 1988 700/750 Magna Models the gold anodized end of the pushrod should be on the slave cylinder side of the engine.
10) Assemble the slave cylinder by attaching the spring to the piston and installing the piston into the cylinder body with the oil seal side facing out. Prior to installing the pisto or piston seal, lubricate them with a medium grade high-tempure silicon grease or brake fluid.
11) Installation of the assembly is the reverse fo the removal procedure, while noting the following.
a) Install the insulating gasket between the slave cylinder and crankcase.
b) New sealing washers should be used on each side of the fluid line banjo bolt.
c) On later models ensure that the line coupling butts aganst the cast tab on the slave cylinder.
d) fill the clutch fluid reservior with fresh fluid and bleed the system.
Since you have bled the line try this tip: http://www.magnaownersoftexas.org/tips.htm#A1.19
Also check the bottom of the reservoir to see if the holes are stopped up with gunk.
If that doesn't work the seals in the reservoir or the slave cylinder could be bad or there is air in the system.
Greg,
Did you have any luck getting your clutch to work?
I'm not too far from you so if you need some help give me a shout and we'll see when we can get you going. I may have some repair kits so you won't have to wait until you can get some ordered.
Jeff, still no luck, but we don't live so close anymore. I have moved to Las Colinas
You are still not very far from me. Maybe we can find a time to meet up to look at it or a wrench session will come up that you can make.
A wrenching session will work if I can find someone with a truck and trailer that I can sweet talk into coming to get the bike! LOL
Quote from: gkeyA wrenching session will work if I can find someone with a truck and trailer that I can sweet talk into coming to get the bike! LOL
Sounds like you need to host.... :lol:
WOO HOO
Just thought I would let everyone know I finally have it fixed. Just had to buy a new hydraulic line.
Awesome glad to hear ya got it fixed did ya get the stainless one or just go back stock.
Make sure you get it flushed good and make sure you bleed all the air out, a mity mini-vac is great for this.
Glad to hear it was not the clutch!!!
I am glade your clutch is fixed. That is awesome.
At the next wrench session I was going to look at changing my radiator and brake fluid.
I got the stainless mesh one. The only stock ones I could find were used, and cost just as much.