Storing The Bike Question and Opinions

[tmds3]

O.K a buddy of mine said that I might try taking the fuse out of the bike for the headlights and running lights while I have to stored when I can't ride to help keep the battery charged when I start and run it.This is in place of a battery tender.

Also was wondering what everyones thoughts are on some upgrades.

1. Cycle-istic risers
2. Drag bars
3. S/S lines for all cables
4. Mapam forward controls
5. S/S covers for the water hoses if I can find them and hose ends
6. V&H pipes(mine are LOUD)
7.New seat-not sure of style

These upgrades will be done as money and the wife allow,don't want to sleep with the dog.

[mainerider]

Don't think yanking the fuse makes much difference.


As to the farkles, I can speak to these:

1. The risers are a great investment if you like a more upright position; I have them and like them.

2. The SS brake line made a world of difference.

3. My Mustang seat is a huge improvement over stock.

4. One item I would add to your shopping list: Cycle-istic's centerstand; it makes many maintainence chores so much easier. It's well worth the cost.

Joe

[tmds3]

4. One item I would add to your shopping list: Cycle-istic's centerstand; it makes many maintainence chores so much easier. It's well worth the cost.

Joe

Is this easier than using a Torin lift? I have one but haven't actually used it yet for anything. First thing I know will use it on is installing the new Progressive Springs I have.
                                                      David

[Sledge Hammer]

O.K a buddy of mine said that I might try taking the fuse out of the bike for the headlights and running lights while I have to stored when I can't ride to help keep the battery charged when I start and run it.This is in place of a battery tender.

These upgrades will be done as money and the wife allow,don't want to sleep with the dog.

Can't comment on the upgrades you mention except for the seat,. but I'm pretty happy with my Corbin Gunfighter saddle.

As far as your buddy's advice goes, unless you store it with the ignition switch and kill switch both on, yanking the fuse will just give you something to amuse yourself when you have forgotten about when it comes time to ride again. Lead-acid batteries self-discharge internally when not being charged and are otherwise unloaded. You can charge one up and completely remove it from the vehicle and it will still discharge itself. You'll know when the battery is leaking down through the lights because they will be on for several minutes.

Having said that, removing the battery from the bike and keeping it on a trickle charger away from ignition sources (you probably don't want to set off the hydrogen gas it gives off while charging), will keep it fresh without your having to run wire off the terminals on the bike. Above all, if the battery is going to be subjected to an unheated environment, you will need to keep it charged to avoid the risk of its freezing and bursting if it is allowed to get really cold.

[roboto65]

If you plan on riding alot then go with the Mustang I love mine if you are just riding around town the Corbin is great and looks good but I do not think I could ride it for long trips!!!

[lragan]

I am in total agreement with Mike's post, given that the bike will sit for long periods without being started.  If you are faithful to run it a few minutes every week to keep the carbs clear, the cylinders lubed, etc., then you can charge the battery faster without the lights.  You will have to run it for some time just to replace the charge used to start it, especially if it is cold and Maggie is a bit reluctant to fire up.

If I knew I would not be riding my '96 for a few months, I would drain the gas from the tank and carbs, buy some desiccant plugs to keep the cylinders dry, remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger as Mike advised, and cover it with a good cover, under which I would install a small light bulb (I use 15 watts under my cover) to prevent condensation.  If you have a way to get the bike on a lift or otherwise block it so the tires are off the ground, I would do that, too.

Just my 2 cents...

[L J VFR]

O.K a buddy of mine said that I might try taking the fuse out of the bike for the headlights and running lights while I have to stored when I can't ride to help keep the battery charged when I start and run it.This is in place of a battery tender.

Also was wondering what everyones thoughts are on some upgrades.

1. Cycle-istic risers
2. Drag bars
3. S/S lines for all cables
4. Mapam forward controls
5. S/S covers for the water hoses if I can find them and hose ends
6. V&H pipes(mine are LOUD)
7.New seat-not sure of style

These upgrades will be done as money and the wife allow,don't want to sleep with the dog.

Buy the vance and hines exhaust.  SS line for front brake.  EBC aftermarket front brake pads.  progressive front fork springs. Mustang seat, and then ride till you can't ride no more!!

[tmds3]

.  If you have a way to get the bike on a lift or otherwise block it so the tires are off the ground, I would do that, too.

Just my 2 cents...

Well I went ahead and bought a Torin lift to get the bike off the ground. I put some Sea-Foam in the tank and have run about half a tank thru so far and plan on filling up and putting more in before I have to quit riding. Sure am gonna miss this summer

[Slydynbye]

I would rather get the center stand than put it on a lift long term.
I have a Torin lift and I have never felt like it was rock solid with the Magna on it.
Always feel like it wants to get off by sliding backwards.
Does anybody have a good tie down system for the Magna on a Larin?
I have the one that Sears sells for about $90.

[lragan]

I have a cheap lift from Harbor Freight.  As is noted in the "Tips and Tricks" section, http://www.magnaownersoftexas.com/tips.htm#A1.20 -- the 3rd gens are tail heavy when put up on a lift.  I built a similar adapter to the one in the link with a welder, some angle iron, and a length of pipe that I split in two.  The adapter goes between the lift and the bike, allowing the lift point to be moved aft.  I tie the bike to the lift using ratcheting tiedowns, also from Harbor Freight.  It is quite stable.  I use it often, as it gets the bike up where it is easy to work on.

I posted a picture of this somewhere on the forum some time ago, but am not sure it still exists.  It is necessary to cut and weld to build one.

I tried building the one in the link above out of wood, but it was too thick -- my cheapo lift would not collapse far enough to fit it under the bike with the wooden adapter in place.

[mainerider]

4. One item I would add to your shopping list: Cycle-istic's centerstand; it makes many maintainence chores so much easier. It's well worth the cost.

Joe

Is this easier than using a Torin lift? I have one but haven't actually used it yet for anything. First thing I know will use it on is installing the new Progressive Springs I have.
                                                      David


The great thing about the centerstand is the mobility; if you get a flat, if you're traveling and need to do a little maintainence such as lubing the chain or changing/checking the oil/filter, if the tar is too soft for the sidestand, etc. Just a royal pain for a chain drive bike to not have a c-stand.
Joe

[tmds3]

mainerider,

   Unfortunately for me long rides are out of the question. Too many years of being an adrenaline junkie has taken its toll on the old body parts. So anything over about an hour or two is pretty much out of the question for me .  Everytime I want to go on long rides I am planning on trailering the bike and then doing short rides. We are planning on taking the bike to Estes Park,Colorado and riding over the mountain and back, not a really long ride because of all the stops to site see. Beautiful country to cruise Thur even in a car.
Thanks                                         
tmds3(David)

[Sledge Hammer]

David,

If you do get a Corbin seat, be advised that it is very firm and takes a while to break it in. It was fine for my twenty-minute commute to the office, but when I went on a two-hour group ride, I was counting the seconds until I could get off that thing, and that was after the first half hour. I have to say, the stock seat would have been worse for me since it gave me lower back aches after twenty minutes of riding.

It seems to have softened up a bit since I wiped it down with Armor All. Just switched to using Lexol amnd think I prefer it. More recent rides of thirty to forty minutes have not been at all unpleasant.

A stock Corbin will cause you to sit about one inch lower and one inch farther back. Farther back suits me well, but I would rather have added an inch to the ride height instead of losing it. Even so, it is still a much better saddle for me than the stock unit is. I feel like I have greatly improved control over the bike in cornering compared with the stock seat, and as far as the aspect of personal comfort is concerned, like William Sanders aka ezryder says, "Don't give me no plastic saddle, let me feel leather when I ride!"