Dyno Tuning

[LIMagna]

BTW, Harbor Freight now has a pretty herky looking chain break tool for up to 530 chain for a much lower price than I paid for mine.  I think it was under $20.  I am getting stronger willed, as I resisted the urge to buy it .  I mean, I already have one, right?  I am a sucker for a low price, for sure .

  Is this the one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66488

only $12.99 ... that is cheap.  Is this tool also used to set the pin in the new chain or is that yet another tool?

[lragan]

I haven't opened the box in the store, but I believe this is the same device.  It is a break only.  I don't think it has the staking anvils with it. Next time I get to HF, I will see if they still have it locally, and open the box. 

[roboto65]

I own the Motion Pro tool and I always grind the heads just makes it so much easier to use the tool and less chance of breakage and great support broke it the first time and they replaced the broke pins with some extra springs....  It has done a few MOOT chains LOL

[TLRam1]

I own the Motion Pro tool and I always grind the heads just makes it so much easier to use the tool and less chance of breakage and great support broke it the first time and they replaced the broke pins with some extra springs....  It has done a few MOOT chains LOL

An example,

I have a Motion Pro tire tool that has never bent and one a few dollars less expensive that bent like crazy on Bob's Rocket rear tire, used both at the same time on his tire with the less expensive one bending.

When it comes to tools I like the good stuff, not saying I don't shop or have HF in my garage, selective in my choosing is all.

Not a reflection on anyone, a motto I use at times.

"Good food ain't cheap & cheap food ain't good" can be paralleled to tools.

Boils down to available funds and how much you want to spend, a good rule of thumb is buy the best you can or want to afford.

[BA]

Round two finished on the dyno tonight.  A/F ratio @ idle is 13.4 with the stock 40 jets and the D screws turned out 2-1/4 turn.  That circuit is done now.  Ran my full power run WOT and the A/F ratio came right down to 13.2 over 6K rpm with the 108 main jets, but we got a 2 HP increase so my instructor thinks the bike wants more fuel.  He gave me a set of 110 main jets and wants me to change them out for my next class on Thursday.  Hopefully I can get it done and it stops raining.  If we overshoot and the HP drops with the larger jets I'll go back to the 108's.  Once we get the mains correct we'll work on the needle position.  I hope my 3 shims on each works out.  This is getting fun.  The proof is in the data and no more guess work.

[TLRam1]

This is going the direction I thought it might, with 110 and stock exhaust, I don't know. Could be fine and eliminate your mid-range lean condition.

How much did the 108's help mid range lean?

Any significant changes in torque?

If you have A/F ratios for the first run we can post those for comparisons and for a base, what A/F ratios/range are you shooting for?

I thought this format would be easier to follow.

Starting Point 1st Run

Pilot Jets - 40
Pilot Screws - 2-3/4 turns out
Mains  - 105
Needle Jets - 3 Total Shims on each
K&N Air Filter
Two 7/16" holes drilled on rear plates of stock mufflers

Peak numbers

79 HP  
46 ft-lbs of torque (both at about 9K rpm).

Notes;
1. Showed a very lean condition between 2000 and 6500 rpm.
2. Idle was just a little rich

___________________________________________________________________________


2nd Run

Adjustments;

1.   Pilot screws turned in
2.   Install larger Mains.

Pilot Jets - 40
Pilot Screws - 2-3/4 turns out
Mains  - 108
Needle Jets - 3 Total Shims on each
K&N Air Filter
Two 7/16" holes drilled on rear plates of stock mufflers

A/F Ratio @ Idle – 13.4

A/F Ratio @ WOT - 13.2

81 HP  
?? ft-lbs of torque

Notes,
Will install 110 Mains per Instructor.
_____________________________________________________________________

[L J VFR]

Wow, this info has my mind racing now.  He has 108 mains and stock exhaust with a couple of holes drilled.  With my vance and hines exhaust, wondering if my 110 main jets aren't big enough with my k/n?  Maybe I should go back to 40 size pilot jets.  Hmmmm, decisions.

[BA]

We had a different instructor last night that provided a better explanation on the A/F ratio graph we get during the 100% power runs we were doing.  This run only indicates what is happening through the idle/main jet circuit.  When you crank the throttle wide open, the needles pull up and virtually have no affect on the A/F ratio because all the fuel is flowing through the mains, so the only useful ratio is measured at the upper RPM range.  We first measured/adjusted it at idle where the main jet has no contribution.  The proper steps to tuning a carb on the dyno are as follows:

1.  Tune the idle circuit with no load for correct A/F ratio (jets and A/F screw adjustments)
2.  Tune the main circuit with no load for correct A/F ratio (at WOT only the idle and main circuits provide fuel)
3.  Tune mid-range circuit (needles) by stepping through the rpm range with varying loads for correct A/F ratio by making needle changes (i.e. number of shims used or different tapers).  This lets you see what the needle is contributing at various positions as it pulls out of the needle jet.  If you need more or less fuel at certain needle positions there are some manufacturers that offer different tapers (I didn't know this and don't know if any are available for the Magna).

Like I said, this is getting fun and interesting.  Tonight I put in the 110's and tomorrow we'll see what happens.

[BA]

Got the 110 main jets installed tonight.  It feels like it's pulling harder from 6K rpm and up.  We'll see what the dyno tells us tomorrow night.  When the jetting is as good as we can get it, Chad gave me a Dyna 3000 ignition module to play with.  I'll bring it to class just in case we get lucky and have time to install it and make a couple runs.

Terry - When I'm finished, I'll summarize all the information and data collected from the baseline runs through all the incremental steps until we get to where I end up.  This is fun.

[TLRam1]

Got the 110 main jets installed tonight.  It feels like it's pulling harder from 6K rpm and up.  We'll see what the dyno tells us tomorrow night.  When the jetting is as good as we can get it, Chad gave me a Dyna 3000 ignition module to play with.  I'll bring it to class just in case we get lucky and have time to install it and make a couple runs.

Terry - When I'm finished, I'll summarize all the information and data collected from the baseline runs through all the incremental steps until we get to where I end up.  This is fun.

Great, thanks for the info and your time doing this, make sure and tell the instructor thanks also from us. Be nice if you had some V&H's to play with also but the instructor may not have the time for that.

[BA]

I'm wondering if I can convince them to let me run Chads bike.  Maybe I could tell them that I bought the V&H pipes and it ran so fast that the paint changed from black to red (hehe).  It would be nice to compare with another bike that was tuned by the seat of his pants.

[Chad in Michigan]

))) I AM SOOOO GAME!!! LETS DO IT!

[BA]

Well, we didn't get to complete the dyno runs I wanted to do tonight, but it looks like the 110's are what I'm going to leave in for now.  I'll put in the Dyna ignition and play with that a little this weekend before going back on the dyno next Tuesday.  With the shape of my power curve, I should be able to gain additional HP over 9K rpm with any of the curves except for stock.  We'll continue with step testing under moderating loading to see how the needles work.

[Chad in Michigan]

you are going to want to use curve #4 for the most part. that one worked out the best for me, and i think everyone else that has ran that so far. i've tried some of the other curves, but with lowered power. there is a way you can use the retard feature and make additional curves by setting the number of degrees to retard the timing when you ground out that white wire. doing that, you can use a higher advance curve, but choose a retard point between 1 and 10 degrees and basically reshape the preset curves. i have yet to play with all that, but it can be done.

[BA]

I'll probably only use curve 2 & 4.