Idle mixture screws, Pilot screws, or Fuel screws are they all the same screw?

[Cadmandu]

  I have a set of VD51E 's for my 84 VF700C. I will be buying a Premo carb kit from Billy C soon and plan on cleaning and rebuilding them. I am very confused about the idle mixture screws. I just purchased a Pilot Screw adjusting Tool and a Carb Tool 90 degree with bits from Motion Pro, and a Carbtune Pro from Power Sports this carb project will cost 300.00 in tools and kits. But, since I have a V65 also I guess they will all pay for themselves in time. Here are my questions:
     
        1 The subject line is my first question.
        2. Does the pilot screw meter the fuel or the air jet?
        3. If it is the fuel then cw would make her go lean correct?
        4. MOOT #156 explains about the lean roll off method what tach should I buy?
        5. I also bought a sync tool that looks like a socket and screw driver with a handle to hold the nut loose.
        6. What is the Carb tool 90 Degree with bits used for?, it has the famous D bit? So I have 3 tools and only 2 adj, the sync and pilot screws

[dgc67]

1.  Yes, there is only one air/fuel mixture screw.  There is a pilot JET inside the carb, I took mine up one size with a K&N filter rather than turning the screw all the way out.
2.  Fuel
3.  Yes
4.  no clue
5.  can't really picture it.  Did you mean the cam/valve adjust tool?
6.  to make it easier to reach in and adjust the 'idle' screw on the inside carbs when doing a sync.  I think.  Never used one myself.  The 'd' bit is for 3rd gen bikes I think.

I have been known to be wrong,    so if someone spots an error please correct me.

[Cadmandu]

Hi DG,
Is the air/fuel mixture screw the one with the plug over it so you can't adjust it? I assume that each carb has one? When you said that their is only one is that per rack or per carb? The more I know the less I understand. Dah!!!!!!!!!
Thanks DG

[dgc67]

Yes, that is it under the cap.  One per carb. 

[Greg Cothern]

If you turn the fuel air mixture screw in clockwise it will close down leaning the mixture.  If you turn it counter clockwise it will open and richen the mixture.
They may still be covered with the factory plugs, if so a simple small sheet metal screw started gently into them to be used as a handle to YANK them out LoL.  Revealing a small flathead screw underneath, this is your adjustment fuel air mixture screw. 
The 90° wrench is for syncing or for a 94-03 fuel air mixture as it is on the bottom by the bowl...

[Cadmandu]

Thanks Greg and Dan,
  It is always fun to come home and sign in to see if you got ant hits on your post. I have been reading about the lean roll off method of adjusting the pilot screws can u tell me what a good digital timing light and tach to buy. The article said that it has to be able to read a change off 50 rpms what do you guys use? What do you use the Carb Adjust Tool for from Motion Pro?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0022/

Can anybody tell me how the two 100 psi gauges with the .04 rectricter in the middle works when you are building a leak down tester.

Thanks for all your help

[Greg Cothern]

To tell the truth I did mine by ear.....      

If you can find a digital type readout tach or such, however I felt I could do it bye ear and watching stock tach and get it close enough..  AND save the time & money in not buyng a tach.

[Cadmandu]

hi Greg,
A guy posted the old propane in the velocity stack method of determing if you have a rich or lean carb. Have you ever heard of that one?
I have four options here: 1) The lean roll off
                                  2) The tach method
                                  3) The CO meter, is that the same thing as the EGA analyser
                                  4) The propane method
I also learned last night about the tune up sequence: 1) Replace the Cam chain tensioner with the new one
                                                                       2) Clean and rebuild carbs
                                                                       2) Valve adjustment
                                                                       3) Carb Sync
                                                                       4) Fuel/Air mixture
Does that sound right to you? Today I drained the coolant and pulled the radiator, and popped the carbs out of their boots. I have no idea how to get the choke and throttle cables off. I saw a guy on you tube loosen the whole bracket but the screws are behind the cables. I noticed when I pulled the coils that the plug wires had numbers on them like coil 1 and 2 and 3 and 4,but they did not come from the corresponding cylinders. I have all the stuff I need for two oil mods so I will be doing that as well.

[silveradocowboy]

I also learned last night about the tune up sequence:Does that sound right to you?  

Yep

I have no idea how to get the choke and throttle cables off.  

Choke: Loosen the screw on the bracket holding the cable, slide cable out of bracket, rotate cable to where the cable and cable end will slide out of the choke lever on the carbs.

I noticed when I pulled the coils that the plug wires had numbers on them like coil 1 and 2 and 3 and 4,but they did not come from the corresponding cylinders.

Cylinders 1 -3 are the rear cylinders with 1 being on the left. IIRC cylinders 1 - 3 go to the same coil and the same with 2 - 4. Only reason it would matter that the plug wires go to the said cylinder is that each of the wires is shaped to fit their appropriate location/cylinder.

[silveradocowboy]

I have no idea how to get the choke and throttle cables off. 

I forgot the throttle cables....oops.

After you remove the choke cable work the carb bank out the left side. Rotate the carbs so that the bottom side is up and use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nuts away from the cable end. I found it somewhat helpful to mark the threads so you can adjust the cables back to their original location when you re-install. You will have to do one at a time IIRC. Remove the cables from the bracket pushing the cable in towards the carbs so the cable can be removed in the same manner as the choke cable.

[dgc67]

I found it somewhat helpful to mark the threads so you can adjust the cables back to their original location when you re-install.

or only loosen one of the 2 nuts.  You don't need much clearance to slide it out.

For future carb work, I never removed the radiator, only the return line/thermostat on the right side.

[Cadmandu]

Thanks guys,

  Here is where I have a problem, I have a real pretty set of carbs that I bought off of Ebay for 100.00, which I am going to tear down and clean and I will be buying the 90.00 carb kit from Billy C. If I measured and documented the threads and nut setting of the throttle cable and chock cable could I use this data for the new set of carbs. The carbs that are on their are dirty and sometimes have a fuel rail leak at the # 1 carb. Can u guys help me find the guy that sells the aluminum fuel rails? After doing all this work I decided to just pull the engine and do a valve adj and leakdown test on my other motor that I bought a year ago. It has 18K on it and is in very nice condition. My old engine has a noisy cam chain and the clutch is slipping. Can u do a leak down test on an engine without the carbs and pipes in place?

Thanks DG, Jeff and Greg it is so nice to have you guys for friends. I doubt very much if I would try this stuff without you.
God Bless the Mootsters

[dgc67]

I am betting Billy C. knows how to reach the guy with the aluminum fuel tubes.

I don't see why you would need the carbs/exhaust to do a leak down test.

[Cadmandu]

Thanks Dan,
You have been a great help. I had an awful time getting that bottom or forward throttle cable out. I got the side frame off and the carbs out tonight. The starter is off and the mega phones. I have one exhaust ring that is stuck to the stud. The things is rusted on and is now soaking in some Kroil oil.
Do I need to remove the chrome shrouds on the rear pipes to remove them. I have two frozen screws. I will be using SS pan heads when I put them back. If I put my new carbs back and the cables are not adjusted correctly can they be adjusted after installation. I could barley work on them out of the boots. Well its 9:30 PM in Pittsburgh and time for old tired Scooter mechanics to hit the hay.
Thanks for all your help.
Dan, my name is Dan also