1st gen help???

[boastarr]

My mom had passed and left me an 82 vf750c. It sat for 3yrs and took me a little time to get it running. Now I'm having clutch issues. Ive bled it through the banjo bolt and the bleeder valve and it still won't inguage. Does anyone know where I can get a master cylinder rebuild kit or a new master cylinder really cheap??

[John Luttrell]

First of all, sorry about the loss of your mother, I lost mine ten years ago and know what it feels like.  As far as the clutch goes, is it not disengaging?  Because usually the problem with a hydraulic clutch is when the seals go bad or it gets air in the system, it will not disengage the clutch; if your clutch will in engage and is just slipping, it's time for a set of clutches.

[SkyRide]

Ditto what John says.

My 83 is extremely hard to bleed completely.  Air collects at the banjo bolt on the master and can't be purged by pumping.  I apply pressure on the clutch lever and just crack open the banjo being sure to close the banjo before the leaver bottoms out.

[filstoy]

I'm assuming you meant the clutch won't disengage. The Honda part number for the clutch master cylinder rebuild kit is 22886-MBO-305. There are a couple on ebay if Honda no longer makes that kit. You also need to check the clutch slave cylinder. That will do the same thing.  K&L Supply makes a seal kit for that and their part number is 32-0129. I just rebuilt mine last year and I couldn't find the K&L kit anywhere locally so I just ordered the seals from the Honda dealer. Anyway, you can Google both those numbers and find them or just get them both off of ebay because I doubt you will find them locally. I just checked and they are both on there.

BTW, SkyRide is right about the air getting trapped in the line and making it hard to bleed. I used a MityVac and bled it down at the slave bleeder screw and had it done in a couple of minutes.

[lragan]

I find the easiest way to bleed the clutch system is to open the reservoir at the top, then use a pump type oil can to pump fluid in from the bottom.  The bubbles naturally rise, so pumping fluid in this direction works well.  When no more bubbles appear in the reservoir, close the valve at the bottom, and button the whole thing up (with the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, of course).

[filstoy]

I find the easiest way to bleed the clutch system is to open the reservoir at the top, then use a pump type oil can to pump fluid in from the bottom.  The bubbles naturally rise, so pumping fluid in this direction works well.  When no more bubbles appear in the reservoir, close the valve at the bottom, and button the whole thing up (with the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, of course).

Sounds like a great idea. What do you connect the can up to, the slave bleeder ? And what do you hook it up with, a plastic hose or something ?

[boastarr]

Wow it sounds like you guys know your stuff. The clutch has no tension at all. I try to put it in gear while its running and it dies and lunges forward. That's why I'm thinking its the master cylinder. I'll have to look into thoes kits.

[lragan]

I find the easiest way to bleed the clutch system is to open the reservoir at the top, then use a pump type oil can to pump fluid in from the bottom.  The bubbles naturally rise, so pumping fluid in this direction works well.  When no more bubbles appear in the reservoir, close the valve at the bottom, and button the whole thing up (with the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, of course).

Sounds like a great idea. What do you connect the can up to, the slave bleeder ? And what do you hook it up with, a plastic hose or something ?

Yes, I have a clear plastic tube that I connect to the tip of the oil can and press over the bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder.  I first devised this technique in bleeding the brakes on a 1947 Stinson airplane.  I had, for years, used a clear plastic tube pressed over the bleeder on slave cylinders to bleed car brakes.  I just placed the other end of the tube to exhaust into the master reservoir, and pumped until there were no bubbles in the tube. It took a long time or two people, as it was necessary to close the bleeder valve before releasing the brake pedal, then open it again to pump.  On the Stinson, though, I couldn't pump fast enough to force the bubbles down through the slave cylinder and out, so I came up with this system.  It has the obvious advantage that you don't have to keep closing and opening the bleeder valve.  I have used the "pump from the bottom" method on most brake systems since. 

I have a "vacuum" style pump I use on my 1982 Massey-Ferguson tractor, where the slave and master cylinders are at essentially the same altitude.  It pulls fluid out the slave cylinder bleeder fitting, and works well.  It collects the fluid into a reservoir in the line.  I bought it at Harbor Freight, as I recall.

[filstoy]

That's a great tip and thanks for sharing it. I actually tried it on my Chevy truck last night . Worked like a charm. 

[John Luttrell]

I find the easiest way to bleed the clutch system is to open the reservoir at the top, then use a pump type oil can to pump fluid in from the bottom.  The bubbles naturally rise, so pumping fluid in this direction works well.  When no more bubbles appear in the reservoir, close the valve at the bottom, and button the whole thing up (with the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, of course).

Sounds like a great idea. What do you connect the can up to, the slave bleeder ? And what do you hook it up with, a plastic hose or something ?

Yes, I have a clear plastic tube that I connect to the tip of the oil can and press over the bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder.  I first devised this technique in bleeding the brakes on a 1947 Stinson airplane.  I had, for years, used a clear plastic tube pressed over the bleeder on slave cylinders to bleed car brakes.  I just placed the other end of the tube to exhaust into the master reservoir, and pumped until there were no bubbles in the tube. It took a long time or two people, as it was necessary to close the bleeder valve before releasing the brake pedal, then open it again to pump.  On the Stinson, though, I couldn't pump fast enough to force the bubbles down through the slave cylinder and out, so I came up with this system.  It has the obvious advantage that you don't have to keep closing and opening the bleeder valve.  I have used the "pump from the bottom" method on most brake systems since. 

I have a "vacuum" style pump I use on my 1982 Massey-Ferguson tractor, where the slave and master cylinders are at essentially the same altitude.  It pulls fluid out the slave cylinder bleeder fitting, and works well.  It collects the fluid into a reservoir in the line.  I bought it at Harbor Freight, as I recall.

LOL, never too old to learn something new, never used that method before and as a retired, certified aircraft/automotive mech, that's saying something.

[boastarr]

Ok I went to harbor freight and found a 9oz high pressure oiler thing. I'm going to clean the crap out of the master cylinder then try to bleed from the bleeder valve up and see what happens.

[hootmon]

Ok I went to harbor freight and found a 9oz high pressure oiler thing. I'm going to clean the crap out of the master cylinder then try to bleed from the bleeder valve up and see what happens.

Pictures pleeze

[Greg Cothern]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-VF700-C-Magna-Clutch-master-cylinder-kit-84-86-/261000471004?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc4d721dc&vxp=mtr

[filstoy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-VF700-C-Magna-Clutch-master-cylinder-kit-84-86-/261000471004?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc4d721dc&vxp=mtr

The K&L part# for that is 32-1081 just in case anyone needs it. I overlooked that one in the catalog before.

[tedkraus]

I did the master cyl. rebuild kit that Greg linked to on ebay on my first Magna.  This and a good bleed job cleared up all my clutch issues.  I think the ebay kits were really good for the $$$.