Bright White LED Running Lights

[lragan]

When my admittedly tired battery gave it up on the way home from Ft. Davis (not at first start in the morning, but when we pulled off for the first rest stop), I have come to suspect that the rather high power cheap-o Wal-Mart running lights I had on the whole time draw more current than is prudent.

I have done a web search for white LED running lights, and find a passel of them, most of which have no specifications at all regarding light output.  Defining and measuring light intensity is a tricky topic, which I hope to avoid here, so my question is simple:

Has anyone tried any of the new high brightness small lights to augment the headlight and provide more frontal visibility?  If so, what brand/model do you have, and how do like them?

[hootmon]

great topic...
One thing to think about on a side note...  I had a regulator that I believe lost one of the three legs..
The result was it kept the battery up OK except when I ran my aux light. If i ran the Aux. lights, after about an hour of running, I'd slow down for a stop light or something and the engine would want to die from low spark...
Are you sure your regulator is 100%?

[hop along]

Not LED, but I do run PIAA 1100X auxiliary lights that are mounted on a Cobra lightbar.  I am able to run them all day without issue, but if I need heated grips or heated jacket liner, I have to choose as I can't run anything else while they are on.  IIRC they are each 55w draw (110watt total).

It really sucks choosing on a cold, dark night: choose to be warm, or choose to see...   

I will look forward to seeing everyone else's suggestions!
Hop Along

[lragan]

Thanks to both of you for your inputs. 

Hoot, I will use an oscilloscope to look at the regulator output waveform.  It should be obvious if one leg is not working.  I replaced the battery (in the parking lot of Wal-Mart in Uvalde, TX) and everything seems to be OK since.  The battery was definitely at least part of the problem.

Hoppy, my aux lights are said to draw 50W each, according to the label on the box.  I have not measured the current, so I don't really know.  I remember checking the forum here for estimates of the total power available from the R/R, and deciding that I could afford the lights, so was a bit surprised when I turned off the highway, and the bike died when the engine dropped to idle.  Usually when one has a battery issue, the bike will fail to start.  It was a bit slow that morning, but the temperature was the coolest I had encountered on start-up since last spring, so I dismissed it as "I need to check that battery when I get home" and rode off.  It was a fine, clear, cool morning, and I was loving the ride until...  In summary, your experience provides a valuable data point. 

I am still intrigued by the idea of bright LED's but probably not $150 worth.  About $75 is my limit on this one.

[LIMagna]

While I haven't done anything up front (short of the VTX headlight), I did install one of these LED kits out back:

http://www.customdynamics.com/vtx_turn_signal_mod.htm

Very inexpensive and relatively easy install although it is a bit time consuming to fabricate and solder the light rings up.  I also swapped out the amber turn signal lenses for clear to help with visibility of the red running/brake lights.  Anyway, something similar  done to the front signals (using white LED's of course) might just do the trick.

[hootmon]

While I haven't done anything up front (short of the VTX headlight), I did install one of these LED kits out back:

http://www.customdynamics.com/vtx_turn_signal_mod.htm

Very inexpensive and relatively easy install although it is a bit time consuming to fabricate and solder the light rings up.  I also swapped out the amber turn signal lenses for clear to help with visibility of the red running/brake lights.  Anyway, something similar  done to the front signals (using white LED's of course) might just do the trick.

I have a similar kit on my wire's Sabre... Nice...