Rebuilding v65 Starter

[LateStart]

Ordered the rebuild kit tonight, any pitfalls in the rebuild process I need to know about.

Thanks

[hootmon]

DO NOT over tighten on the power stud/bolt - held with a plastic piece and easy to break.

I have access to a crank machine (used to polish crank journals) (like a slow turning lathe) (Might be able to use a slow turning drill press?) I put the armature in this and used the finest sanding material I could find and removed the black material off of the copper commutator. The idea here is to remove all of the black, and if you can get it into a nice jug,  to level out any high spots so the brushes have a nice level area to run on so they will last longer. This is copper, so it is soft and easy to remove too much, so better to have fine sanding material and take a little longer. I then used a soft non-metalic brush and some mild solvent to remove any copper dust from between the grooves.

Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward.

I think I looked up on YouTube a couple of videos that showed the rebuilding process, may not be exactly YOUR starter, but they are mostly similar and gives you a good idea.. 

BEST $18 I ever spent to save $500 over a new starter from Honda.

[LateStart]

DO NOT over tighten on the power stud/bolt - held with a plastic piece and easy to break.

I have access to a crank machine (used to polish crank journals) (like a slow turning lathe) (Might be able to use a slow turning drill press?) I put the armature in this and used the finest sanding material I could find and removed the black material off of the copper commutator. The idea here is to remove all of the black, and if you can get it into a nice jug,  to level out any high spots so the brushes have a nice level area to run on so they will last longer. This is copper, so it is soft and easy to remove too much, so better to have fine sanding material and take a little longer. I then used a soft non-metalic brush and some mild solvent to remove any copper dust from between the grooves.

Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward.

I think I looked up on YouTube a couple of videos that showed the rebuilding process, may not be exactly YOUR starter, but they are mostly similar and gives you a good idea.. 

BEST $18 I ever spent to save $500 over a new starter from Honda.

That's good to know.  Either I've gotten stronger as I approach 60 or bolts are low quality any more.  I do most of my wrenching with a 3//8 drive using my left hand or my 1/4 drive so I don't twist the bolt head off.  Nothing more depressing than tightening a bolt and feel that snap.   Even my air ratchet sees safer than using my right hand. 

I've read that a Mitsubishi armature is a swap out.

Yesterday I finished the fork seal rebuild on my 3gen magna so I won't be without a bike but I do favor the v65 for riding on the freeways.  I was a bit standoffish about doing this until I got a quote of $350 from the dealer and finding the info on this site.  The info on this site made it completely understandable on 2 pages.  Took most of the day but most of the day I was on the hunt for the right tools to do the job and probably should not have stopped for a few refreshments on the way.

[lragan]

The fine art of commutator repair is almost a lost one.  IMO, the most critical step is to undercut the insulation between the contacts once you have cleaned the contacts.  If the insulation is left at the same "height" (level with) the copper contacts, you have wasted your time and energy.  This step is not easy, and may require a Dremel tool with a small diameter abrasive wheel.

And, of course, all loose material, dust, copper filings, etc. must be completely removed.  I would replace the brushes AND the brush springs.  Springs that are too weak, or too strong, can hasten the wear on the commutator, because of arcing.  Too weak, and good sliding contact is lost, with tiny arcs ensuing.  Too strong, and the brushes "bounce", again causing arcing.

Starters are the only machinery left in bikes and automobiles that employ mechanical commutation.  Soon, those too, will be history.  Enjoy it while you can!   

[hootmon]

The fine art of commutator repair is almost a lost one.  IMO, the most critical step is to undercut the insulation between the contacts once you have cleaned the contacts.  If the insulation is left at the same "height" (level with) the copper contacts, you have wasted your time and energy.  This step is not easy, and may require a Dremel tool with a small diameter abrasive wheel.

And, of course, all loose material, dust, copper filings, etc. must be completely removed.  I would replace the brushes AND the brush springs.  Springs that are too weak, or too strong, can hasten the wear on the commutator, because of arcing.  Too weak, and good sliding contact is lost, with tiny arcs ensuing.  Too strong, and the brushes "bounce", again causing arcing.

Starters are the only machinery left in bikes and automobiles that employ mechanical commutation.  Soon, those too, will be history.  Enjoy it while you can!   

Lawrence was a great help (as always) with his advice when I was doing mine.
I did not have to under cut the areas between the copper on mine. They were already undercut enough and I took so little off that it was unnecessary.
I think they used to put the commutators on a lathe and cut them, I just used a sanding belt (in my hand, not on a machine) and while the armature was rotating in the jig, I sanded off the blackness until I had just copper left showing.. There was still plenty of undercut when I was finished.. The idea is to take as little off as you can and still get the blackness off..