New member with issues

[roboto65]

Ok think and looking at the manual anyhow maybe you purchased a California set of carbs the smaller size would make sense with the emissions they run there. As far as the seat comming out well you have me second guessing I know the 1st and 2nd gens had replaceable but I do not see them comming out in the service manual. Tell ya what give me a jingle I will PM my number...

[trapper]

I think you are right, Allen.  When rebuilding the carbs on the Super, I determined that the Float Needle and Seat had to be replaced in the first carb.  Came to this conclusion after having raw fuel pour out of the #1 cylinder exhaust port while it was running.  The parts diagram listed 2 different Needles and Seats, but was not very specific.  After talking with the guys at Honda Directline, I found out there were two different sizes, the smaller being the California spec parts.  Anyway...the Valve Seats came out with a socket.  I've only worked on the carbs from 1st & 2nd gen bikes, but I'd think the Valve Seats in a 3rd gen set of carbs would come out the same way

[Magnatic]

I think it's likely that I was unlucky enough to end up with a California set. I have opened up other carbs where it is obvious that the seat is replaceable, but this one
looks pressed in with no way to get out.

[trapper]

Strange.........

[Magnatic]

I went back down to the shed to make sure the seat isn't removable.
The seat on my original carbs is stamped 3.8 or maybe 38. The parts carbs I bought
are stamped 2.6 or 26. The seat is press fitted flush with the carb body, you can't
get it out. They must be California spec. Anyone need very rare and desirable smog
carbs?

[Magnatic]

Greg and Allen are my heroes! Allen hooked my up with Greg who helped me
out with a spare carb body, and I am almost back in business. When I put everything
back together, I had gas leaking from 2 float bowl seams and one of the fuel tubes
that connect the carbs. I shut off the gas and walked away in disgust.  After some
thought, I was hopeful that maybe the o-rings and gaskets just needed to swell some.
I checked back that night, and sure enough, no more leaks! Of course, a new problem
has cropped up. I put on new Vance&Hines pipes, and when I started it up, one of the
mufflers is louder than the rest. Then it started blowing out little strings of fiberglass.
Upon further inspection, I noticed that when looking into the muffler from the back,
the pattern of the baffle is a little different from the other three, and shreds of fiberglass can be seen sticking out from baffle holes. These are brand new. I guess I
just got an example of poor quality control. I will call the vendor in the morning, but
in the mean while I still can't ride
  Thanks again for this great forum and special thanks to Greg and Allen

[Greg Cothern]

Just glad I could help out!

[roboto65]

Yep I love this club and no problem like Greg says pay it forward !!!

[Magnatic]

OK, so I'm up and running, but not perfectly. I'm getting a lot of popping on decel, and
some coughing in spots on accel. I have tried the pilot jets between 2 3/4 up to 3 1/2 turns out without solving the issues. I think what I need to do is synch the carbs, especially since I changed out one carb body. I did not pay close enough attention to bench synching since I figured I would have to synch them running to finish this job.

Anyhow, I can't find the ports where I would attach my carbtune gauges. I have worked with older honda carbs before, and the vacuum ports were obvious. Maybe
they are obvious on the magna too, but not to me. Help please!

Also, do I have to just remove the fuel tank to be able to synch the carbs, or does anything
else have to come off? Thanks.

[lragan]

I was able to sync up my '96 carbs without removing the tank.  Put the bike up on a lift so I didn't have to crawl on my belly like a snake.  Even so, getting to the adjustment screws took some doing.  Finally bought a right angle drive wrench drive to fit the screwdriver bits I already had.  Best $12 I ever spent.

Used a "mercury stick".  Whole operation took about 3 hrs round trip.  An experienced MOOTSTER could no doubt do this in 30 minutes or less.  Bike came with shiny new Cobra pipes.  I put in the recommended carb mods, then synced them.  Runs great, and still gets ~45 mpg hwy. 

[Greg Cothern]

Make sure you do not have any air leaks anywhere along the intake side.  Decel popping is most usually caused by a lean condition. 

Look on the head intake port you will see a phillips head screw, this is what you removed to connect the sync gauges to.

Then you will need a right angle tool as mentioned earlier with either a 8mm socket or a flatblade bit.  You have to adjust #'s 2-3-4 to # 1 which is not adjustable.

[TLRam1]

I did not re-read the thread..... Pilot jets might be clogged, run Seafoam or Berrymans in the gas. 

[Magnatic]

Thanks Greg, pretty darn obvious. Is there anything special you do to deal with
#4 where there is a vacuum hose already connected?

[Greg Cothern]

I would have to look at the instructions LoL, been quite a while since I sync'ed one since I only really think it is necissary when someone tackles what you did.  For normal carb work such as pulling the entire bank and simply swapping jets/shims I dont think it is warranted.  At least the times I did it, we didnt realize any improvement.
Besides the with-in range of each other is fairly broad.