Lubricating the cables

[MagnaMan]

I want to lubricate the two throttle and clutch cables on my 3rd gen Magna. How do I disconnect them in order to get to the actual cables?  I can't seem to find this in the owners manual or the magna service manual that I downloaded.

Are there any other cables I need to worry about?

[Greg Cothern]

Jesse are the cables causing you any problems?  
Cables usually dont cause much problem, however if you want to tackle it then go for it.
The cables can be taken loose down at the carb on the left side under the chrome plastic cover and mounting bracket.  It is a little bit of a chore though.
The clutch cable is also on the left and in site without anything removed.
Hope this helps.

[MagnaMan]

I wouldn't say I was having trouble, but the throttle was smooth and quick when the dealership lubed and adjusted the cables 3,000 miles ago. Now it drags a little and doesn't snap back as quickly, so I figured I should lube the cables first before looking for something else.

Ah, so you're disconnecting them at the bottom.  I was wanting to disconnect them at the top so the oil could run downhill. But that would be too easy, right?

So then  I need to disconnect them at the base and pull the cable out so I can run it downhill when I apply the lube? Then re-route the cable and hook it up.

[Curtis_Valk]

Jesse,
Just disconnect the inner part (wire) at the bottom and slide it out leaving the sheath part in place.  Clean and re-lube the inner wire and thread it back in.  Then just connect it all back up again.

Curtis

[MagnaMan]

Curtis, aren't the inner wires connected to something at the upper end? I was just planning on disconnecting them at whichever end was easier and using a cable luber or the syringe method I read about on another Magna site. (Use an insulin syringe full of oil to get between the cable and the housing. Presto! No cable luber required.)

[Curtis_Valk]

Deleted to avoid confusing someone.  

C

[roboto65]

We will go over that to

[Curtis_Valk]

Jesse I believe my memory was playing tricks on me as it is not possible to remove the inner part of the cable from the sleeve.  I must have been thinking about some other cable in my past experience.  I am sorry for the confusion.  Your syringe trick sounds like the best bet unless someone already has a cable luber.

Too bad I can't attend the Houston area wrench session, I have learned something at each one that I attended in the past.  Chris will have to represent the Dallas area contingent I guess.

Curtis

[MagnaMan]

Thanks, Curtis.  I'm going to try to videotape some of the more technical aspects of the procedures  -- especially the carb work.  Another Magna owner I know tried it this weekend.  He emailed me that night and advised me to definitely wait for the wrenching session.  He said it took him longer than the three hours.

[chrislarue]

Welp, looks like Chris won't be representing the Northerners... sorry, guys! I was looking forward to meeting some new MOOTsters, especially since I have yet to make a MootMag. I'll keep trying...

[MagnaMan]

Well this past weekend I performed my 8,000 mile service... or as much of it that I could do.

I decided to lubricate the cables. Dave Dodge told me that the stock clutch cable had a silicone based liner and was not supposed to need lubrication but he was not sure about the throttle cables. Otherwise he recommended a cable lube called Dri-Slide. You can get it at moto or bicycle shops. The bottles are little and pricey ($15) but will last you years, so I was told by the Honda parts guy.

Silicone liners or not, I could hear my clutch cable creaking and my throttle was not snapping back very quickly. So I tore into them.

The clutch cable is very easy to lubricate. You can disconnect it by removing the clutch lever at the top. Dri-Slide comes with a long needle-like injector that let's you get between the cable and the housing. So there's not need for one of those aerosol based cable lubers.

I applied it in small amounts and worked the cable back and forth until it came out the bottom end. I wiped everything off and re-assembled. The clutch cable is phenomenally quick now. There is very little drag. Dri-slide worked great so I moved on the throttle cables.

The throttle cables involve a lot of extra work. By the time it was said and done, I ended up taking off the tank, seat and fake air cleaner on the left side so I could disconnect the cables at the carburetor. Then I disconnected them at the top. I lubed the cables in the same way as the clutch, but I also cleaned off the handlebar and applied a thin coating of general purpose (grease gun) grease per the service manual. The end of my handlebar actually had a nickel sized pitted rust deposit on it... like a pocket of water had been sitting in the hand grip.

I buffed the rust off with my wire brush on a drilll and shot some clear paint on it. Then I put everything back together.

The rust removal, the handlebar grease, and the cable lube, made a huge difference. The throttle actually snaps closed and is very quick.

Now it may be that the liners on the newer cables work better, but based upon this experience, I'm going to lube the cables even if they have the silicone liners.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

[Wayne]

Apparently a little late, but grease is bad.  It catches dust and dirt and holds it in.  It's like putting wd-40 in a lock; it works at first, but then gums up faster then 2nd time and you have to keep cleaning it.

When lubricating cable, use graphite.  They have the locksmith dust, but also the spray-on that dries out to a powder-like substance.

All the slide, none of the "wet-sticky" of oil.

[MagnaMan]

Thanks, Wayne. Are you saying don't use grease on the handgrip or the cables or both?

On the cables I used dri-slide which is a liquid-based graphite lube. The liquid carries the graphite down the cable and then I believe it evaporates leaving the graphite.

On the throttle grip (handlebar) I'm not sure graphite would work. Because the handlebar angles downward I think graphite would just collect in the end of the grip. I really think you need something thick enough to leave a coating. The grease inside of my handgrip was about 7 years old and while it had not collected dust it had collected moisture and turned that off color you see when water gets in oil.

[Greg Cothern]

Jesse, Wayne is correct use a graphite type lubrication for the cables, anything that will remain wet or sticky will only hold the dirt and cause future problems.
On the grip are you talking where the cables attach to the grip or the throttle sleeve to handlebar area?  The sleeve to the bar, I believe a quality lite grease would be fine.

[Shortround]

I use white grease on the grip. It is none staining and meant to be used in none enclosed (sealed) environments and resistant to water absorption. It's available at auto supply stores as a stick or in a small tub.