Need shorter kickstand

[dgc67]

I have lowered my bike about 2 inches and now my kickstand is too long to use safely.  Luckily I have a centerstand, but it is a hassle to use all the time.
Yesterday I tried heating my kickstand and bending it.  Got it pretty hot, turned red when flame was on it only, but that was not hot enought to bend it.  Do any of you know where I might get a shorter kickstand?

[L J VFR]

DG, you might try taking your kickstand completely off.  Then try and take 2 inches out of it. Use a cutoff saw so all cuts will be clean.  Then weld your kickstand back together and grind weld and re-paint.   I would try this first, and if it don't work, then buy a different kickstand.  Take the 2 inches out of the center of the kickstand so all cuts and welds will be straight. Hope this helps

[dgc67]

That is a good plan and had crossed my mind.  One big flaw with it though.  I don't have the tools or skills to do that.  I figure the cost of having it done at a machine shop would likely be about the same as buying one.  I have no idea where to find an aftermarket, shorter stand though.  I might go to a salvage yard with mine and see if I can find a match.

[TLRam1]

Where do you live? Maybe someone here to give you a hand, if you get the stand hot enough it will bend. Did you use a Acetylene torch or a hand propane torch? 

[L J VFR]

I am not really a fan of heating up steel, unless it is just to shape something.  But heating up your kickstand and letting it cool causes the steel to loose some strength.  I don't think I would be comfortable with it because of the weight factor of the bike. Hmm, I don't know, just talking out loud..  I could be wrong though..

[dgc67]

I was using propane.  I live in NE Houston.

[lragan]

Heating the kickstand hot enough to either:

1) bend
2) cut
or
3) weld

Will cause it to lose its temper -- meaning it will not be as stiff when you are finished.  There is a fine art to tempering steel -- cool it too fast and it becomes brittle, while if you let it cool in air, it may be too soft, and could bend under the weight of the bike. 

The point of peening steel after welding it is to relieve the stress induced by non-uniform heating and cooling, to keep the welds from cracking due to internal stresses.  To reach maximum strength, the entire piece would need to be heated uniformly to dull red then cooled at the correct rate.

I don't really know how the kickstand is tempered, or if it is.  It is pretty thick, and I would think it would hold up the bike even if it were not tempered, but that is a guess, not based on any calculations at all. 

If it were mine, I would heat it to a dull red as uniformly as possible over the length where I wanted it to bend (a gradual curve requires heating over at least two inches), bend it to shape, then dunk it in oil not heavier than 40 weight.  It could be used oil, it won't matter.  Water will, I believe, make it too hard and subject to cracking.  Make sure to do this in a well ventilated area, and have a lid handy to kill the fire just in case the oil catches fire.  Just make sure there are no flames, cigarettes, etc. available to ignite the vapor which comes off the oil when you dunk the piece.

You will probably need a gas-oxygen torch to get it uniformly hot, or a home made forge with charcoal and a blower.  You will also need tools to handle the hot steel to bend it.

If you want to ride to Austin some Saturday, I will be glad to help you do this.

[L J VFR]

Great write-up Lawrence..  I have never heard of the dunking in oil part, but makes sense.  Learn something new everyday..

[TLRam1]

I have seen the oil dunking method but never knew how to properly temper steel, haven't had a need to yet.

That is a good write-up!

DG - there you go, what a great offer if you decide to take Lawrence up on it. A trip And help to remedy your issue.

[dgc67]

I did heat about a 2 inch area as that made sense to me and I would say it was almost a dull red.  It glowed whenever I had the torch (propane) pointed at it, but not when I pulled it away.  So, once it is heated to that point, would you hammer it or try and bend?  I had it in my vice and put a pipe on the other end and was trying to bend it down.
I had not thought about heating it with a fire/charcoal.  I appreciate the offer for help.

[Charles S Otwell]

The kick stand is cast steel and is not a problem to weld. The biggest problem I see with bending it (besides getting it hot enough) is you'll have to bend it twice, once to get the angle right and again to level the foot back out. To me the foot is already too skinny, mine digs into the asphalt in the summertime. I have to watch where I park. I'm going to cut the foot off mine and weld a wider foot back in it's place and correct the heel grab, that is also a pita.

[dgc67]

Another good point I had not even considered.  The more I think about this the better the cut and weld sounds.  I guess I will look around and see if I can get it done.

[Charles S Otwell]

If you decide to let some one else cut and weld it be sure they cut it off the bottom next to the foot, that will provide the best place to make a clean weld and get the foot back flat.

PS- just because you lowered the bike two inches doesn't mean that two inches is what you need to take off the stand. Roll the bike up on a 1" thick board or dig a little out from under the stand and lean it over to get an idea. It's easier to cut it off than put it back .

[dgc67]

Another excellent point on the cutting spot.  I could even have a larger piece welded on for the foot instead of using the original one.

[L J VFR]

Charles,I'm glad you mentioned the 2" part.  I forgot too on my last post. DG, Cutting and welding will indeed give you a oppurtunity to have your bike rest on the kickstand however you like