Apparent Regulator Failures

[lragan]

I must respectfully disagree with my esteemed colleagues regarding solder.  Solder does not have a good reliability record at the end of wires in high vibration environments.  The wires fatigue right at the point where the solder stops, unless you have great strain relief to prevent this vibration.  Crimped connectors have a much better record.  They have strain relief "built in", in that there is a short piece of larger diameter metal that surrounds the insulation and holds it in place.  Wire nuts will work, too, and don't require a special tool.  They are not "in line" and make a larger lump, but they work.

I would go with the crimp connectors for a cheap solution.  If you can slip a large piece of heat-shrink tubing over the entire wire array before you make the splices, then slide it up over the splices and shrink it, you will get a neat looking package with additional strain relief built in.

[SkyRide]

If you choose to keep a connector, I recommend going to a 6 pin one with the same size pins as the original.  I solder spliced each wire into two short stubs on each side of the connector.  The current doesn't divide exactly between the two but it is close.  I did this six months ago after the second burned pin and there is no sign of overheating now.

[hootmon]

...I solder spliced each wire into two short stubs on each side of the connector.  The current doesn't divide exactly between the two but it is close. 

SkyRide;
   Thanx for the info, this is very helpful info, since it seems you have been down the same path...
   I however do not understand the above statement.. Could you clarify a little more for me..
Thanx

[hootmon]

Well;
   I have hard soldered the leads together and I seem to have voltage deflection now..
   I will update again in a day or two on how things are going.

[SkyRide]

Stock wiring is 3 wires and 3 pins on each side of the connector.  Cut the pin off and solder two short wires to the existing wire and cover with heat shrink.  Now take the two new ends and put a pin on each.  Repeat 5 more times.

I don't have the crimp tools that Lawrence mentions, so I use a needle nose pliers to bend the tabs of the pin around the wire and then solder it.  Just be careful not to let solder flow onto the pin's mating surfaces.

[Charles S Otwell]

I have seen more corroded, rusted, burnt and melted connectors than I ever have soldered connections, assuming you know how to properly connect and solder wire. IMHO.. 

[hootmon]

... assuming you know how to properly connect and solder wire. IMHO.. 

I used to be an Electronic Technician in an aerospace company, so I have some idea about soldering, etc...

I feel a little better knowing that the wires coming from the regulator are a slightly smaller gauge than in my wiring harness, SO.. If things go bad, it should be on the regulator wire side and not in the middle of my wiring harness somewhere...

[Charles S Otwell]

The you in "assuming you" was not directed at you personally, but was generic for anyone who might be doing the soldering, because all solders are not created equal. So if I offened you, my bad..

[hootmon]

So if I offened you, my bad..

You will have to try harder than that Charles..
No worries..

[Sledge Hammer]

Everything I have read and seen for myself on the subject about soldering vs crimped connectors says Lawrence is right, but it also assumes good crimping. Good crimping, though, usually requires a specialized tool for the connector you're using and can easily run you $300 if you don't have one lying around at the shop. And, of course, a connector that gets moisture in between the contacts starts to corrode and become a high-resistance connection. A friend of mine said he solved that problem on his bike by cleaning and carefully applying a small amount of dielectric grease to the contact surfaces of the connectors on his ancient Kz650, and he says it has completely solved the maddening intermittent electrical problems that were crippling his bike. He also told me that some of the connectors had shown signs before he cleaned them of running hot but that they have not deteriorated further since he applied the grease and that his battery is now reaching full charge when riding.

[lragan]

This is a good input, Mike.  I don't know for sure what is meant by "dielectric grease", but I have used a lot of carbon loaded silicone compound in securing house wiring.  Putting a dab of this compound on the connectors could yield double dividends:

1) The compound is conductive -- so it carries current across the gaps that inevitably accrue to any sliding contact system.

2) It excludes moisture, thereby preventing corrosion.

I suspect that 2) is by far the larger benefit, but don't really know.

[L J VFR]

Ok, Bob Barram has answered my much feared question on the Regulator topic post.  His 2001 magna R/R  boiled over at 15,000 miles..     Mine has a little over 14,000 on it.  Now what...

[hootmon]

Ok, Bob Barram has answered my much feared question on the Regulator topic post.  His 2001 magna R/R  boiled over at 15,000 miles..     Mine has a little over 14,000 on it.  Now what...

Buy a volt meter...

[lragan]

Ok, Bob Barram has answered my much feared question on the Regulator topic post.  His 2001 magna R/R  boiled over at 15,000 miles..     Mine has a little over 14,000 on it.  Now what...

Well, that also answers our questions about an improved design starting in 2000.  IF it was improved, it apparently was not improved enough.

Hootmon offered a possible solution by mounting his further from the engine, behind the right side panel -- then his connector gave it up, corrupting the data on that solution somewhat.

Question is, Hoot:  Did the damage to the connector occur during the relocation exercise??  And, what did you decide to do to fix it?

[hootmon]

Hootmon offered a possible solution by mounting his further from the engine, behind the right side panel -- then his connector gave it up, corrupting the data on that solution somewhat.

Question is, Hoot:  Did the damage to the connector occur during the relocation exercise??  And, what did you decide to do to fix it?
[/quote]

The original damage to the connector happened from the 1st regulator going overvoltage...
I never had an issue with the seond regulator on the damaged connector.
The website states that my 3rd Regulator puts out ~5% more power than stock, so I believe the additional current flowing through a damaged connector (More resistance) caused more heat, thus the connector going from damaged to failing..
I cut the connector out and soldered the wires and used heat shrink..
The good thing is the regulator wires are of a lesser gauge than the harness, so if things should go bad, it should not burn up my harness..
I do NOT believe my moving the Regulator had anything to do with my connector failure.

Here are a couple of pictures of the connector..