How much heat build-up is normal on the rear axle?

[Sledge Hammer]

Did the extractor mess up the bolt head?  Small price for a new bolt, given that you did not have to drill it out, just curious.  My tool is not exactly like the one in the picture, which looks to be more effective.  Where did you get it?

Lawrence, this bolt remover will definitely damage the outside of the bolt head, but given that the inside flats were rounded off completely, I had already planned on replacing the bolt.





I bought this set at Sears last night. It is called the Craftsman Power Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Screw Remover Set (Sears P/N 952168). I found that while it does not work well with the impact driver (too many adapters needed -- and frankly it isn't designed to withstand the stresses imposed by an impact driver), it worked beautifully after being driven by firm taps with a hammer and then being pressed down with a 1/4" plastic-handled driver while being turned with a snugged-down adjustable wrench. Several sharp tugs on the wrench were more effective than continuous pressure.

Incidentally, this is one case where WD-40 is no help. You could spray WD-40 around the bolt head until Doomsday and never get the least bit to the threaded end of the bolt.

The best part for me about this little success is that it occurred after getting back from the dealership and watching the mechanics there turn pale at the thought of trying to get the bolt out themselves. One had suggested drilling out the bolt head with a 15/64" bit and then tapping in a 6 mm hex, which I was about to try, but something told me to give the Craftsman bolt remover another chance. Glad I did.

Now, on to the job I was trying to do before getting bogged down with stuck fasteners...

[lragan]

Good info, Mike.

Thanks

[Smoked U]

Did the extractor mess up the bolt head?  Small price for a new bolt, given that you did not have to drill it out, just curious.  My tool is not exactly like the one in the picture, which looks to be more effective.  Where did you get it?

Lawrence, this bolt remover will definitely damage the outside of the bolt head, but given that the inside flats were rounded off completely, I had already planned on replacing the bolt.







I bought this set at Sears last night. It is called the Craftsman Power Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Screw Remover Set (Sears P/N 952168). I found that while it does not work well with the impact driver (too many adapters needed -- and frankly it isn't designed to withstand the stresses imposed by an impact driver), it worked beautifully after being driven by firm taps with a hammer and then being pressed down with a 1/4" plastic-handled driver while being turned with a snugged-down adjustable wrench. Several sharp tugs on the wrench were more effective than continuous pressure.

Incidentally, this is one case where WD-40 is no help. You could spray WD-40 around the bolt head until Doomsday and never get the least bit to the threaded end of the bolt.

The best part for me about this little success is that it occurred after getting back from the dealership and watching the mechanics there turn pale at the thought of trying to get the bolt out themselves. One had suggested drilling out the bolt head with a 15/64" bit and then tapping in a 6 mm hex, which I was about to try, but something told me to give the Craftsman bolt remover another chance. Glad I did.

Now, on to the job I was trying to do before getting bogged down with stuck fasteners...

Now that is a "cool" little "tool". Thanks.

[Capt. Howard]

Quote: Now that is a "cool" little "tool". Thanks.

You bet it is and I am on my way to buy a set a.s.a.p....Thanks... Capt.

[Sledge Hammer]

Wahll, hoooooooo-eeeey! I dunned learned sump'n noo: thare IS such a thang as too muched chain whacks.

I wuz awl whirried that I had done mist up the frunt sprawkit baring, witch wuz why I wuz awl hot 'n' botherd to get that thar sprawkit cover off. The funny thang wuz that when I cleaned the chain whacks off everthang, the noise done gone away. The outpoot shyaft ain't got no play in it and there ain't nothing but quite chain noise as I pull threw on the rear whale.

Theirs a lesson in hear somewear, and I thank it is that when trubbleshootin', always have a lookie at the simple stuff furst and don't go antissypatin' problems yew may knot half.

[lragan]

Well, now you can get the cover off when the time comes to change the front sprocket.

[Sledge Hammer]

Well, now you can get the cover off when the time comes to change the front sprocket.

Indeed, and what's interesting is that the shortest "bolt" (actually a screw by generally accepted definition) of the three was designed for a star pattern drive, probably TORX whereas the other two were meant for Allen drive. I checked that all three of the replacement screws are designed for Allen drive. At first, I thought the technician at the dealership had goofed and used the wrong socket but who would have thought that one out of the three would have a different drive recess?

By the way, Lawrence, I think I am going to take your lead and go back to using chain oil instead of chain wax as you mentioned in a post in July of last year. Probably nothing wrong with wax per se but it seems to require a little more discretion in use.

[lragan]

Indeed, and what's interesting is that the shortest "bolt" (actually a screw by generally accepted definition) of the three was designed for a star pattern drive, probably TORX whereas the other two were meant for Allen drive. I checked that all three of the replacement screws are designed for Allen drive. At first, I thought the technician at the dealership had goofed and used the wrong socket but who would have thought that one out of the three would have a different drive recess?

(emphasis added...)

Saturday Devin came out and we replaced both sprockets and the chain on his 3rd gen.  Getting the screws out was an issue.  Wound up using an Allen wrench and an adjustable "Crescent" wrench on the long leg of the 90 degree Allen wrench.  All three screws were Allen head.  All three on my bike are Allen head.  The bottom one is shorter, but they take the same wrench.  BTW, the torque spec is 7 ft-lbs.  Devin's were severely overtightened.  So, indeed was the front sprocket retention bolt.  Took a rather herky air powered impact wrench to take it off.  We put stuff back to the manual's torque spec, so it should be easier the next time someone needs to do this.

[Sledge Hammer]

Saturday Devin came out and we replaced both sprockets and the chain on his 3rd gen.  Getting the screws out was an issue.  Wound up using an Allen wrench and an adjustable "Crescent" wrench on the long leg of the 90 degree Allen wrench.  All three screws were Allen head.  All three on my bike are Allen head.  The bottom one is shorter, but they take the same wrench.  BTW, the torque spec is 7 ft-lbs.  Devin's were severely overtightened.  So, indeed was the front sprocket retention bolt.  Took a rather herky air powered impact wrench to take it off.  We put stuff back to the manual's torque spec, so it should be easier the next time someone needs to do this.

Since you didn't mention having to scrape gasket material off the engine case, I am going to guess that you didn't do what I did and blindly follow the service manual's admonition to replace the paper gasket that goes between the cover and the case. I did, or at least I have started the process and let me tell you, if the rest of the bike is as hard to get rid of as that gasket, these bikes will still be going in the Tenth Millennium AD.

[lragan]

We did not replace the gasket.  Missed that part of the instructions, I guess.

[Chad in Michigan]

ive had my sprocket cover on/off atleast 30 times, and no need for a replacement gasket Actually, if anyone needs one IF it tears on you, send me your address. I think I have three of them sitting around over here

[Sledge Hammer]

ive had my sprocket cover on/off atleast 30 times, and no need for a replacement gasket Actually, if anyone needs one IF it tears on you, send me your address. I think I have three of them sitting around over here

Yeah, I fell for that little joke that Honda put in the service manual. When I eventually start laughing about it, I am afraid I might not be able to stop.

[Sledge Hammer]

I rode mine today after new tires and chain for about 50 miles. tire was warm, right side of axle was not warm at all, the rim was pretty warm, and the left side of the axle was about as warm/hot as the rim. Maybe your rear brake is dragging and/or not releasing properly? spin it both front and backwards and listen for squealing slightly and feel or notice any drag. I noticed when i reassembled mine to where I like the brake pedal, it was dragging. I loosened it up to where it didnt drag at all, and gently worked the brake pedal more than usual and drug it ligtly for a hundred feet or so at every light. came home, readjusted a few turns tighter to where I like it, and no more drag or noise from the rear wheel.

I got mine back together last night and just got back from a ride of just under 8 miles, the last mile before getting back to my neighborhood at about 70 mph. I put it on the sidestand and immediately measured the following temperatures:

AMBIENT -- 80°F

RIGHT AXLE NUT -- 92°F
RIGHT AXLE SPACER -- 101°F
LEFT SIDE OF AXLE (HEX  HEAD) -- 125°F
LEFT AXLE SPACER -- 111°F
REAR SPROCKET -- 110°F
CHAIN, TOP SIDE AHEAD OF SPROCKET -- 115° (RESULTS SKEWED BY EXHAUST PIPE?)
REAR WHEEL RIM -- 109°F
REAR TIRE SIDEWALLS -- 107°F
REAR TIRE TREAD -- 123°F
FRONT WHEEL RIM -- N/A
FRONT TIRE SIDEWALLS -- 102°F
FRONT TIRE TREAD -- 110°F

I must say I am impressed by Chad's ability to equate temperatures between the tire tread and the head of the axle!

[Chad in Michigan]

that's just by feel, too, lol Not too shabby

[roboto65]

Thats it Mike go and blow his head up some more