95 3. gen carbs clean and shim questions

Cannon · November 10, 2009, 03:17:06 AM

Hi all
I'm going to clean the carbs this winter, following Gregs excellent instructions. The bike is stock, except from K&N airfilter.
Questions;
- What shims should be added?
- What is the reccomended settings for the carbs with shims?
- Do these shims have to come from Dave D or could I buy something from a hardwarestore or maybe make them myself?
- Can they be made from brass or aluminum sheet metal. Anyone know the meassures?

Greg Cothern · November 10, 2009, 05:45:32 AM

Send me your mailing address and I will send ya some shims. Remind me again where your located? If you close I will help ya.

Also pick up from MacTools the carb "D" shaped jet tool to adjust the pilot jets.

hootmon · November 10, 2009, 07:26:05 AM

"If you close I will help ya."

Yeah Greg... You need a vacation..
Take the wife!!!

go help Cannon!!!

Maybe he has a 2nd bike and you can go for a nice bike ride!!! Although this may not be the best time of year!!

Cannon - 1 thing to Greg's instructions.. They state to push on the needle to remove.. This could damage the needle, which I know you do not want to do.. what I found best is you can take one of the screws you removed to get to the needle, you can thread that right into the backside of the needle and pull the needle out. This is what is recommended in the manual for the needle extraction..

TLRam1 · November 10, 2009, 01:18:43 PM

Hoot, ya beat me to it! Put wings on the Valk and fly away.

Sledge Hammer · November 10, 2009, 10:01:03 PM

Quote from: hootmon on November 10, 2009, 07:26:05 AM
"If you close I will help ya."

Yeah Greg... You need a vacation..
Take the wife!!!

go help Cannon!!!

Maybe he has a 2nd bike and you can go for a nice bike ride!!! Although this may not be the best time of year!!

Cannon - 1 thing to Greg's instructions.. They state to push on the needle to remove.. This could damage the needle, which I know you do not want to do.. what I found best is you can take one of the screws you removed to get to the needle, you can thread that right into the backside of the needle and pull the needle out. This is what is recommended in the manual for the needle extraction..

If I ever get a chance to go ride in Norway, I'm going to jump on it! The scenery on Bikepics from that part of the world is spectacular.

Cannon · November 13, 2009, 06:09:39 AM

Quote from: Greg Cothern on November 10, 2009, 05:45:32 AM
Send me your mailing address and I will send ya some shims. Remind me again where your located? If you close I will help ya.

Also pick up from MacTools the carb "D" shaped jet tool to adjust the pilot jets.

This is fantastic! Sent you an email

Cannon · November 25, 2009, 01:50:43 PM

The carbs are off the bike

Exiting operation, but with the superb instuctions from the tips and tricks pages its not to bad.

One extra tip; a few drops of wd40 on top of the rubber boots made the removal process a lot easier.

The bowls are off, slow jets has been cleaned and i wonder why the main jets should not be cleaned?

Shim kit is ordered from DD, but I think I will have to check if the d-shaped tool for the pilot screws comes with the kit. Anyone who knows?
(I did not order the jet kit.)

Is there anything else that should be done once the carbs are off? Mileage is 30K miles.

Greg Cothern · November 25, 2009, 09:11:47 PM

No need to clean the main jets as they are large enough to NOT clog etc. The reason the smaller jets clog is they are small enough fuel will not flow out of them when left in the garage. The fuel still in the jet will dry and clog the jet.

Cannon · December 04, 2009, 07:38:22 AM

While waiting for parts from DD I'm doing a littel "research" on CV Carbs.

I found a lot of interesting reading on the subject. This one gives a good overview;
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5707560/description.html

I noticed the following;
"However, when the throttle is operated quickly or at near wide open conditions, the response of the slide (the lift rate) affects performance, fuel economy and emissions. The lift rate of the slide which is generally linear, is in turn related to the size (cross sectional area) of the holes in its lower surface. For good economy, the holes are kept small so that the slide responds slowly to the increase in volume of incoming air. While small holes provide good economy, the resulting slow lift rate provides poor performance in response to the throttle. For good performance, bigger holes or more holes are added, which allows the slide to lift quickly (i.e., provide more rapid vacuum effect in the interior of the slide for a faster lift). While larger holes provide good performance, the resulting rapid lift rate provides poor fuel economy and increased output of noxious emissions, such as carbon monoxide, particularly at low and mid range throttle conditions. "

Anyone with experience or ideas about increasing performance by enlarging the holes that provides the vacuum to the diaphragm? I have found descriptions on the same subject for increasing performance on HD bikes.

Greg Cothern · December 04, 2009, 03:53:56 PM

The Dyna-jet kits have you drill them, and my last Magna had them drilled. Good throttle response, but not sure its all do too the drilled slides.

Just be careful if you drill em as they can easily be cracked or tear the diaphragm.

Chad in Michigan · December 04, 2009, 10:01:01 PM

i've got great throttle response just from changing jets. not sure what your setup is, but it can be overcome with jetting and not drilling the slides. also, some of those kits come with different tapered needles and different spring rates to supposedly aid in lifting the slides faster.

Cannon · December 30, 2009, 01:39:25 PM

Hi again

Hope you all had a nice xmas.
Shims and d-tool arrived from DRP today. Carbs are cleaned and ready for shims.
Ambient temp here in Oslo is -15 degrees C. Went snowboarding today, celebrating newyears evening tomorrow and will do the carbs on newyears day. And then just wait 3 months for safe ridingconditions

Charles S Otwell · December 30, 2009, 02:22:24 PM

Are you planning on putting it back together and running it occasionally? I wouldn't leave the carbs or the tank dry for three months. Also, I would fill the carb bowls and check for leaks before I put the carb back on the bike, it really sucks to have to pull the carbs back off the bike over a gasket leak.
anyway good luck..

Cannon · January 02, 2010, 09:00:43 AM

Shims are in place and the carbs are ready to be put back on the bike. Tank is full, and thanks for the tip to test the gaskets before installing

The bike will be started up as soon as the carbs are back on, but I will have to wait for warmer weather. Too cold in the garage theese days

Cannon · January 05, 2010, 01:38:24 AM

Question when mounting the carbs back on the bike;

In the tips & tricks sectioon is says
"Next you will need to loosen the rubber boots (several turns you want them loose quite a bit) at the carbs don't loosen the bottom at the head intakes. Your are ready to pull the carbs off, but they are in the rubber boots pretty snug". This is what I did when I took them off.

In the description from DD, following the shims, It's described that the rubber boots should be loosend at the other end, at he head intakes. Which one is the better for putting the carbs back on again, pre-mounting the boots on the carbs or on the head intakes?