Jennifers Bike Issue

[Jennifer F]

That's nothing.  You should see the flasher fluid leak. I already changed the winter air in the tires and adjusted the seat belt. So I'm getting there!

I have a friend who will take a look at it next week as he is out of town this weekend. But since I want to know more than him, I will come here for advice!  ( I'm kidding. He is probably reading this now)

[Slydynbye]

Nice Bike Jennifer and Welcome

I looked at your pics and saw all the gas on the ground at the Station and wondered if maybe you had topped it of and overflowed a bit.  I know if I fill up and top off just before coming home I get a gas smell in the garage. How many miles did you ride after filling up?
I'm thinking the gas smell is only temporary and might have gone away by now.
Perhaps all it needs is a little more riding before putting it in the garage.

[lragan]

Slydnbye, I think maybe you missed this sentence from Jennifer's post:

"When I say the dipstick is wet, I mean that even before I remove it, that is the only place where I feel any kind of "leak".  And like I said, when I remove the dipstick, the level is way above the line and drips like water, not like oil and smells like gas."

It seems to me there are two problems:

1) The fuel shut-off valve isn't.

2) One or more carburetors are leaking.

Unless, of course, she somehow inadvertently came into possession of a "California model", with all the extra hoses, valves, voodoo, and other junk.  In that case, who knows what path from the gas tank to the crankcase may exist?

[Jennifer F]

Yes, I figured the spill on the ground might lead you to believe its just left over.  But I have run it about 50 miles since then, over a week's time.  And I have wiped it down quite well.  Also, a good portion of the spill on the ground was direct and never touched the bike.


Its going to rain much of the weekend, so I wont be as upset if I cant ride it.  But I want to get it ready by next weekend.

How much do you think it will cost to do the above repairs?

[hootmon]

Yes, I figured the spill on the ground might lead you to believe its just left over.  But I have run it about 50 miles since then, over a week's time.  And I have wiped it down quite well.  Also, a good portion of the spill on the ground was direct and never touched the bike.


Its going to rain much of the weekend, so I wont be as upset if I cant ride it.  But I want to get it ready by next weekend.

How much do you think it will cost to do the above repairs?

Again, I urge you NOT to ride the bike as is.. It sounds like your oil has been compromised by gasoline and will not lubricate your motor.. Deal with the issue(s), change the oil & filter, then ride to your hearts content!!!

[TLRam1]

How much do you think it will cost to do the above repairs?

Jennifer, the float valves probably run 20-25 each (need 4), say 100.00 and the shut off I would guess 40-50 dollars. We can supply (free!) shims for the carbs also to help it run better, if you want to replace the jets to 105 (5-6 dollars ea.) if not already done that would be beneficial while you are in there. The jets you can forgo and just do the shims if money is tight.

I would say 150.00 would get you covered, another 23 for Main Jets if you so desire, oil change would be 20.00. This is you are a group of yous doing this and no labor from the dealer of course. 

[TLRam1]

You have a good man in Lawrence willing to help and Allen if he separates himself from his Captain duties on his tugboat. If your friend can do this, that's great also or he can have Lawrence look over his shoulder if need be for advice and help is always welcome.

[hootmon]

How much do you think it will cost to do the above repairs?

Jennifer, the float valves probably run 20-25 each (need 4), say 100.00 

Here are some Float valves.. $38 with shipping.. I'll let you keep half of the difference of what Terry Quoted you!! 

Old Bike barn has them for $13.95 each plus shipping

cyclewareables has them for $9.00 each plus shipping look for CW18-4761KL


Here is a fuel Petcock for 38.00 with shipping on e-bay..

I'm not necessarily recommending any of these, just giving you an idea of actual prices you might get the parts for..

You can also get the fuel Petcock from BikeBandit.com or HondaDirect.com, but it will probably be more $$$ but new..

Hope it helps

[Charles S Otwell]

Jennifer said the bike ran good after she fueled it up, since the bike set for a while isn't it possible that an oil change, Sea Foam run thru the next couple tanks that the floats and needle seats could clean up. Jennifer did you notice the oil level when you first got the bike, I guess I'm asking if this could have happened prior to your purchase. If the bike runs good after you change oil and filter you could ride and use your petcock to shut off the fuel when your stopped until your sure whether you still have a problem or not. A little trash could have kept the needle from seating during the time it was setting. It's not always neccessary to start with the worse case scenario, or the most expensive repair.

[Chad in Michigan]

I think her vacuum diaphram could be torn, allowing fuel to seep from the fuel side to the vacuum side, draining down the vacuum tube and flood the cylender. If there were an obstruction holding one of the needles open, the vacuum shutoff would have to fail, not in the way I described, but fail open, and let fuel in that way and have a needle stuck. that's two problems that would have to happen to make a stuck needle leak that much gas. I've never heard of one failing open except for the other post about the fuel diaphram, but i think that is a blockage in the vacuum line or port somehow, or the return spring is too weak to force the valve closed.

[hootmon]

If the bike runs good after you change oil and filter you could ride and use your petcock to shut off the fuel when your stopped until your sure whether you still have a problem or not.

It is possible, but it will cost you an oil change to find out.. IF the problem still exists, then the oil will get contaminated again.. (It may cost you an oil change anywayz after you replace some parts to see if the problems still exists..
My concern is riding very far with contaminated/diluted oil and the damage that might happen to bearings in the process.. You could just drain some of the existing oil out to a known level on the dip stick and let it sit a couple of days and see if it still rises.. In the process the level in the tank should drop an associated amount..

My 2 cents..

[TLRam1]

If Jennifer were a tinkerer and knew how to work on her own bike I could see a person taking the time and determining a little problem solving. As noted she will need help and if someone else is doing this for her or helping, I figure it's best to fix it right the first time with not a lot of cost in the overall picture and it's done, she will not have to find someone to go back in there and no worries on her part, she just Rides!

Hoot, I did guess at the OEM from Honda, she did not need a new petcock, but a fuel shut-off, again better to go new and do it right the first time. She is not one of us who can go back in easily to swap it out and may not have the tools.

[Jennifer F]

My friend is back from Dallas after dealing with this....

Hopefully we can work on my bike since he is back in one piece!

[roboto65]

I see the Magna in the garage his outside well at least you have your priorities straight 

[Cannon]

I think her vacuum diaphram could be torn, allowing fuel to seep from the fuel side to the vacuum side, draining down the vacuum tube and flood the cylender.

If this was the case, fuel would be dripping from the vent-hole between the two diaphragms, AND both diaphragms would have to be torn.
Jennifers issue could be caused by the same problem that I discovered with my vacuum valve, combined with one or more failing float valves. There is a recent thread discussing the vacuum valve no-closing problem on the forum.