Facory pro shift kit

gargoyleddriver · June 12, 2010, 04:24:46 PM

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh23.html I did a search and didnt find any info in the forum, so anybody upgraded to this? I get alot of nuetral shifts when Im getting on the fuel going from first to second and its getting pretty annoying. Or is there something I should adjust? 99 magna 35,000 on the clock and sythetic oil

Chad in Michigan · June 12, 2010, 05:08:56 PM

I did

I have since sold the bike but I loved it and it was worth the time and effort to do it. make sure to adjust your shifter linkage too, the 8mm bolt at the rear of the linkage can get loose and make it sloppy. when you order it, don't be afraid that they sent you a different one than is shown in the picutre. it shows H23, but you get the same one as the VFR and it works fine. Pay close attention to EVERYTHING under the shifter cover. the thing that got me was there are two little springs and two little metal pieces ontop of each spring that go inside the shift star. they will assemble either way, but when you get it together, somehting may be wrong. make sure to hold them when taking them out, the springs will let them fly, and without them you won't be able to shift. i dropped mine at least 10 times before getting them to stay where i wanted them to. there is also a spring and a washer that have to go back in exactly as you see them. i will see if i can dig up some pics. this is a job that would definately be better if you had a lift to work on, as i was crawling around on my stomach trying to get a good view of everything.

Chad in Michigan · June 12, 2010, 05:12:25 PM

these pics are from a VFR, not my magna. things look pretty similar inside there though.

Edit: this is the H42 that you will receive. the kit also comes with the gasket you need, so no need to order one.

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LIMagna · June 13, 2010, 07:20:21 PM

Thanks for the pictures and info Chad. I think I just found a project for next winter

Chad in Michigan · June 13, 2010, 07:32:02 PM

The shift star kit includes that piece to the right as well. It is a roller bearing arm that rides on the shift star which makes it easier to shift too. It also comes with a heavier spring to keep it all nice and tight. You'll like it

LIMagna · June 13, 2010, 07:46:23 PM

Mine shifts pretty well but I do hit neutral on occasion when going to second. I usually blame myself for not positively engaging the gear (the old wimpy upshfit) but who knows. This seems like a reasonably priced mod and if it really improves shifting, it should definitely be worth it. How much work is involved to get at these parts?

hootmon · June 13, 2010, 08:16:48 PM

It looks like you have to pull the Water Pump to perform this work.
I would suggest that you replaced the O-Ring that is on the back side of the Water pump that meets up with the case.
This is where I sprung an oil leak and I had to replace it. SO, while you're in there it is a good preventive maintenance item to perform..

Chad in Michigan · June 13, 2010, 09:23:59 PM

Quote from: hootmon on June 13, 2010, 08:16:48 PM
It looks like you have to pull the Water Pump to perform this work.
I would suggest that you replaced the O-Ring that is on the back side of the Water pump that meets up with the case.
This is where I sprung an oil leak and I had to replace it. SO, while you're in there it is a good preventive maintenance item to perform..

good idea. I did this as well as tearing the water pump in half and replacing the seal between the water pump halves. It's also a good time to replace the seals in that area like the shifter shaft seal and there a few others. I replaced all seals since I was in there.

Chad in Michigan · June 13, 2010, 09:30:23 PM

Quote from: LIMagna on June 13, 2010, 07:46:23 PM
Mine shifts pretty well but I do hit neutral on occasion when going to second. I usually blame myself for not positively engaging the gear (the old wimpy upshfit) but who knows. This seems like a reasonably priced mod and if it really improves shifting, it should definitely be worth it. How much work is involved to get at these parts?

your shifter throw will be less as well. The amount of travel and input required to shift will be reduced. After the kit, i still had a few missed shifts, but it was my technique and shoe choices that were my downfall. I also installed a shim on the bolt that holds the shifter in place to take the remaining slop out of the shifter. It would move left to right causing more slop and effort to shift. I replaced the bolt and seals first just to make sure that the slop was not that stuff. It seems to be a factory issue. Just make sure the bolt that holds the linkage to the shift shaft is tight. This bolt will have to be removed to take the linkage off too.

LIMagna · June 14, 2010, 06:49:35 AM

Thanks for all the tips guys. Seems to be a bit more involved than I thought but certainly doable over the winter.

hootmon · June 14, 2010, 08:11:25 AM

Quote from: LIMagna on June 14, 2010, 06:49:35 AM
Thanks for all the tips guys. Seems to be a bit more involved than I thought but certainly doable over the winter.

Getting to the waterpump was not a bad job at all.. But hint.. Before you start, take off the front sprocket cover and have engine degreaser and a brush and a hose.. clean the area up well before you get started and you should have a much cleaner job on your hands..

gargoyleddriver · June 14, 2010, 07:19:08 PM

Yup another thing on my list to do to my magna.

hootmon · June 14, 2010, 07:54:50 PM

Quote from: gargoyleddriver on June 14, 2010, 07:19:08 PM
Yup another thing on my list to do to my magna.

AND of course, IF you have to pull the water Pump, you will be replacing the radiator fluid..
Honda does NOT recommend regular AF due to the fact that it has a Silicate in it that can be abrasive... I'm not saying you HAVE to follow their advice, I'm just quoting them..

Chad in Michigan · June 14, 2010, 08:15:30 PM

You don't have to drain the radiator fluid if your not separating the water pump. You will have to drain the oil, because when you pull the water pump out of the way oil will come out of that hole. The water pump is driven by the oil pump and the hole is at a low spot. You can remove the water pump by removing the two long screws in the water pump area. There are two shorter bolts that hold the water pump from coming apart after you remove the other two. if you need more wiggle room, You can pivot the the left front chrome tube that connects to the pump by removing the bolt that secures the tube to the motor and twist it toward you. You may need a rubber mallet to move it. If it needs to come out or falls out, you're not going to loose a ton if fluid. I've done if both ways, draining the coolant and just pivoting the tube.