'86' V65 Magna build

[ToolBoxPop]

the other three cylinders were around 160-170 psi and the left front was only 90.  I put a splash of oil in each one I tested.  I'm curious though, in order for the valves to be not shutting does that mean the timing has jumped off track?  In either instance, whether the valves are just out of alignment or the timing is off, is it possible that changing carbs can cause that?  Or maybe the backfires it was doing threw it off?  I get confused about the mechanics of how valves and/or timing actually get thrown off.

[hootmon]

All the valves actions are caused by the rotation of the cams. The cam(s) are all chained together and driven off the crankshaft.
So, the timing being off on one cylinder is likely not to happen.. More apt to be things like a weak or broken return spring, valve bent, excessive build up of carbon on the valve preventing it from sliding through the valve guide, etc..

I'd wait for other responses, but it sounds like you are going to have to at least pull the valve cover and see what you can see is happening with the valves for that cylinder.. IF it's a broken spring, you might be able to replace it, If it is something with the valve itself, the head will likely have to be removed.

You actions with the carbs shouldn't have had anything to do with this.. More likely coincidence

[ToolBoxPop]

Hootmon, thanks for clearing that up!  I'm getting ready to pull the radiator off and start digging into the front valve cover.  Funny how all of this trouble I'm having started with a simple fuel shut off relay.  Then suddenly all the other parts wanted the attention lol.  I know the squeaky wheel gets the grease, but it sure does suck when I have so many squeaky wheels on one bike.

[ToolBoxPop]

Well, I got the valve covers off and I was hoping to find the left front valves just way out of wack or a broken spring or something that would justify the problems i've been having.  It's not what I found though.  Everything is so clean and brand new looking.  The rocker arms, lobes, tops of the valves and springs all look pristine.  The valves on the left front cylinder were, though, the only valves that were barely tight.  And I mean BARELY tight.  The book calls for .006 and they were at like .004 - .005.  Could these motors be that touchy do you think?

The other thing is, I've had the fuel turned to off on the aux tank all night.  There is still fuel dripping out about 1 drip every four seconds out of the carbs.  It appears that it is coming out of the upper inside of the left front carb at the bowl gasket and running down and dripping off of the rubber intake boot right down onto that hard tube going into the crankcase.  Now with the plugs out, valve covers off and the fuel shut to off I'm once again baffled about this leak.  I just want to ENJOY THIS BIKE lol.

[lragan]

Toolbox, I sense your frustration.  Wish I could be there to help, but that dog won't hunt.

I have never worked on the first gen Magnas, but, on one of my '96 models, moving the fuel valve to "off" (as opposed to "run" or "reserve") still leaves gasoline coming out of the tank.  When I take the tank off to get to the top of the engine, I have to stand it on its' nose to prevent all the fuel from running out on the floor.  In fewer words, the valve doesn't work right.  I live with it.  You may or may not have a similar issue, I don't know.

I presume when you turn the engine over, you can see the valves on your inoperative cylinder moving freely in the guides?  Springs seated properly?  As for valve clearance, if the book calls for .006 and you only have 2/3 that amount, those valves may not be closing tight enough to allow full compression.  I would certainly reset them, then check the compression again.  Depending on how long the engine has run in this condition, you may have burned a valve and/or seat.  Not what you want to read, I am sure.  Here's hoping...

[ToolBoxPop]

Iragan, I think you may have hit the nail on the head I'm afraid.  I just reset all the valves and put the bike back together.  I found out that the fuel leak is something totally random.  It's coming from the #2 carb where the fuel rail feeds the #4 carb, ugh.  Everything moves really well under the valve cover and I was really hoping for a big difference after resetting the valves.  I went ahead and only connected the #2 spark plug wire (the problem cylinder) and left the other wires hanging.  I cranked the bike over and it spit and sputtered, trying to only run  on one cylinder.  So I know that it's getting fuel, and enough compression to actually light off.  I thought that was a good sign.  I connected everything up and took it for a little spin.  The thing can pull it's front tire straight off the ground while it's peeling out, but on decel it backfires and revs high a little out of control.  It still hesitates on normal takeoffs.  I let it idle for about another 10 minutes and then checked the exhaust pipe temps.  #1,3,4 all hang out around 240 deg.  but the dang #2 is only 115.  So I think you may be right with the burnt valve theory.  Maybe a piece of one of the #2 valves has been ate up to the point where it's not sealing all the way shut.  What a bummer.

On the other hand, I'm thoroughly impressed with the ridiculous power this bike has only hitting on 3 cylinders.  I just simply cannot wait to get it running right and feel how powerful it is then.  I'll be anxious to hit that 10 sec. 1/4 mile!  Like Iragan said, "Here's hoping..."

[Greg Cothern]

What is the new compression reading on the cylinders since you did the valkve adjsutments?? 

The fuel rail running from one side to the other has o-rings and probably needs to be replaced..

[ToolBoxPop]

I was borrowing a compression gauge from a friend, and I had to return it, so, now that I need it most, I dont have one.  I was just looking at the manual and it looks like there are only 4 valves all together?  If the front two cylinders share valves, then wouldn't a burnt valve effect both sides and not just the left... ?

[ToolBoxPop]

I've been looking at the shop manual, and I've realized that there are 4 valves per cylinder lol.  The picture they have only shows two per head.  I was really confused for a minute:P

[dgc67]

It's coming from the #2 carb where the fuel rail feeds the #4 carb, ug

sounds like an '0' ring on the tube.  Easy fix other than having to pull the carbs yet again.  be really careful with those tubes they are irreplaceable and crack easy due to age making them brittle.

ave never worked on the first gen Magnas, but, on one of my '96 models, moving the fuel valve to "off" (as opposed to "run" or "reserve") still leaves gasoline coming out of the tank. 

Since the first gen bikes have fuel pumps this is not an issue, in fact turning the fuel off is really only needed if you are removing a fuel line between the aux. tank and the fuel pump.

It sucks and is a blessing that these things are happening.  Better that you discovered it now than later when things could be worse off.
Sounds like you are doing a good job and getting where you need to be!

[hootmon]

As a side conversation (not helpful to ToolBox)..

Even IF the valve gap was .001, that would mean that the valve is seating as far as it will seat, correct??

Adjusting from .003 to .006 should not make any difference on compression, at least at slow starter turnover speed..

Whether you have .001 or .100 gap the valve is as fully seated as it is going to get..
Am I missing something in this thought process???

[ToolBoxPop]

Hootmon, I agree with what you're saying.  Any gap at all at Top Dead Center between the rocker and the top of the valve means that the spring has pulled the valve all the way up closing it off inside the cylinder.   If it's a burnt up valve tho like Iragan had mentioned, even pulled all the way up, the valve may still be allowing compression to escape through a damaged portion.  At times, I wish I had one of those clear plastic working motor models to watch every little piece as it moves when the motor rotates lol. 

DG, Ya I suppose it's better for these little gremlins to show their ugly faces while it's still here in the driveway than out on a long trip far from home, but it sure is frusterating nontheless.  I've heard so many people brag about the amount fun a V65 is, and I just haven't been able to reach that point yet, grr.

[hootmon]

Hootmon,  At times, I wish I had one of those clear plastic working motor models to watch every little piece as it moves when the motor rotates lol. 

Thru the miracle of the internet.. Video

[lragan]

As a side conversation (not helpful to ToolBox)..

Even IF the valve gap was .001, that would mean that the valve is seating as far as it will seat, correct??

Adjusting from .003 to .006 should not make any difference on compression, at least at slow starter turnover speed..

Whether you have .001 or .100 gap the valve is as fully seated as it is going to get..
Am I missing something in this thought process???

Hoot, you are right, at low speeds it should not make a difference -- if the valve seat is perfect, the valve is perfect, the guides aren't worn so it seats all the way around, etc.  Since this never happens, the clearance will make a difference at some level -- I don't know if it is .001, or .0001, or .003.  Depends on initial tolerance, wear, etc.  Certainly at speed it will make a difference, due to the dynamics of the metals and the gasses.

[hootmon]

I don't know if it is .001, or .0001, or .003.  Depends on initial tolerance, wear, etc.  Certainly at speed it will make a difference, due to the dynamics of the metals and the gasses.

And Valve float due to lack of Spring tension..