'86' V65 Magna build

[ToolBoxPop]

Thanks, Reaper, for the pics and info.  I have taken the float valve out on mine, which also has a screen around it and it all seems to be clean as a whistle.  I've taken off the slow and fast jets and they also are very clean, but I couldn't get the starter jet to spin off.  I was afraid to really squeeze on it with pliers or anything so I just left it.  I can't say for sure if it was clogged or not,  I'd think that only effects idle rpm's though correct?

[reaperkeeper]

Toolboxpop
OK, its clean, thats great but not what we need to be concerned with at this point.  Refer back to the pic of the valve in the guys hand, see the pointed end that looks black, that is the seal surface, the black stuff is some sort of hard rubber, it can crack and or get a grove/ring  in it from the "seat (the other side of the valve up in the carb body).  If this happens it allows fuel to continue to flow into the bowl when it should not.  Once the bowl is over full guess where the extra fuels goes......RIGHT!  Into the cylinder! you get a fowled plug that looks wet/dark and smells like fuel.....sound familiar? (please don't take any of this the wrong way, I try and write with humor sometiemes it doesn't coma across correctly) You should ask yourself this question, is it worth it to me to pull the carbs....yet again... to check this.   If you say yes I want to help, and the best way I can do that long distance is by phone and camera.  If you pull your carbs again  I would like you to photograph things as you go, and I will be on the phone with you at the time, and look at the pic's as you go so we get it fixed.
Balls in your court.
No hurry on my end, I'm not going anywhere. 

Robert.

[ToolBoxPop]

I'm never one to back down from a good dissasembly lol.  The only part I hate about taking the carbs out is that dang air box top, but I can get the carbs off in about 15 minutes.  I might wait untill Friday evening when I don't have to rely on it for a work ride.  I wonder if I can just pull the bowl off, still on the bike, and remove the float and use the float valve by hand to see if it's able to shut the fuel flow off.  I'd have to run a couple fuel hoses off of the jets to catch the gas.  If I can apply a minimal amount of pressure to that valve in an attempt to mimic the actual float level, it should give me a yay or nay on that seal.  Thanks, again, for your help.  It's much appreciated!

[reaperkeeper]

Yea, the air box top is are PITA to get out, but it does come out one side much easer than the other, I just cant remember which side that is....wait...the manual, do you have the Honda maintenance manual?  
check here if you dont -->  http://thepit.shacknet.nu/honda/index.php

[Greg Cothern]

I would bet that the needle seats need to be changed. 

Make sure the airbox is sealed properly as this can make them run not right.  ALL Magna's DO NOT like an airbox that has been altered or not sealed.

[ToolBoxPop]

Hey Reaper, do you still have a good running V65?  If you do, do you have the means to take the temp of each exhaust pipe at normal operating temp?  I'm really wondering if the different jet sizes in each carb is the reason for the differences in exhaust temp.  Oh ya, here's the latest change to the bike.  I bent up a piece of 3/32, 301 stainless steel and polished it for a a decent windshield.

Oops.  I tried to link three pics from my Facebook, but apparently I have no idea what I'm doing on this here think-box.  I can't figure out how to save the picture and link it lol.

[reaperkeeper]

Yea, I drive mine daily, just put a new rear tire on it and did my annual service, I'm ready to ride all summer long. My son has a temp gun for his Bearded Dragons to measure the cage temp, I will see if it will do the job. the tricky part will be getting a good reading on the rear pipes since they have a heat shield on them, but I will try.

after getting home from work (riding the bike) I let it idle for 3-4 minutes.
front pipes both at 250-260
rear pipes both at 300-310
I attribute the higher temps due to the lack of cooling air around the rear pipes.

[ToolBoxPop]

Well, Reaper, now I want to drive my bike straight into a dumpster now.  Your bike is emiculate!  My bike looks like a heap of crap compared to yours *cry*  I'm incredibly jealous.

[reaperkeeper]

Well it does have the title of "money pit" so don't be hard on your self, but thank you, I did and still do work very hard on it.

[ToolBoxPop]

Here's those pictures I tried to post before.  That shield really helps cut down the torso beating I was taking from the wind before I made it.

[reaperkeeper]

Hey Pop, there is nothing wrong with the way your Magna looks, actually I like it!  The shape of your shield looks very similar to the one I (and allot of other Magna riders) use and it looks like you did a great job on it.  You will like the pressure it takes off your chest but still allows air around your head. 
Any new news on the #2 cylinder problem?

[dgc67]

I like it.

[ToolBoxPop]

Well thanks guys!  That shield surely does help with the chest wind but, your right, it still beats my head up a bit.  My #2 still runs much cooler than my #4, which is running far cooler than the back two.  I know that there is still something off, I just can't figure out what it is.  I took it to my doc visit today which was a total of 250 miles.  I ran it around 80 on the highway for most the trip.  It's running so good compared to what it was when I first got it.  I do, though, still have the constant low rpm chuffing/backfire going on.  And anytime I'm climbing into the throttle it jumps pretty strong off the line and pulls hard to about 6500 rpm, then it does this lunging thing where it feels like it free's up and slings foward briefly then is restricted, then free's up, then restricted, over and over all the way to 10k or when I shift.  Once I've shifted, it leaps and lunges foward a few times for only a few seconds then pulls hard to 6500 again and starts it's jumping foward thing over again.  It's like it's trying really hard to slingshot foward but something is intermittenly keeping it from doing so.  I still have strong compression(190 or so) in all cylinders, and now have new dynatech coils and new NGK plugs and wires.  I now have $3,000 into it(buying cost included) and would like to not dump anymore into it with "replacement troubleshooting" lol.  I really think it's something I'm not adjusting right.

[reaperkeeper]

Well I totally understand not wanting to spend any more on parts till you figure out whats going on, and guess what, I'm not going to suggest you change anything. When you are ready to take this on again my advice has not changed from earlier, you need to check some things in your carbs starting with the float valves/needle & seats (same part different names) and then there are the emulsion tubes and the diaphragm needles and the diaphragm springs to check.  I sent my phone number in a PM the other day, when you are ready to look at this stuff, give me a call, until then - ENJOY THE RIDE!!!   

[dgc67]

which is running far cooler than the back two.

This is normal.  The back two just don't have the air circulation, especially around the exhaust, to keep them as cool.  This is why the rear carbs are jetted richer than the front.