Switching from oil to synthetic oil

ripster31 · December 05, 2013, 05:49:47 PM

I am about to switch to synthetic oil in my 1966 Honda VF750c Magna. I am going to run 10w-40 synthetic due I live in Louisiana and the weather sometimes is 95 one day and 35 the next. I was told that I couldn't just switch and run as normal but I needed to do an oil change with the synthetic, then run 500 miles with the synthetic, then do another complete oil change to make sure all the non-synthetic oil is out of it and the residue. I use seafoam on my oil changes so I know that will help, but please let me know what is the proper way to change to synthetic oil. Also, is 10w-40 the right way to go with my climate. I ride both warm and cold months lol. I know the super stars will knock it out the park like they always do. Magna lover and moot supporter for life.

Jerry G Turner · December 05, 2013, 06:51:57 PM

All you have to do is switch it won't hurt a thing as long as it doesn't have friction reducers in it as many car oils . Frictions reducers don't work well in motorcycles that have there clutch bathed in oil as does the magna. If you use a motorcycle synthetic oil no problem just switch it and ride on it cost more but it last longer.

ripster31 · December 05, 2013, 07:25:39 PM

so upon the switch over I don't have to drain it after 500 miles to remove the remnant of the regular oil. just fill with synthetic and ride on. thanks. Will be using either Valvoline 10w-40 or Mobile 1 10w-40. Not sure what synthetic I want to run yet.

Jerry G Turner · December 05, 2013, 08:08:51 PM

Synthetic and regular oils are completely compatible

hootmon · December 05, 2013, 10:07:52 PM

They sell Semi-synthetic oils (part oil, part synthetic) SO, there is not special procedure...
Then only possible draw back is with an older bike, you MAY find a new leak at a gasket or o-ring... Synthetic will seep past areas that conventional oil will not...
Not an issue, it would have eventually leaked anyways, just sooner with the synthetic...

Friction modifiers are Zinc additives.. Very important you make sure the oil does not say Friction modifiers on the bottle...

I've run both Mobile 1 and Valvoline motorcycle oil in my bike with no issues. I believe Amsoil M/C oil is better than both in a bike, but can be harder to purchase and cost a bit more. Is it different enough?? That's an individual call...

ripster31 · December 06, 2013, 07:07:49 AM

Thanks for the updates. I feel more comfortable changing over now.

LIMagna · December 06, 2013, 02:34:39 PM

Get whatever is easily available to you and reasonably priced. A very popular choice is Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. It's a 5w-40 and is JASO rated for use in wet-clutch motorcycles. It covers all the bases as it flows like a 5 weight oil when cold but protects like a 40 weight when at operating temperature. The really nice thing about it is that it's usually available for around $22 a gallon at your local Walmart. I picked up two gallons earlier this Fall when Shell was running a $5 rebate on the purchase. They may still offer that so look for the rebate tag on the container if you decide to give it a try.

guywheatley · December 06, 2013, 02:55:11 PM

Synthetic oil! uh uh uh! Somehow that just don't seem natural.

Lurkin · December 06, 2013, 03:11:00 PM

The term you don't want to see is "Energy Conserving" in that little circle/star burst thing on the back label. That means more zinc then you need and your wet clutch will dislike you,,,, alot.

lragan · December 06, 2013, 03:58:14 PM

Long ago, in a galaxy far, far away... I think I remember reading that synthetic oils are intolerant of very high temperatures. The point was if the temperature gauge goes up or (more recently) the idiot light goes on, one should pull over immediately and cool the engine to avoid a sticky mess and ruined engine.

Was I misinformed on this point?

Lurkin · December 09, 2013, 10:15:51 AM

I don't recall anything to that effect. My understanding is the synths have better high temp properties then dino, but what I don't know is if the failure mode is more brick wall then gentle slope, i.e., does synth just turn into a gelatinous mass of tar at a certain point, or does it fail slowly and just get tar-like gradually.

ripster31 · December 10, 2013, 10:05:00 PM

Quote from: LIMagna on December 06, 2013, 02:34:39 PM
Get whatever is easily available to you and reasonably priced. A very popular choice is Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. It's a 5w-40 and is JASO rated for use in wet-clutch motorcycles. It covers all the bases as it flows like a 5 weight oil when cold but protects like a 40 weight when at operating temperature. The really nice thing about it is that it's usually available for around $22 a gallon at your local Walmart. I picked up two gallons earlier this Fall when Shell was running a $5 rebate on the purchase. They may still offer that so look for the rebate tag on the container if you decide to give it a try.

My only thing with rotella is I live in Louisiana and Im wondering if I can run it year round and will it protect me up to 100 degrees if it gets that hot outside, or do I need to use rotella in winter and 10w-40 in summer.

Jerry G Turner · December 11, 2013, 05:08:08 AM

I live in Texas we know about hot. Rotella has worked well for me.

LIMagna · December 11, 2013, 06:55:48 AM

Besides, they're both 40 weight oils when at operating temperature (5w-40 & 10w-40) ... it's only when the oil is cold that there is a difference. If anything, the 5w will flow a little better when you first hit the starter to help reduce wear. You should be able to safely run T6 year round.

ripster31 · December 11, 2013, 12:08:26 PM

Thank you both. I will be making the switch out.