Progressive Springs & Front Fork Seals for 3rd Gen

[lragan]

After Ken let me watch him replace the seals in his 1st gen last Saturday, I have caught the bug to install Progressive springs.  Found some on-line for ~$52 + shipping. 

It makes sense to me to replace the seals and dust covers in the process, and I searched for those, too.  Hoooboy!   Too many choices.

I did a forum search and saw one recommendation for OEM parts.  My forks are not leaking after 36K miles on my '96, so maybe this is the way to go.

What have you guys used, how have they worked out, where did you get 'em, and about what did you have to pay for 'em?

I notice from the shop manual a few differences from the early models to the 3rd gen:

1) My manual does not show a Schroeder valve for inserting air.
2) It appears the large snap ring (which sent us searching for the proper snap ring pliers) has been replaced with a bent wire widget of some sort.  How does one remove this?

Are there other differences I need to know about?

As always, thanks for your help and advice.  I intend to gather this stuff in anticipation of a spring wrench session at my place or some other Central Texas location.

[roboto65]

I did mine when I had the front legs chromed not bad that ring came out with a small screwdriver and there is no air pressure to add to the forks you will need the driver to drive the seal after the job. PVC the right size works or spend the money on the tool  would like one but $$$ 60 bucks for just that one size 42mm if I am not mistaken. Got my parts from Honda Parts Direct.

[Jerry G Turner]

we have done several at wrench sessions don't waste your money on the tool pvc cut in half works great and we got the wire ring out with a screw driver no problem.

[Slydynbye]

I did the Progressive springs and added 15w fork oil Ugh! too stiff I'd go with 10 or 7.5w if I were you.

[L J VFR]

I did mine when I had the front legs chromed not bad that ring came out with a small screwdriver and there is no air pressure to add to the forks you will need the driver to drive the seal after the job. PVC the right size works or spend the money on the tool  would like one but $$$ 60 bucks for just that one size 42mm if I am not mistaken. Got my parts from Honda Parts Direct.

Allen, how much did it cost you to get your front legs chromed?    And where did you get this done?  Thanks..

[lragan]

I did the Progressive springs and added 15w fork oil Ugh! too stiff I'd go with 10 or 7.5w if I were you.

Yeah, the shop manual calls for "fork fluid".  Is this some magic stuff you are supposed to buy from Honda?  Ken's early model bike called for "ATF".  He explained to me that it did NOT mean "Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms" but "Automatic Transmission Fluid".

I have lots of hydraulic oil on hand for my tractor, would this work?  Does anyone know what "fork fluid" really is?

[dgc67]

I used Bel-Ray fork OIL, but the manual calls for Dexron ATF.  I think the important factor here is viscocity.  I used the 5w in my stock set up.
Oh, and Bel-Ray is real PROUD of the fork oil.  I guess since it is not something you do not have to buy all that often it aint cheap.

[roboto65]

Any Chromer will do it I think it was about 75$ a leg give or take but I did have other stuff to chrome and that brings the price down. They did not do a good job so they ended up doing a set of pipes for me but had to wait forever for them... Greg has them on the yellow project.

[Slydynbye]

Any Chromer will do it I think it was about 75$ a leg give or take but I did have other stuff to chrome and that brings the price down. They did not do a good job so they ended up doing a set of pipes for me but had to wait forever for them... Greg has them on the yellow project.

I was wondering if there was a special prep exercise before sending the anything off to the Chromer.
Like a lot of things is it all in the prep to get a good job? I called a Chrome shop and all the guy said was "Bring it we'll chrome it"

[roboto65]

No real prep on your part because he is going to sand, acid dip and other nasty stuff before he polishs it to a shine almost like chrome before he chromes it the suface has to be near perfect as chrome is just like a paint job except there is no primer to fill the holes  so they have to polish it first  This is why chrome cost so much it is the prep it has to go thru!!!

[Greg Cothern]

If ya just want to upgrade to progressives then you will not require getting into the forks for seals etc, if you do not wish too mess with them yet..

10wt is about the best compromise in my opinion, not too harsh yet enough hydraulic property...

[dgc67]

Lawrence,
Greg has a good point.  Unless you just WANT to mess with the seals you don't have to.  You can change the springs without even removing the forks.  I think, but don't recommend, you could even do it without changing the fork oil.
You take the caps off the top and slide the springs out. 

I think I read something on here about spacers on the 3rd gen??

[lragan]

You guys have a very good point.  Why fix stuff that ain't broke? 

If one did not replace the fork oil, is there an effective method for checking the levels?

It appears from looking at the bike and the manuals that one could simply put the bike on a lift to unload the front suspension, remove the caps at the top, fish out the spacers and springs, and pop in the new springs and spacers -- Terry went the full length of 5.5 inches of 1 in. PVC pipe, and likes it.  What have others done?  I have some of the high temp PVC, which is slightly yellow, and a bit more brittle than the cold water type.  Which do you guys use?

Probably worth the time to drain the oil from the bottoms and replace it with new.  Absent a method of measuring the level, the only way to make sure it is right.  What do you think?

[roboto65]

A piece of wire as a dip stick measure and put a mark where the level should be and there ya go another great use for the wifes coathangers  And some schedule 80 PVC should be good and if you have ordered the springs they come with the PVC already to be cut by you

[Greg Cothern]

I would replace the fork oil, simply cause if there is any bushing issues you will see it in the oil and allow you to make a good determination of the health of your forks...